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No Pull + Massive backfire


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#1 TroyStarion

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 09:50 AM

As of late my car has had a strange problem. If I go WOT it will either act like normal or struggle to make power and backfire a ton, and it will do one of the two scenarios for the entire length of the pull. I was told by different people to check sensors (O2, knock) or that it's water in the gas tank, fuel filter, etc. What do you guys think, because this is definitely a weird problem. Especially in the scenario when it won't pull, I get off the gas for a second, get back on the gas and it will pull. Any thoughts?
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#2 pcristquester

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 10:27 AM

Fuel pump could be dying
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#3 croquest87

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 10:55 AM

Vacuum advance could be getting sticky

#4 delayed replay

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 11:58 AM

View Postcroquest87, on 30 June 2019 - 10:55 AM, said:

Vacuum advance could be getting sticky
Yes. Possible vacuum advance problem.

#5 TroyStarion

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 01:33 PM

View Postdelayed replay, on 30 June 2019 - 11:58 AM, said:


Yes. Possible vacuum advance problem.

I did the suck test on the vac advance and it held vacuum just fine...
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#6 TroyStarion

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 01:34 PM

View Postpcristquester, on 30 June 2019 - 10:27 AM, said:

Fuel pump could be dying

If the fuel pump was going wouldn't it be whining? It doesn't do that at all.
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#7 croquest87

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 01:40 PM

View PostTroyStarion, on 30 June 2019 - 01:34 PM, said:



If the fuel pump was going wouldn't it be whining? It doesn't do that at all.
I had vacuum advance arm get sticky Right where the tabs  hold arm in place . Sometimes it will work sometimes it would just get stuck almost for a second or two or longer. Replaced w new advance and made sure moves freely =problem gone  they are cheap new to eliminate one thing out of the way. But l have been wrong before.

Edited by croquest87, 30 June 2019 - 01:46 PM.


#8 markhansenconquest

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 03:06 PM

The weights inside the DISS are sticking sometimes and sometimes NOT( from OLD dried up grease ).....Everyone need to take theirs apart and  Rebuied There s........... (clean and regrease)..........30 year OLD.grease inside the DISS is like Gueeey   varnish !! .just  like grease in the wiper motor ( makes them run slowwwwww..).............(.use die electric grease)............If the DISS does nt run smooth the timing will be OFF  ( the weights and vacuum part have to work together flawlessly for timing to work RIGHT )Vacuum can is a RETARDING system and the weights inside the DISS are for the advance of timing.Not like a non turbo car ....( works the same ,, but retards the timing   )...They need a retard system for the Knock control to work .,,So u don t crack the block ,,because of frequency emitited from detonation happening.................. ...............................
When detonation is detected,, Knock Box retards timing to save Engine from  destroying it self...........That's why your car work s sometimes and sometimes it backfires..........IMO If u have not done it ..u need to do it to take one more thing that has to be done or U will never eliminate all the problems...........bad TPS or clogging injector can have the same cut out problems......

Edited by markhansenconquest, 30 June 2019 - 08:22 PM.


#9 TroyStarion

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 03:33 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 30 June 2019 - 01:40 PM, said:

I had vacuum advance arm get sticky Right where the tabs  hold arm in place . Sometimes it will work sometimes it would just get stuck almost for a second or two or longer. Replaced w new advance and made sure moves freely =problem gone  they are cheap new to eliminate one thing out of the way. But l have been wrong before.

Redid the suck test and it gave me a bit of air and whistled... ordering a new vac advance and I'll update when I put it in.

Edited by TroyStarion, 30 June 2019 - 03:36 PM.

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#10 scott87star

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 08:41 PM

Backfires and lack of power are timing issues, listen to Mark ^^^^^ above.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

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#11 techboy

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 10:19 PM

I've been following this thread, is there a FAQ somewhere that details how to rebuild the dizzy? I was looking around today and didnt see anything. I need to redo mine for sure.
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#12 TroyStarion

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Posted 04 July 2019 - 09:00 AM

View Posttechboy, on 03 July 2019 - 10:19 PM, said:

I've been following this thread, is there a FAQ somewhere that details how to rebuild the dizzy? I was looking around today and didnt see anything. I need to redo mine for sure.

That would be nice, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Anyways, I threw in a new vacuum advance and it looked amazing compared to the old one, but didn't solve my issue. Car still hesitated a bit. One thing I noticed is that I don't have to be WOT for it to happen.
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#13 markhansenconquest

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Posted 04 July 2019 - 11:54 AM

^^^^ your problems  changed ,,because u only replaced the vacuum can (which had  hole in diaphragm ) ) but that's only one half of the system .. (the weights are the other half !!!!I ).....Spinning weights and the vacuum can are pulling on pick-up plate in the DISS  at the same time.......they both work together to keep the timing at the sweet place  ..............If one half of system done nt work ..the other half can t work right earthier....  they have to work together with no glitches.......( timing is all ways changing and u have to have the system to pull timing as soon as KNOCK it is detected for it to work.).....Now we use a computer and a locked DISS to change the timing timing to whatever we want ........We did nt have the computing power that we have now and remember U have to make a car that does nt  blow up to sell ............................This is the infancy of tuner cars .............
EVOLUTION.......... this car is the first   EVO...............

Edited by markhansenconquest, 04 July 2019 - 02:11 PM.


#14 TroyStarion

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Posted 01 August 2019 - 08:38 PM

Problem just got much worse today. Was driving up a hill and the car started backfiring like really loud and from the front of the car, sounds like it's running on two cylinders (like a tractor) and would buck bad with any significant throttle input. I pulled it over on the side of the road but found nothing was leaking. I limped it back home, car always had a loud valvetrain but now sounds twice as loud (like it's got a hot cam). I was watching the oil pressure gauge the entire time while limping it on the way home, pressure was good. Oil level was also good.

Woe is me...

Any thoughts before I rip that valve cover off?
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#15 croquest87

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Posted 01 August 2019 - 08:43 PM

Sounds like it's out time or something.

#16 TroyStarion

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Posted 01 August 2019 - 09:07 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 01 August 2019 - 08:43 PM, said:

Sounds like it's out time or something.

Ignition or cam? I'd love for ignition to be the problem, maybe it skipped a tooth? Only thing that doesn't make sense is that the valvetrain sounds twice as loud... maybe that's another symptom.
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#17 croquest87

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Posted 02 August 2019 - 06:07 AM

Things to double check:
All plugs are tight
All ign wires on
Distributor is still tight
The simple double checks.

All good ?  It's time to pull the plugs from your injectors so you are not spraying fuel into cylinders.

Next pull all the plugs out.
Look for signs of coolant on your plugs/cylinders (head gasket) if not?
Next due compression test.

U would double check all basic symptoms before any major surgery!

If original timing components or old? Guides could be worn out and timing chain could have skipped. Hard to tell until you get into it. Whatever it is make sure not to just throw parts on and hope it's all good now.  You need to inspect inspect and find the problem 100% and fix it.

If you do  dig in  l suggest you get rid of balance shafts and install the bsek. Along w new timing components. For simplicity and better oil pressure.

Dra



Edited by croquest87, 02 August 2019 - 06:21 AM.


#18 TroyStarion

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Posted 02 August 2019 - 07:20 AM

View Postcroquest87, on 02 August 2019 - 06:07 AM, said:

Things to double check:
All plugs are tight
All ign wires on
Distributor is still tight
The simple double checks.

All good ?  It's time to pull the plugs from your injectors so you are not spraying fuel into cylinders.

Next pull all the plugs out.
Look for signs of coolant on your plugs/cylinders (head gasket) if not?
Next due compression test.

U would double check all basic symptoms before any major surgery!

If original timing components or old? Guides could be worn out and timing chain could have skipped. Hard to tell until you get into it. Whatever it is make sure not to just throw parts on and hope it's all good now.  You need to inspect inspect and find the problem 100% and fix it.

If you do  dig in  l suggest you get rid of balance shafts and install the bsek. Along w new timing components. For simplicity and better oil pressure.

Dra

Engine is rebuilt with 800 miles, balance shafts are removed as well as a NJV head... will do those tonight.
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#19 tsi_tom

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Posted 02 August 2019 - 07:35 AM

I would check the grounds to the block and injection system.  The pickup coil resistance on the distributor and the temperature coolant sensor.  Are the vacuum lines good and routed correctly?
Is the distributor put in correctly for timing?
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#20 tsi_tom

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Posted 02 August 2019 - 07:37 AM

http://www.starquest...13#entry1503834
Engine
20 over forged pistons
Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project




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