unforgiva31e

BOOM. Waiting for something like this to happen, sign me up!

1. 96 Jeep Cherokee - So close on this one: put an oil return in the pan, plumb oil and water to the turbo and tune, tune, tune. 2. Quest needs a fuel system overhaul, D2s put on, speedo and e-brake cables sorted out. Also trying to set a mechanical boost gauge in the stock location with a custom-made factory matching overlay. http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262555_10150254210563495_582873494_7622413_3522674_n.jpg

FijiPhil has a set of tails I almost got, hit him up, he's letting a ton of stuff go right now.

You've actually got to clock both housings so that the center section stays orientated with the oil drain at the bottom. turbo clocking got a ruler? T3: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/monkeymagic/T3flange.gif T4 (doesn't have to be divided): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/monkeymagic/T4flange.gif

Autometer has never let me down, I run a full spread in my Jeep; mechanical senders wherever possible, but that's just my preference. http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/61904_426753868494_582873494_5085105_3873017_n.jpg

My link go with a 2.3" change the oil every 50k (it takes 115 mL) consider spraying water/meth That's how I'd do it.

Nice, put me in for a set.

explain your WG (no outlet pipe atm?) and hood mounted...what is that? I am digging the P/S reservoir location.

Most compact set up to do away with the airflow sensor is to get a MAF Translator and blow through a GM MAF. But I'm also thinking that you might fit the air can directly off the compressor inlet, or pipe it way the heck away. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=117483 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107897 That should get you started, search MAFT for more. The wiring mods are also well-documented in the 1G MAS FAQ. Awesome project, BTW; love those Galants.

Sure dude, this is the week to do it. I've got nothing but time once I get off work.

Let me know, I'm 'bout to start doubling my questing efforts since I just toasted the Jeep's water pump; can't stand the thought of two questionably reliable rides.

I'll be coming out of Michigan, willing to meet up on the I70 route.

I picked up an analog meter for just that purpose. Additionally, I'm probably less than 10 miles away (Royal Oak); shoot me a PM if you need a wrenching buddy.

Actually: http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/faqs.php#productInformation Optimas are a spiral-wound Absorbed Glass Mat battery. Same Pb-Acid reaction, different package. One of the reasons Pb-acid battery performance degrades when they are deeply discharged is because of sulfation. During discharge, the lead oxide cathode and lead anode both become lead sulfate, recharging is suppose to revert everything back to lead oxide, lead, and the sulfuric acid electrolyte. However, once some of the lead sulfate has crystallized, it not easily restored. In addition to not giving you back 100% of the reactants when the battery was new, the build-up of lead sulfate crystals can fill pores in the lead plates, reducing surface area and capacity. Growing crystals can also break off pieces of the anode/cathode (so can vibration), also reducing capacity. Simply put: batteries dislike heat, vibration, and being deeply discharged. The AGM construction of Optimas mainly addresses vibration, their layout may also have a small advantage in thermal management.

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