Non-SQ-1989 Dodge Raider Turbo Fuel Injected Megasquirt

[jonboyb]

Copy of my Craigslist ad so excuse some of the blah blah. Price is high but includes some high dollar spare parts that can be pulled out of deal. I bought the Raider with 210k, did the MS swap at 212k, and went to turbo engine at about 215k.

 

Search for me on here....lots of posts througout build

 

$5200 with everything I own for it.

 

1989 Dodge Raider (same as Gen1 Mitsubishi Montero) 5 speed manual. Can't believe I'm doing this, but I just don't use it anymore. I looked for a couple years for a good chassis before finding this one. Paint is not great (particularly on hood and roof) but it's one of the cleanest chassis I've seen on a Gen1. The body is super straight, the frame and undercarriage are completely un-abused, and ZERO rust, period. Interior is pretty good other than driver's seat. New carpet and windshield too. Ironically it is a higher mileage body (220k) but all driveline much lower mileage. It rides, drives, shifts, and stops as good as the day it left the showroom (not to mention MUCH stronger). 4x4 and auto hubs work perfectly.

 

I've owned it for maybe 4 years and I drove it normally aspirated/carbed for maybe a year. Quite frankly, it was dangerously underpowered for Atlanta driving. I've owned and built Starion's and Conquest's since the early 90's so the engine swap was in order. It has the full turbo G54b longblock, not just the NA block with a turbo slapped on. Engine has around 8000 miles on it. Has the complete setup from an 85 Starion (non-intercooled) but new turbo (stock size), injectors, sensors, etc. I have an intercooler for it as well, just never installed nor have I ever raised the boost over factory levels. Took the Raider from 114 hp/145 torque to 145 hp/220 torque and gas mileage went up by probably 30%. Its still no sports car, but at least safe to merge into Atlanta traffic.

 

Fuel system controlled by Megasquirt 2 V3 standalone, custom fuel system from the tank to the intake, you name it. I redid the brakes, struts, wheels/tires etc and it really does drive beautifully. Unfortunately I spent a small fortune, my best estimate is around $9000 with no labor costs. Includes some really nice spare parts like a brand new non-jetvalve head and a factory Mitsu transmission with 1500 original miles (not a typo)!!!! Those are jsut spares....the components in the Raider work just fine, but I was planning on keeping this forever. All electrical, heat, and even AC work. I built it to be a daily driver, and I feel the project turned out great. Sorry for the long post, but here's a rundown of some of the parts in it. The wheels/tires, electronics, and engine components cost me more than I'm asking.

 

1989 Raider (App. 220k on chassis, fresher driveline)

Monroe Shocks

Mickey Thompson STZ Tires

16" Incubus Poltergeist Wheels

Powdercoating to Wheels

NIB Black Spare (not on vehicle)

Brakes (Rotors, Drums, Pads)

Wheel Bearings

1500 Mile Spare Transmission

Brand new spare non-jet valve head

Turbo 225 Clutch

Turbo Longblock (8,000 miles now)

New Factory Turbo

850 Injectors

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

Various Braided Fuel Lines/Fittings/Filter

New Oil Pump (Montero)

New Oil Pickup

Mitsu Timing Set

Bottom End Gasket Set

Valvecover/Upper Gaskets

New Bosch Alternator (75 amp)

Motor Mounts (Used)

AC O-Ring Kit

R134 Charge (3 cans)

Belts, Hoses, etc

Fluid Change Tranny, Transfer Case, Diffs

Custom 2.5" Downpipe/Flex/Wrap

Exhaust Components (2.5" to stock rear section)

Intercooler (Stock Starion)

Replacement Fan Shroud (Used)

Replacement Seatbelt Stalks (Used)

Replacement Emblems (Used)

Megasquirt 2 V3.0

DIY Autotune Harness

Various Wiring/Fuse/Relays

GM IAT Temp Sensor/Pigtail

AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge

Autometer Boot/Vacuum Gauge

 

Like I said, I built it to be daily driver dependable, but you probably need to be a hobbyist mechanic as I'm sure little things will go wrong from time to time. It's a 25 year old vehicle after all....but I assure you no shortcuts were taken on this build. I will consider removing wheels/tires or pulling the spare tranny and head out of the deal. Clean title in-hand. Thanks.

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/Side2.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/Side1.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/Engine.jpg

[BuGG]

Any shots of the interior?

[jonboyb]

I'll have to upload some to Photobucket....at football with kids

[jonboyb]

Here's the interior and some side angle closeups. Interior is above average fr one of these other than the driver's seat. Has the center gauge pod with inclinometer, oil pressure, and voltage from factory (inclinometer still 100% functional). Driver's bouncy seat. Boost and wideband gauges just sitting there as I was going to do a radio install and mount them then, never got around to it. Last picture are the wheels and tires I can swap out to lower price a big chunk. It's FILTHY in these pics, but if rain holds off I will be cleaning it up today. I still have the running boards stored but the PO wouldn't sell me the basket.

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/11.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/12.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/13.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/14.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/15.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/16.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/17.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/18.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/19.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/20.jpg

 

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae29/awb1102/raider2.jpg

Edited September 27, 2014 by jonboyb

[jonboyb]

To answer a couple questions. I will take $300 off to remove the new spare non-jet valve head, $500 for the spare tranny, and $800 to put the other wheels/tires back on.

 

While going turbo/FI increased gas mileage ALOT, this is still not a gas sipper. About 23 mpg is the best it will get but that dips to around 20 or less if you do extended interstate travel. With the low gears it runs high rpm at 70+.