Blissland3

S&M made the best set. I don't know if they're still doing that but you might find one used.

If somebody buys them to flip I might be interested in the automatic. Depending on the condition and the price.

Thanks. I replied.

I neglected to mention before ... it's for a '87 without intercooler. I'm looking for a 12a or 14g or 16g in either newly refurbished or very good working condition. Are the inlet and outlet diameters and the installation procedure identical for the 14g and 16g and stock? Thanks. -Chris

The radio doesn't bother me and I like it already has a strut brace in front. Fat sway bars would be really nice if it's got them. But I am concerned about that wire taped to the air box. What's going on there? At first glance it looks like trouble. And yeah it would be nice to see the exhaust tip.

Do you have some idea what it would cost to replace the stalk and the headlight motors and how many hours of labor it would require? And I might need shipping if I bought it. I've been looking at the car for a couple of weeks but hesitating to inquire because it's not exactly what I'm looking for and it's further away than I would like to drive ... but for $1,000 it might be worth it. But I need to have a realistic idea what the repairs would cost in a shop. Also please tell me the diameter of the exhaust. Thanks. -Chris

I did see that white one ... it could be a good project for someone but I'm really looking for something that needs as little work as possible initially. And the colors are important because I'm trying to resurrect the one I lost. Which was red with black.

For whatever reason Nate if that's his name never got back to me after posting that ... so I'm still looking.

Now I wish I had kept some of those parts especially the sway bars and strut braces because I may be getting another '88 TSi to replace my beloved Sabrina.

Thanks.

Hi ... I'm looking for an automatic in good running condition. I know it's a needle in a haystack but I thought it couldn't hurt to mention. Every day I lament the loss of my first one which I destroyed 4 1/2 years ago. Worst day of my life. It's very hard to live without. But I'm determined to bring her back. Ideal is a red '88 TSi but I would consider anything with an intercooler and automatic transmission in good shape mechanically. Well modified would be a bonus but badly modified is a deal breaker. I've been through that already. The exception is I definitely don't want an aftermarket fuel system. Injectors are ok but not the computer. I need a mas and isc. And no mystery problems. The closer to ulster county new york the better. I realize I might be waiting a long time but I'll wait as long as it takes. Depending on the price I might need to apply for a loan. But I do have a '96 bmw 328i sedan in good condition which I would be happy to trade. It's running fine, pulls better than a stock Starion, the only problem is it's a bmw. Thank you for any interest you might have. Please don't be offended if I don't respond immediately because I can't get here every day. -Chris

Sold. Finally. Glad my relationship with that car is effectively over. But I will always miss Sabrina madly. My TSi. R.I.P.

It looked that way when I bought it. I was more concerned with the performance but unfortunately that turned out to be just as bad as the body. I was misled. I'm sure someone could get it to run well with enough perserverence or at least part it out for a profit.

I've started a new topic with pictures for the same car. I'll be monitoring this personally so there won't be any unwarranted delays. http://www.starquest...howtopic=142626

1987 Gold Mitsubishi Starion LE flatbody for sale Fair Warning / Disclaimer : This is highly modified with automatic transmission. Below are listed the problems (according to me) as well as the modifications (according to the previous owner). I am in Kingston, New York. MODIFICATIONS: The driver seat has been moved back to provide more leg room and welded in an upright position. (April 2013) "Stainless" exhaust is a misnomer. It may be steel but it's hardly stainless. Engine, etc.: Shaved/lightened block inside and out, never bored, deletedbalance shafts Balanced rods with ARP rod bolts New stock Perfect Circle pistons with Hastings Chrome rings,King main and rod bearings Lightened one-piece 83 crank pulley, entire rotating assembly balanced Clearwater NJV head,ported, 1mm O/S SS valves, 3-angle valvejob, intake rockers lightened, ARP studs for intake and exhaust, ARP headstuds, shaved and powdercoated valvecover, Schneider 274 cam, powdercoated timing cover, EGR passages welded 14G turbo, ported and Swain-Tec coated turbo housing ,stress relieved, shaved, ported and Swain-Tec coated exhaust manifold Braided oil and water turbo lines Braided oil cooler lines 2.5 Stainless MK1 turbo back exhaust, Dynamax Ultraflow 6in. round SS muffler Custom hardpipes all the way from turbo to TB, siliconecouplers and T-clamps, HKS racing BOV 52mm TB, ported injector housing. Ported and powdercoated intake manifold, EGRpassages deleted/welded FIP TB-Pro2R standalone fuel management (sensors, harness,injectors, fuel rail) Walbro fuel pump, braided fuel lines from firewall up, Russell fuel filter, Mallory 6A ignition box, MSD tach adapter, Magnacor wires Optima battery, 2 gauge ground cables, 110 amp alternatorwith circuit breaker and 2 gauge charge cable, fuse box instead of fusiblelinks Aluminum BeCool radiator, flexfan, aux. rad. Fan, silicone heater hoses HD rebuild on auto tranny, custom valve body, Level 103200Rpm stall converter, bigger cooler with braided lines Over $300 in SS metric bolts in engine compartment andthroughout car Suspension: 4-to-5 lug conversion, bigger Cross-drilled and slottedrotors, painted calipers F/R with Speed bleeders installed, SS brake lines F/R ’88 rear end and 6-boltaxles. 7in rims front, 8in rear. 205/50Falken tires front 225/45 rear KYB struts F/R S/T springs and swaybars F/R Cusco camber plates front, Anti-M power camber plates rear. S&M triangulated strut bars F/R All polyurethane bushings in front suspension. Manual steering conversion, welded coupler. Interior: Freshly upholstered front 88 seats, Corbeau driver harness,non-auto seatbelt driver trim. Custom dash lens with insert and side blockoffs, Bride 320mmsteering wheel Autometer fuel press. and boost gauge, Halmeter af30 A/F ratio meter 88 black HVAC controls, cupholders in door panels, customrubber diamond plate floor mats, racing pedal covers, fire extinguisher intrunk , Pioneer speakers Body: Supra style hatch wing, deleted auto antenna/roof mountedHirschmann amplified antenna, LED bulbs throughout the car, Silverstarheadlights, clear foglights Custom hood vents and custom hood lifts Cut and re-welded front bumper support, custom bumper andfront spoiler for larger intercooler opening Problems requiring attention (7/30/13 except where indicated): 1. (2/26/14) A heater hose or more likely the heater core exploded and spilled coolant all over the cabin floor. That has to be diagnosed and repaired before you even attempt to start the engine. It would require a full day of work opening up the interior front panel. The instrument cluster and wiring harness might have been damaged, as well as the FCU. So you'll probably want to tow it away. 2. Engine stalls frequently without throttle input especially when cold. ISC is absent because it is incompatible with the aftermarket fuel system. Turbo lag and especially slow throttle response are pronounced. The throttle cable is frayed and probably stretched out. The throttle body might need replacement. The fuel map needs judicious tuning. It requires the MegaSquirt software or something compatible. A serial cable or serial-USB adapter is required to connect your portable computer to the ECU (located under the glove box). You must know what you're doing or the car can easily be rendered non-functional. 3. The brakes have several issues yet to be diagnosed. Response is not smooth/linear making proper driving technique impossible. The rear do nothing when the pedal is depressed although the hand brake moves one of the caliper pistons. Power assist comes on suddenly but if you press the pedal to the floor the wheels spin freely. Rather dangerous. No vacuum is being reserved. The master cylinder and front discs and pads and vacuum valve were recently replaced but had no effect. 4. Passenger side frame rail has a 16" rotten section. 7. Rust holes in skirting panels on either side. Right side front end (body only) is badly banged up from a collision while parked. Also the entire body needs finishing. 8. Rear bumper is skewed and appears rotten underneath. 9. Steering wheel squeaks and has about an inch or more of play. Not sure how that translates to degrees ... maybe 10 or more. ISSUES OF WHICH I AM AWARE (2/20/14) Throttle cable needs replacement a.s.a.p. Shifter linkage needs repair Parking brake cable needs replacement Oil pressure gauge needs repair No heat going to heater Coolant temperature rises too high before stabilising Spark plugs no doubt are fouled (I cannot guarantee anti-seize was applied to the threads either) Fuel system needs tuning badly Fuel pressure is erratic (Fuel pressure regulator was replaced but it didn't fix anything) Distributor vacuum advance module possibly needs replacement Tends to stall since there is no ISC to compensate for other issues (I'm keeping the idle high until this is addressed although it could go higher still) Apparently no hydraulic pressure to rear brake lines Front brakes function erratically (possibly a vacuum issue and possibly related to the ABS bypass) Exhaust system needs extensive repair or replacement (bent and twisted and the downpipe is making contact with the engine block and the muffler is skewed to the right side) Passenger side frame rail needs repair Ignition wires possibly need replacement (can't say for sure if intermittent misfiring is due to electrical or fuel delivery) Filters need replacement Fuel pump possibly needs replacement Piston rings possibly need replacement (evidently some blow-by) Valve seals possibly need replacement (can only get worse over time) Balance shaft cover gasket definitely needs replacement (leaking fluids) Cylinder head gasket possibly needs replacement Timing chain cover gasket possibly needs replacement Transmission is not connected properly (torque converter bangs around ... may be impossible to fix without re-mounting the motor) Rear shock absorbers and bump stops need replacement Rear tires need replacement soon (all-season 225/45-16 are no longer available) Entire body needs everything