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Jake's '87 Conquest Build Thread


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#1 CaptainSlow

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 09:41 PM

So after having a few weeks to enjoy the car and finally getting around to taking some decent pictures of it, I figured it was about time to start up a build thread. I've been lurking for a bit too long.

I bought the Conquest in late September from a guy also in Houston. He had the car for about a year and enjoyed it but it was time for him to sell it and I had to jump on it. I'm a young guy but I've had my eye on Starquests for a long time. I'm not exactly sure how many owners it's had but I'm at least number 5. 130k original miles and in mostly original condition aside from a respray (same color, not sure when). The A/C is even ice cold. It's been pretty well taken care of but obviously has its fair share of problems which is as to be expected for a 30 year old car.
I hope I can keep it for a long time.

This is of course intended as a weekend warrior/project car to go alongside my 2017 Golf R daily which also doubles as a weekend warrior/project car lol. 2 money pits to say the least. Anyway, on to some pictures -

On the drive home after purchase, both of my babies at once. They're polar opposites and I love that.
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A recent photoshoot I did, I like to play with cameras sometimes.
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I get a little spammy with the pics. Sorry not sorry.

That's how she sits now. The main goals are to get it cleaned up and driving great. Eventually do a swap if I have the means. I'm thinking 4g63, but that's a long ways away.
But first thing's first, I have a list of small stuff to fix first. It's rather lengthy. No particular order.

- Full detail (another hobby, this will be fun)
- Handbrake cable needs either adjusting or replacing
- Gas tank leaks when cornering, fuel tank is pretty beat up altogether
- The muffler is tail ugly, need to replace it
- Brakes are a little squeaky, new rotors and pads
- El-Cheapo subwoofer in the trunk doesn't work, fix or scrap it
- Rebuild turbo or replace it with a bigger one, as it gets a little smoky under load
- Fix a minor wheel bend
- Refinish wheels to factory finish, the pale gold is terrible
- Possibly replace steering wheel with a nice aftermarket one
- Figure out how to fix the steering column lock permanently
- Replace shift knob with something weighted
- Coilover kit, for the low lows
- Clean and heat wrap the underside of the hood, the cardboard is on its last legs
- Tear out the El-Cheapo alarm
- New Starion taillights (one has a hole)
- Apparently there's a hole in the floorboard (lol)
- Replace worn out pedal covers
- Clean up wiring catastrophe under the hood
- Gauge cluster has some wiring issues (tachometer loses signal when I turn on my right turn signal lol)
- Antenna is not connected
- Eventually have the seats re-upholstered
- Adjust idle and diagnose random misfire at idle
- Diagnose possible boost leak (car just dies past 4k)

I'll do my best to document everything I do to this car, big or small. It may get excessive. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Thanks for checking me out (take that any way you like) and I'll be around.
'17 Golf R Daily :: '87 Conquest Racekar
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#2 speedyquest

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:13 PM

That is a very nice looking car man. I look forward to seeing the progress!

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#3 CaptainSlow

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:24 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 17 October 2017 - 10:13 PM, said:

That is a very nice looking car man. I look forward to seeing the progress!

Thanks! Yours is awesome too. I've peeked at your thread a few times. Goals for sure.
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#4 87redcat

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 05:15 AM

Good looking car for sure. Welcome aboard to the insanity we love.
Most if your fixes can be found on here. The search function is your friend. I suggest getting a factory service manual (FSM) it'll help out a lot, or confuse you.lol
You've got a good eye with that camera. Cant wait to see more pics
I got blisters on my fingers!!!

#5 Fuze

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 08:16 AM

Cool car. Regarding this:
"- Gas tank leaks when cornering, fuel tank is pretty beat up altogether"

I found when I was reworking my fuel filler that the hose coupler that connects the filler tube to the tank had cracks in it. Prior to doing the work, I would smell gas when cornering to the right. A 30-plus year old piece of rubber, I replaced with actual fuel filler hose and no more problems.

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#6 CaptainSlow

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 08:34 AM

View Post87redcat, on 18 October 2017 - 05:15 AM, said:

Good looking car for sure. Welcome aboard to the insanity we love.
Most if your fixes can be found on here. The search function is your friend. I suggest getting a factory service manual (FSM) it'll help out a lot, or confuse you.lol
You've got a good eye with that camera. Cant wait to see more pics
Thanks for the warm welcome. An FSM is on the list for sure.

View PostFuze, on 18 October 2017 - 08:16 AM, said:

Cool car. Regarding this:
"- Gas tank leaks when cornering, fuel tank is pretty beat up altogether"

I found when I was reworking my fuel filler that the hose coupler that connects the filler tube to the tank had cracks in it. Prior to doing the work, I would smell gas when cornering to the right. A 30-plus year old piece of rubber, I replaced with actual fuel filler hose and no more problems.
I figured it was something like this, I just haven't had time to really dig into it. Hard right turns is what does it for me too. Thanks for the info.
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#7 CaptainSlow

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 12:44 PM

Felt the need to tinker last night so I decided to randomly rip apart half of the trunk and check out the top of the fuel tank. The project this weekend will be to drop the tank, fix the leaks, clean the crap out of it, and put it all back together hopefully in time for the Quest's first show Saturday evening.

Needless to say I found a few things.

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To start the subwoofer's power harness basically fell out when I picked it up so I guess that's why it didn't work. Might keep it out anyway since it looks like it sucks anyway.

The top of the tank from what I could access was dirty and kinda beat up but looks like it should be easy to drop. Didn't really go any further than that with the tank.

While I had access I decided to take out the antenna assembly to see maybe why it wasn't working. Thankfully it was easy to get to. I think it's aftermarket and either broken or disconnected from behind the radio because even after re-assembling it there was still no reception. Might just toss that too and consider shaving over the giant hole in the spoiler.

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After that I pretty much left the rear alone and poked around under the hood for a bit. I noticed a PO had left a coat hanger attached to the hood release and only after removing the black grille was I able to get it out. The normal hood release worked just fine (I think it's new) so it wasn't needed. Little stuff like that bugs me.

While I had the grille off I figured I might was well go ahead and replace the side marker lights since I wasn't sure if they worked or not. I had some pretty good quality Amber LED's laying around that actually look really good in there.

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That was pretty much where I was done. Somehow managed not to break anything. More updates this weekend.

It's the little details.
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#8 Fuze

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Posted 27 October 2017 - 07:32 AM

Yep. It's a lot of that PO archeology lol. Saw you on Insta I think.

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#9 CaptainSlow

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 07:02 PM

Task at hand - Drop the fuel tank, clean the crap out of it, replace the filler neck, put it back in and get it to the car meet. Got about 20% of that done as expected.

Anyway, I start by attempting to start the car and unplug the level sensor to de-pressurize the lines. I say "attempt" because the starter was already finnicky and the cold weather didn't make it any better. For a minute there it would crank, but quickly disengage the gear and run open. After a few tries it would no longer try to crank at all. Probably just needs a good smack with a broom handle but I went ahead and started working anyway. If need be I could always roll start it.

Got the car in the air and took the rear wheel off to allow easy access to the back of the tank and the lines.

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Like a lot of things in the car, everything was put together pretty janky. Only 4 bolts (different size) holding the tank in (no straps, interestingly) and the pump was practically laying on top of the tank. It came out without too much fuss despite being mostly full (dumb idea, yeah yeah).

I disassembled everything off of it and totally drained it. Most everything was pretty beat up but fixable. The pickup tube and level sensor were both pretty rusted but I think can be cleaned up. Funny the pickup tube had no filter on it whatsoever. New one ordered.

It was pretty nasty inside too. Lots of rust.

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Excuse the messy garage, roommates and I have a lot of cars at the moment lol. Since people are bound to ask, they're a '73 Camaro and an E36.

This is when I decided not to put it back in. Since new tanks are nowhere to be found or extremely expensive I've elected to have it refurbished at a specialty shop. Thankfully one is relatively close. They will completely clean, strip, and re-coat it.

As for all the hardware I'll do my best to clean them up. Thankfully the pump is relatively new and seems to work fine. I need to fix the wiring, because for whatever reason it's connected to the starter circuit and not ignition and will only engage when the key is in the start position. Gonna clean up the wiring too.

I'll undercoat the underside of the trunk while I have the tank out and once I get everything I'll put it back hoping to never have to take it out again.

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So as she sits she's not going anywhere for a bit. Hopefully this can all get done relatively quickly because I want to drive it obviously.


P.S. Got a neat keytag

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#10 CaptainSlow

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 01:36 PM

Called the shop inquiring about the restoration for the gas tank, they said it's nearly $500 and had a 4-6 week turnaround time. I was hoping for more like $150 and a week, so looks like I'll be doing it myself.

New plan -

- Attempt to pull any dents/damage as best I can, doesn't need to be perfect
- Soak it in vinegar or cleaner for at least a few days to get most of the rust out
- Make it as clean as possible, and pick up a POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit to re-seal it
- Clean the outside and coat it in rubberized undercoating
- Clean up the hardware as good as possible
- Put er back
- Rip it

Not waiting 4-6 weeks. This shouldn't cost any more than 100 bucks to do.
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#11 bha280

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 09:36 AM

View PostCaptainSlow, on 29 October 2017 - 07:02 PM, said:


As for all the hardware I'll do my best to clean them up. Thankfully the pump is relatively new and seems to work fine. I need to fix the wiring, because for whatever reason it's connected to the starter circuit and not ignition and will only engage when the key is in the start position. Gonna clean up the wiring too.



Sweet car! FYI, the fuel pump is supposed to come on when the key is in the start position. There is a main relay by the ecu that controls that. When it gets power (key in start), it completes a circuit to keep the power going to the fuel pump. Something like that. I had to chase down a problem with the pump not getting power a few years ago and became very familiar with that system.
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnieder HD springs and 292 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported Evo III 16G, 3" turbo back, lightened/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hard pipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR, A/C, and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T Gen II, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Mookeh rear struts and adjustable front inserts, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, short throw, MSD 6a, poly bushings.

Soon to be in a flatty!

#12 CaptainSlow

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 11:22 AM

View Postbha280, on 31 October 2017 - 09:36 AM, said:

Sweet car! FYI, the fuel pump is supposed to come on when the key is in the start position. There is a main relay by the ecu that controls that. When it gets power (key in start), it completes a circuit to keep the power going to the fuel pump. Something like that. I had to chase down a problem with the pump not getting power a few years ago and became very familiar with that system.

Hmm interesting, I was always under the impression it always had to run with the key in the on position. I guess that explains why I never had any issues with fuel pressure while driving. Thanks for the tip, saves me another headache.
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#13 Fuze

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 07:15 AM

View PostCaptainSlow, on 31 October 2017 - 11:22 AM, said:

Hmm interesting, I was always under the impression it always had to run with the key in the on position. I guess that explains why I never had any issues with fuel pressure while driving. Thanks for the tip, saves me another headache.

I think you're right, the start position is only momentary to power the starter, the "on" position powers up the pump if I remember correctly. Was prolly a typo in bha's response.

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#14 bha280

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Posted 01 November 2017 - 09:26 AM

No typo. There is another SQ-er local that was chasing some problems and was using some tool that attaches to the starter, you leave the key in the on position, and while you're out of the car you are supposed to be able to start it. The car wouldn't turn over. I went over to help after I had discovered my problem and told him about the key having to go to "start" to power the fuel pump. He disconnected the tool, hooked everything back up, and it fired up.

It sounds weird, did to me, but for that split second the key goes to "start," there is a switch to the fuel pump that gets closed and stays closed when the key goes back to "on." Try it. Pop the fuel pump cover off, put key in "on" and see there is no power. Then, have someone crank it with the volt meter attached and you'll get power. It all has to do with that big (12-pin?) relay by the ecu.
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnieder HD springs and 292 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported Evo III 16G, 3" turbo back, lightened/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hard pipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR, A/C, and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T Gen II, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Mookeh rear struts and adjustable front inserts, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, short throw, MSD 6a, poly bushings.

Soon to be in a flatty!

#15 Fuze

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Posted 03 November 2017 - 06:50 AM

Interesting. I knew about the ECU relay that closes the fuel pump circuit it just seemed strange that the relay would stay closed after the applied voltage (momentary start on ignition switch) was apparently not supplied.

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#16 bha280

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Posted 03 November 2017 - 09:23 AM

I may be explaining it wrong, words aren't my strong suit, but I do know its functioning right.
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnieder HD springs and 292 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported Evo III 16G, 3" turbo back, lightened/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hard pipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR, A/C, and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T Gen II, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Mookeh rear struts and adjustable front inserts, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, short throw, MSD 6a, poly bushings.

Soon to be in a flatty!

#17 CaptainSlow

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Posted 03 November 2017 - 10:51 AM

As long as it's working lol :lol:
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#18 Fuze

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 12:11 PM

View Postbha280, on 03 November 2017 - 09:23 AM, said:

I may be explaining it wrong, words aren't my strong suit, but I do know its functioning right.

LOL I hear that!

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#19 CaptainSlow

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 08:33 PM

Car's been down for waaay too long but I finally made some progress this week.

Got the tank kinda cleaned up on the outside and let it soak in degreaser and later vinegar to get most of the rust out. After the vinegar I let a water hose rinse it out for a good 30 minutes to get all loose debris out, and another 30 with a heat gun to get it completely dry. Pics -

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Degreaser
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My dumb self tried to flip it to let the vinegar sit on the top side, of course it all leaked out. All of that was from inside the tank.
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After the vinegar, rinse and dry
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While that was rinsing out I got a few more things checked off the list too.

Undercoated the car
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Painted the filler neck
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Enlarged the hole on the pickup filter, the generic one I was sent wouldn't fit
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And finally took a wire wheel to the pickup and the level sensor. This is the before pic and I have yet to take an after.
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I'll get some better pics of everything once I start assembling it.

The POR15 kit just showed up, and tomorrow I'll go hunting for new hardware and hoses. So the only things left to do are clean up the wiring for the fuel pump, use the reseal kit on the tank, spray the tank with the undercoating, and throw it back in the car.

Hopefully that means I can get it back on the road in about a week. I've probably forgotten how to drive stick my now.
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#20 CaptainSlow

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 11:34 PM

This one will be long, so TL;DR - It's done and she's alive again!

If you've gotten this far, congrats! You're in for an eye-full.

Let's start off where the last post ended. The POR-15 kit was delivered and I spent a couple days using it on the tank. It consisted of 3 steps, starting with a heavy degreaser and equal parts warm water, rinse, next a bottle of metal prep to allow the coating to bond, rinse again, thoroughly dry, and finally add the coating itself.

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Managed to fry my heat gun during the drying process because my dumb self didn't allow the tank to vent while using the heat gun. Lesson learned there.
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Due to this I had to rig my own heat gun because cold air just wasn't getting it dry. Yes, that is an electric blower sucking air from a space heater. It worked lol.
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Anyway, it's finally dry.
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And finally coated. It's not pretty because I did a terrible job mixing the solution but it coated a good 90% of the inside of the tank and dried to a hard finish.
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Once that finished and cured for a couple days I started the undercoating and initial assembly.

Started off with the sending unit. It's relatively clean now.
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Installed, with shiny new hardware.
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And started with the undercoating. Before -
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And after
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Top before
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After
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Not too shabby if you ask me.


During this I had noticed the pickup tube did not fit properly because the bottom of the tank was dented in so badly. It had to sit in a baffle inside the tank to properly pick up fuel but a previous owner had just clocked the pickup in a different way so it was not inside the baffle and only getting fuel from the open tank. That would have been fine but it was causing the car to stall out on steep hills (like my driveway) and I wanted to do this right so after many failed attempts to bang out the bottom of the tank I took the pickup to a friend with a welder to be modified. Pics -

Before being modified
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After cutting and shortening it about an inch
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And even after being shortened it was still too tall and would not sit in the baffle completely. I just said screw it and cut off a good chunk of tube and replaced it with rubber so it was adjustable. That ended up allowing it to sit perfectly. Won't be as permanent of a solution as welding but it should last for a long time still.
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And finally, after full assembly of the tank and completely re-doing the wiring harness, it was ready to be put back in the car.

Harness cleaned up
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Ready for the car
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Re-install was pretty easy. Nothing noteworthy and I didn't take many pics (for once).

Next reply - (too many pics)
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