mykwest

Still available.

I’ve had this car for 6 years and had just started the V8 swap a month ago when I cut a deal with my wife. She says that if I don’t build this car now and sell it instead, I can get a new WRX in 3 years. So I’m selling my beloved ‘quest. Link to pictures: http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/paddlernate/library/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion It’s a beige 1987 Starion widebody with 86K miles. The engine was toast when I bought it so I yanked it and sold it – 2.6L ENGINE IS GONE! The tranny, and everything else, is still in it. The drivetrain doesn’t leak, brakes still work, etc. It’s a good roller. The body is virtually rust free- things just don’t rust here in the Pacific Northwest! The body is really straight overall, but there are a few minor dings, and the paint is in pretty poor shape on the passenger side. Looks like someone spilled a bottle of brake fluid on the roof, and it ran down the side of the car. The paint is pretty splotchy on the corner of the roof. The rear hatch is from another car- its silver, with poorly tinted windows and has the Conquest badge. The front bumper is also from another car, and you can see red paint in a couple spots where the beige has peeled off. So, basically, this car needs a paint job. The black interior is in great shape and is totally complete. No tears in the seats, carpet or headliner. My plan for this car was to do a carbureted 5.0/302 Ford swap. I’ve acquired most of the major parts required for the swap and can include them in this purchase. I have a ’96 302 from an Explorer with ~160K miles. It’s partially disassembled- I’ve pulled the heads and cam, and everything was in good shape. I’ve sold the GT-40 intake manifolds and have none of the fuel injection components (harness etc). PLEASE DON’T ASK ME IF I HAVE THE FUEL INJECTION STUFF- I DON’T. I have the following new parts for the engine: complete gasket kit, timing chain, oil pump, water pump, mechanical fuel pump, motor mounts, front sump oil pan I also have a T-5 manual transmission from an ’89 Mustang GT w/ ~140K miles, and the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I’m located in Portland, OR and would be willing to work with you to arrange shipping this at your expense. Please email me with any questions you might have- I don’t check this board often. paddlernate@yahoo.com Asking $1700 for everything or $800 for just the rolling chassis. http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/paddlernate/library/1987%20Mitsubishi%20Starion

Is there any way to tell from the outside if I have an LSD? I know I can jack it up and spin the wheels, but I was just curious if there's an easier way. Also, its an '87 Starion ESI-R- is there any truth to all of the ESI-R's coming with LSDs?

PM sent

Bought an '87 Starion to perform V-8 swap. The car has 88K miles. Looking to sell the engine and trans. The engine is totally stock and after the head gasket blew, the previous owner disassembled the top end. I still have all the parts. Bottom end is in good condition and still intact. Head and turbo are in GC. 5-speed trans is in good shape. PM or call 503-752-1918. The parts are in Portland, OR, and I will ship.

I'm new to posting on this board, but have been reading it for over five years, so please don't mistake my newbie status for lack of knowledge. I worked at Incon Systems from the prototype phase, through production, all the way 'til they closed their doors. This was the most highly-regarded twin turbo kit for 5.0's and 4.6's ever built, so I have some good background in turbo 5.0's. Your build is a massive undertaking, and I'm sure has taxed your time and wallet accordingly. As such, I can understand you making some compromises in your design, but I'd like to make a couple of suggestions, if not for you, for your readers. I have much respect for your build, I just want to interject. 1. An intercooler would dramatically lower your intake air temp, reduce detonation, and might save your head gaskets. 2. A proper tune is equally as important, as I think you already know. The best way to control the fuel on these motors is to re-calibrate the MAS. 3. Bump your initial timing back a couple of degrees from stock. 4. Your injectors are quite large. You'd find better driveability and more tunability with 32's. 5. You are definitely exceeding the limits of the stock block with your power goals. Unless you want to grenade it, I'd recommend limiting your boost to ~ 7 lbs. These blocks and bottom ends are good for about 450 hp, 500 is pushing it, and you're already over that number. Again, I'm just trying to give some input to this already impressive build. I'd like to see you drive it without breaking stuff and plowing through headgaskets. At 450-500 hp, you'll have one of the most powerful, streetable, reliable Starquests on the planet. Call it good enough and focus on the reliable part. I might be preaching to the choir here, but when I started working at Incon, my boss gave me a copy of "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. This is the be all, end all of how-to turbo books. Everyone who tweaks Starquests, especially with custom systems like yours, should read this book. How do these cars handle with the V8 up front? I read that the weight is comparable, which surprises me, but the location of the engine would seem to effect handling/braking to some degree. Do you experience a lot of nose dive under braking or body roll in corners? I'm building a NA 5.0 Starquest of my own... your project has literally talked me out of turbos! It brought back all the bad memories and only a couple of the good ones (way more time spent wrenching than driving) I just want to drive this thing and 300-350 is good enough for me. Like I said, MUCH respect for your project. Good luck with it.