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Jake's '87 Conquest Build Thread


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#81 CaptainSlow

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Posted 09 December 2018 - 02:00 AM

View PostTexasQuest, on 08 December 2018 - 11:25 PM, said:

If you have the money I'd highly suggest getting a new non-jet valve head from here: http://enginemachine...linderheads.php

Trying to do this as cheap as I can, but if I do need a new head I'd definitely source it from him.


Worked on it today and got both manifolds off the motor. Exhaust manifold has a crack in it as well, gonna need to have that welded. I'll go into more detail with pics once I get it torn down all the way.





#82 CaptainSlow

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Posted 09 December 2018 - 10:16 PM

Lots of pics incoming. You've been warned.

TL;DR - Head is off. Noticed a few other issues as well.

Started off by cleaning up the area around the car and optimizing everything so I can easily find tools and organize parts. Pain in the tail now but will probably save my life later.
Before I start -
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Removed air intake, intercooler piping and stuff generally in the way.
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Figured while I was here it'd be the perfect opportunity to re-tape and clean up this wiring mess. This is just the MAF harness but the intake manifold has a completely butchered harness that I will tend to later.
Yes the actual clip is broken but it still connects, I'll get another if I can source one.
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Exhaust manifold is off. Wasn't too hard, some of the nuts were hard to get to and most of them removed the stud from the head but it came off relatively easily.
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Surprise surprise, it's cracked. Doesn't seem bad (never noticed a leak), but I'll have it welded anyway and get this thing cleaned up. Maybe a coat of some high-temp paint.
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Next on to the intake manifold. This thing is took complex for it's own good. Rip that crap off.
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And it's off. It's complex but still pretty straightforward to remove. Just made sure to label things. I did have to contort my body in unhealthy ways to get some of those nuts off though.
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After that, I called it a night on Saturday. Got back into it today (Sunday).


Fresh start Sunday, got the valve cover off. Only about a gallon of dried RTV was used to seal it.
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Cam off.
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The cam has seen better days. Might try and source a new one.
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Head off. Block and cylinders look good to my inexperienced eye. Gave everything a scrape and wipe down with brake cleaner to remove any gasket material and excess gunk. Head gasket looked fine but I'll be getting a gasket kit anyway.
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A little carbon-y but overall looks good. No cracks that I could find. Bonus knee shot. Please no requests for nudes.
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Cart-o-parts
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I'd consider it a success for now, especially since this is by far the most in-depth engine work I've ever done. Just need to contact a machine shop to have the head measured and machined.
While I've got it torn apart I'll clean some stuff up. Going to re-do some wiring and paint some parts. I might over-do it. I have a tendency to do that.

Will update soon. ;)

#83 croquest87

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Posted 10 December 2018 - 11:22 AM

Cool man  keep up w good work.

#84 mbruneaux

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 06:48 PM

Keep it going and post more pics!
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1989 Chrysler Conquest TSi (Project Race Car) Build thread http://www.starquest...opic=147910&hl=
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#85 tsi_tom

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 07:36 PM

View PostCaptainSlow, on 07 December 2018 - 11:26 PM, said:

I'm alive and am still in possession of the Conquest for now.

Full disclosure, I've been spending the past 2 months or so trying to sell the car as it is. However, nobody wants to buy a broken car so 99% of the people that contacted me flaked, ghosted or offered less than half of my asking price.
Only 1 guy was serious enough to actually see the car in person. Thankfully this guy in particular seemed to know what he was looking at, and told me the head is likely warped. He's been looking for one of these cars and had one with the same problem, only worse. Said the exhaust gasses are leaking into the head, causing back-pressure and not allowing it to rev. Oil smells like fuel and that also explains the blowby out of the oil cap despite good compression. Basically everything he told me made perfect sense. I know the aluminium heads on these tend to warp easily, and with the weak water pump I had before replacing it there's a chance a previous owner let it overheat bad enough to cause this.

I'll be starting the teardown this weekend. I need to fix it if I still want to sell it and not completely lose my money, and now that I have a (more) legitimate diag to go off of maybe I can do it. Never worked this far into a motor before but now's as good a time to start as any.

Good news is, I know a good machine shop that can hopefully machine it down for me, and if it's too far gone I know someone with a cheap motor that has a spun bearing but good head (apparently).

Wish me luck.

I would test the fuel pressure, send the injectors off for cleaning, and rebuild the distributor.  Also test the temperature sensor and check the connector to the temp sensor.
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#86 CaptainSlow

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 08:09 PM

View Posttsi_tom, on 22 December 2018 - 07:36 PM, said:

I would test the fuel pressure, send the injectors off for cleaning, and rebuild the distributor.  Also test the temperature sensor and check the connector to the temp sensor.

Already did all of that minus the temp sensor but I'm pretty sure the head is the issue.


In other news, getting ricey -
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#87 CaptainSlow

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Posted 06 January 2019 - 02:16 PM

Couple updates -

Finally got around to taking the head to the machine shop. They're business hours are exactly the same as my work schedule so I had to take a day off. Same day service at least. They had to take off .012", a little over the .008 threshold that the FSM specifies but they said it's usually not a big deal. Hopefully should be ok but at least it's straight now.

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Bought a gasket kit too. Every gasket for the top half of the engine.

Still need to have someone weld the exhaust manifold, clean up more wiring and paint a few things before she can be put back together.

Ready to have this done.




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