seanc77339 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Hello fellow tristarions: ONe of my injectors on my 87 is not receiving signal and I was wondering if there is a true way to test the wiring leading to the injector from the computer without having to completely rip the whole length of wiring out of the car?? If there is a short/rust spot, how can someone splice out the bad spot and splice in a new wire without completely messing up the conductivity?? I believe it is a short because a 9v battery will open the injector and allow gas to spray out but with injector clip connected correctly to car the injector will not open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) Do a continuity test from the injector pigtail to it's corresponding pin on the ECU. You will want to see if you are getting fire at the injector, I reccomend first checking for juice. You should see 12V whenever the key is on at one side, the injector drivers in the ECU switch it off the ground. If you have power, proceed to the continuity check. A noid light kit is cheap, and might save you some time as well. Plug one into the injector pigtail, crank, watch for pulse. If you get a pulse, it is likely that you simply have a bad connection at the injector. Tim Edited June 26, 2011 by UlrichWolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Try an electrician, or best bet an alarm system installer they used an inducer to send a signal thru the wire and an audio reciever to pin point the break in the wire on my secondary injector. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holeysocks Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Try an electrician, or best bet an alarm system installer they used an inducer to send a signal thru the wire and an audio reciever to pin point the break in the wire on my secondary injector. DadI think it is called a Fox and Hound I have seen them on E-Bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 87-89s only use the smaller nozzle injector for starting, idle and cruise until the rpms are high enough or there is boost that causes the second larger injector to open. Is that why you think its not working? Put your volt meter probes on the injector clip while its plugged in and the car idling now quickly open the throttle and you should see that it fires. If you open the throttle slowly it won't. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/14-13.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc77339 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 87-89s only use the smaller nozzle injector for starting, idle and cruise until the rpms are high enough or there is boost that causes the second larger injector to open. Is that why you think its not working? Put your volt meter probes on the injector clip while its plugged in and the car idling now quickly open the throttle and you should see that it fires. If you open the throttle slowly it won't. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/14-13.jpg I believe it is not working because the car hits a "hard wall" and will not accelerate (anymore) in first gear or any gear past the infamous 3K rpm mark. Thanks for all the help so far,SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Mine did the same thing, the secondary injector wire was broken just forward of the battery, long wires to check continuity verified a break somewhere, the inducer traced to where the break was, Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 That could be your distributor or vacuum advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc77339 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 That could be your distributor or vacuum advance. Is there anyway to test these?? ThanksSC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Pull the cap, suck on the hose and watch the arm pull in then cover the end of the hose with your tongue and it must stay pulled in. If not, replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc77339 Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 it was a wiring short...had to cut back the secondary wiring harness a foot back just to get a signal. Noid light was a blessing in disguise. SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 The ends off ALL the sensors are that way too. Its what throws the resistance readings off, this changes the voltage the ECU sees and throws those "codes" then people run and say oh I need a MAF or I need a CTS. You need to read what the ECU sees then check the sensor and the wiring on this car sucks because of its AGE, its rotten. It was poorly wrapped up and the strands corrode from the open end and just go right up under the insulation and if you put new injector clips on a corroded wire you just wasted your time. That wire must be clean bright copper strands not black crusty rotten ones. You can stand there and try to tell people this until you are blue in the face and they won't pay any attention because its a "wiring problem" and they can't use a volt meter and get scared. I know people that won't open the hood of their car because they think the battery might explode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Yes, very good pooints Indiana! Even the water tight connections are suspect at this age. It pays to pull back the connector rubber insulator and check for corrosion and or burned spots there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc77339 Posted November 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 THanks for all the help fellow starquesters. I stripped back both wires until I could see shiny metal and hooked them back up. Fingers crossed to see if that was the main cause. These cars are full of auto gremlins. SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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