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The quest for a running 86 Quest


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This is the 1986 plymouth conquest tsi that I found on craigslist for $3000. It was in fair shape and was all there, other than the driver side door panel; black with black leather interior. The previous owner had cut 2 coils off the springs and it looked amazing. Upon first empression this was a good car for the price. Not until the trip home did the laundry list of problems rear its head. The car ran well but had leaking injectors and the coil was arching to things that had fuel on them. Vacuum leaks causing surging and bucking on throttle. The car had brakes but little to none from the owner not replacing pads. The interior was very nice, other than missing drivers door panel and split seam in the tail of drivers seat. Long story short, me and my friend (Ernie Ramey) ended up getting the car for $2000 after telling the owner what had to be done and replaced. On the plus side the car had a new 2 1/4'' exhaust. I then drove the car back from Tennessee to Kentucky. After a crazy trip, we stopped at our friends place (Jakob Thomas) Who is a long time pal and fellow gearhead. After changing the plugs andwires we moved on to changing the oil that looked very differant than when we left Nashville. How was it differant you might ask? Well, when inspecting the car before paying cash for it, the oil was clean and looked new, but when we drove it 120 miles it looked like a milk shake, YIKES! So it was changed. After some burnouts and doughnuts it was off to our house.

After more inspection the car had a leaking throttle body gasket, which we replaced with a fel-pro counter part. The leaking injectors were replaced with trilogy 850cc units. Then all vacuum lines were replaced with new line. The car ran fine for a short time; like down the street, then started bucking and leaning out. The fuel pump died soon after. It was replaced with a new bosch pump, all new filters and the gas tank got the acid treatment as well as all new sending units on the engine. The tps and isc were set to spec. The stock boost gauge would read 10 psi with only the key on and not running. After like 500+ dollars and not finding out why this thing would not run it was time to go to megasquirt. Jake and Ernie both have Datsuns running Ms1 v3 and know their stuff so I bit the bullet and licked my wounded wallet. I soon found a ms2 with lots of extras, like stim and a box of mod kits on craigslist for 250 bucks. Thinking this was a killer deal, we quickly bought it and ordered a pre made 12ft harness from diyautotune, along with all the gm sensors and pigtails and clips. Ernie and I removed the stock ecu and all wiring from it out of the car. Yes the whole engine harrness! The megasquirt that we got the good deal on was burnt when we recived it and would not send ground to fire the injectors. So Ernie loaned me a ms1 extra v3 from another project which worked to great success.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture035_zpsfe10fa6d.jpg

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We have used the stock ovcp after welding on a lathed down piece of bar to allow us to use one of the many bosch bypass valves Ernie and Jake have collected at pull-a-part.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture015_zps59f97721.jpg

 

We used a 40 amp ford fuel pump relay to power the 6 fuse fuseblock under the hood which powers megasquirt lc1 wideband injectors and coil. A 30 amp relay runs the fuel pump.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture014_zps117b4220.jpg

 

The stock boost gauge was replaced with a black sunpro gauge. We also installed the wideband gauge from innovative motorsports and a sun pro water temp gauge in the place were the radio would have gone, but the car did not come with one so we are temporarily mounting these gauges there. We like to see numbers not just low and high on our gauges, so the stock temp sensor hole in the intake was used to run the sunpro.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture029_zps05229fe1.jpg

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture030_zps4846e48e.jpg

All the egr stuff was removed as well as the isc.

The car has got new brake pads which made it really stop well. I am very pleased with that. After a stupid moment of retarded timing, the car runs very well, better I might add than the stock ecu ran this thing!

Also we opted to use a 2nd gen mighty max distributor with the optical sensor over the stock vr distributor that came on this car. It took minimal effort and some tig welding to make it work.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture018_zpse99d6913.jpg

 

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The coil was replaced because it died and stopped working. Timing was set to 10 degs advanced at idle. After good tune on stock boost was achived we moved on to 14 psi with a homemade ball and spring boost controller. Which is all Ernie said this turbo can blow and still stay in its efficiency range. The big ugly air box was soon diched for a silicone replacement. We are working on a box for the filter as your reading this, but even witout it the air intake temps are lower than the stock box. We need a 45 were the second 90 is but I haven't ordered it yet.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture020_zps086d6fd0.jpg

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture019_zps9b7fe00a.jpg

 

The primary Big fan did not work so it was replaced with a 16'' one from advanced auto with a adjustable fan relay kit. Recently installed a 180 deg thermostat and set fans to trigger at 190 degs. The car runs cool around 185-195 all the time. The relay triggers the 16'' and the small pusher fan in front of the condenser at the same time on a 40 amp relay. The stock fan switches and wiring we tucked away. The car kept killing the optima red top battery after 4-5 days and we could not find out why. Well The fan relay got wired to run even when the car was off, because Ernie was afraid of heat soak after shut down and the fans running for 10 mins after key was off was slowly draining the battery so now it runs to the fuse block under the hood with all the other switched 12v stuff. The car will see 225-230 when shut off but quickly cools off when started back up.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture021_zps4562d01b.jpg

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/Picture022_zpsabe55464.jpg

We have a stock set of springs on there way from a very nice member here! I would like to give thanks to (Alan) for going out of his way to get me the springs

and shipping them to us even though we can't pay for them for another week or so. Alan thanks for being a stand up guy and good luck with the 280z!!!

If im allowed to post in the mpi/megasquirt setion i will post maps and data logs and all info for the distributor wiring and wiring for the megasquirt. There is more to come! Now making to much power for this crap clutch and now under load and boost it will slip. This coming week im going to get a clutch to fix the problem!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are some pics of it cleaned. The clutch and rear springs are going in tomorrow.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0970_zpsa1c8bd82.jpg

 

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http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0965_zps8ce273ce.jpg

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0960_zps806b6888.jpg

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Thanks! These pics were taken before I figured out how to make the headlights go down, which I found out how to do thanks to the archive section of this site. :)

 

Have I mentioned how much I love this website?

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Well this is a crazy story and its too wild to not tell you guys! So my stock clutch was slipping after turning boost up to 14 psi and a lot more timing in my tune. So i needed a new clutch a few friends of mine recommended the xtd or autocom ceramic 6 puck with a heavier pressure plate. Ernie is running a xtd on his 280zx turbo which is a 12 sec car on slicks. For over 2 years his works fantastic and thats with him using launch control and leaving on 10 psi. Jake is running a autocom rb25 light weight flywheel and a autocom 350z 255mm organic clutch on his supercharged 240z. So after looking at prices of clutch's i was like why not try one. A stage 2 autocom clutch was ordered for $105 shipped.

the plan was to go to jakes i bowling green ky on Saturday and put the clutch and rear springs in. Keep in mind my driver window is not in the car but in the mail from johnny-wad and it has been raining alot. It was clear and nice Friday and was looking to be the same saturday so we left about 7am that morning and the weather looked good. Around half way there it started to rain and with virtually slicks (bald) 245's on the rear of this thing it started dancing! 70 mph it was a scary thing so i slowed down to like 50 and it was still doing it. Ernie mentioned we could get off the next exit and sit under the over hang at a truck stop to wait the rain out. We waited about 20 mins and it cleared up and we left again this time with ernie driving. In light of the interstate being like ice we took the back road to get to bowling green. There was cars half under water peoples yards that looked like lakes and we were thinking it did not even rain that long. Soon we came upon a section of the road that was covered in water it did not look that deep so we creeped into it and drove on. alot of corners and low spots in this road were submerged in 6-8'' of water which is not a big deal to drive through it because the engine is sealed up tight as well as the exhaust and the air filter was mounted up high. We eventually got to the end of the road which looked like a lake! Im talking a quarter of a mile of water i could not see the road. After seeing a truck drive in a kinda gauging how deep it was we decided it forge through the lake!!! It started out okay then got deeper. my arm was out the window and my finger tips were in the water. With the exhaust bubbling away and water half up the door no watter came in the car so i guess my door seals are good huh. Anyway after the boating session we made it to jakes and flogged the car around to dry it out because it was 100% dry at jakes. The trans came out and the clutch job began.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0984_zps0d9d20cb.jpg

 

This is me hanging out from under the car removing the starter. Fun fun fun.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0985_zps06377751.jpg

 

This trans is smaller than the t-5 in ernies datsun!!

 

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Here is the new clutch looks good.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0993_zpsd92d63b1.jpg

 

 

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Well long story short Ernie was bolting up the pressure plate and twisted one of the bolts off and then while talking about that laying under the car the pressure plate shoots another one out and hit ernie in the face! looking at the remaining bolts they were all used before and cracked and twisted on the top thread. so we took the clutch and flywheel out to remove the headless bolts. Autozone had some grade 10.9 m8-1.25 bolts but they were a little to long so jake cut them down and doctored the threads. All was reinstalled and it felt good untill the ride home because the car has a vibration or harmonic on decell around 3k. Hummm out of balance clutch. So after talking to auto com about the kit and why it was slipping when im not even in boost they are sending me a hd pressure plate for free! The one in the kit was a oem seco replacement wich was apparent when the clutch pedal was pushed and the pedal was no stiffer. Just goes to show how good the guys at autocom are. the clutch is going to get broke it and the new plate and flywheel are getting balanced at 8000 rpm by scott at bowling green machine. Another stand up guy. Will update more after this stuff gets done. and the clutch pedal gets hooked up for launch control. Wooot Woooot. Untill next time guys.

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After all the above gets sorted another project will begin. Humm choices

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0983_zpsc2dae974.jpg

 

 

Then the MPI manifold will start!!!

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0981_zps31ed5c8f.jpg

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/100_0980_zps730f7057.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

Well hello guy im back with more news of the quest type. After a coolant leak that i could not track down and the car over heating when it was 20 deg's outside i decided it was time for the quest for a running quest was still on so began v2. First off I was told when this car was bought that it had a new head (non jet) and it did not!!! The 5500 rev limit roof because of the soft valve springs sucked. So i ordered a non jet casting off ebay and Schneider springs to help with that. Also a one off t3 manifold and 2.5'' downpipe and side exit exhaust that was made in house. the turbo is a 280zx take off so garrett t3 60 trim compressor .63 a/r turbine. Yeah i got bigger turbo's as seen above but i daily this car and want the fastest spool and bottom end to suit traffic driving. It's small but has enough flow to support 250whp and have close to stock spool with some more legs up top. Hell Ernie got his 280zx into the low 13's on this turbo. Anyways here are some pic's and when the build v3 kicks off the mpi manifold will be posted up.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/manifold1_zps01f73290.jpg

 

 

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http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/manifold3_zps7a16b14b.jpg

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That sucks we will see they are already installed and head is on block. If i still have float issues and they come back off i will check the height of the springs. When and if i need to run a different spring i will run the 3.3 bee hive springs and they are cheaper than 180 bucks a set lol. Do you have any proof of this spring problem if so provide it and we will contact schnieder and get a bunch of refunds for springs because alot of guys are running them. Not picking fights or saying your wrong just like to see reasons behind saying a part or manufacturer is bad or will fail so i know if it's worth removing from my car or not.
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You'll have to contact Phil (Phinko) for hard numbers, he had them posted on his site a while back but I don't see them now. Last spring at our Little Rock meet I got to hear what valve float sounded like on the dyno.

 

I do have a valve spring checker ordered and I do have some used Schneider springs lying around at the moment so I'll do my best to check a few in the near future. Schneider does not have a free length spec listed, only pressure at installed height and pressure at 0.500" lift.

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OK, grabbed four old 6610's to check, can't say how many miles are on them but a fair guess is 10K.

 

Installed height is 1.600", spec 100 lbs pressure, @0.500" lift pressure spec is 180 lbs.

 

Spring 1, 2, 3, 4, install height pressure 84, 84, 86, 84, pressure at 0.500" lift 168, 169, 169, 166.

 

Nice and consistent, just all low everywhere, indicative of loss of free length. You can shim them, typically a spring that goes through this cycle won't change much into the future.

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  • 5 months later...
Well the car is up and running and running quiet well. i got a njv head from ebay and arp head studs and I did use the t3 from the 280zx which is a 60 trim compressor and a .63 a/r turbine with internal wastegate. It is tuned out to 17 psi with a 12-12.6 afr's under full steam. The 2.5'' downpipe was wrapped with a dei header wrap which is good to 1800 deg. continuous and 2500 intermittent. The 2.5'' exhaust only has one bend in it a 45 deg at the diff and has no mufflers or cats, for my flame throwing enjoyment. The clutch seems to be doing well after break in. And i went to a electrical water temp gauge. I will post up pics and video asap. Thanks for checking it out guys. Edited by Doctor_Drift
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glad to see you making progress. how is the car with the .63 A\R?

does it spool good? i ran a .82 and a .48 A\R also. the 48 was like instant spool.

the 82 was lag city. i want to try a 63 again. i think the 48 chokes the exhaust a little.

But for daily driving i like the 48.. if they made a 55 A\R i think it would be perfect.

Edited by importwarrior
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Hey man the .63 a/r is perfect!!! If you stand on it at 2k you are rewarded with 1-2 psi instantly then im full in (17 psi) by around 2600 it is fantastic on the street and pulls well to around 6200. The rev limit is 6500 but it rarely gets hit. Looking at the fuel map it seems to make peak torque around 3k so there is no need to downshift on the interstate just squeeze 5th and go. I think its faster from 70-100 in 5th than it is if i downshift to 4th because in 4th its in the higher rpm's and is out of the torque band lol. Thanks for asking and if you can i would run a .63 i highly recommend it.
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Ha i just found a old picture while looking for pics of the car. This is how you clean a piston out of a turbine lol.

 

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p733/redzedturbo/phone012_zps41348bcc.jpg

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