kev's Conquest #7
Posted 08 March 2021 - 07:15 PM
2016, 17, 19 SCCA Solo, Glen Region Season Champion in Street Modified
The Valencia Project
My Feedback Link
Posted 09 March 2021 - 08:15 AM
$835.40 (yes, i'm keeping close track). That includes the title transfer and the uhaul trailer to bring it home on. $664.45 without those two items.
Not bad to revive a car that has been dormant for 24 years.
Posted 09 March 2021 - 12:05 PM
1988 Conquest TSi ...
1987 Conquest Flatty ...
1987 Conquest TSi ...
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread
Posted 15 March 2021 - 08:02 AM
I again pressure tested the coolant system fully cold. I let it sit at 13psi for over an hour - SAT. Fired it up again and let it run for a good 45 minutes at idle. It really runs nice and smooth. Did a TPS/ISC reset
Adjusted the shifter linkage and fixed the reverse lights. Bled out the PS, it no longer groans. I found that my alternator was either not charging or barely charging. I swapped in a used spare - SAT. Connected the e-Brake (was unhooked up at the lever from when I freed up the rear calipers), works great!
The only lingering bigger issue is that I still don't have headlights. I have high beams, just not low. I have 12V to the green wire on both headlights. But if I put my voltmeter to the G and RW wires, I don't have power (indicating no ground on the RW wire). But if I try the G and R wires with the highs on, I get 12V. So I don't believe it is something as simple as just dead bulbs. I'm leaning to the cluster switch but need to troubleshoot it a bit more. Minor in the grand scheme of things but definitely needed to get the car on the road.
Going to retorque the head and pressure test one more time. If SAT, I'll be dropping the oil. I normally drop the oil after just the first startup on a rebuilt engine but I want to make sure I truly don't have a head gasket issue first. I'll be changing the oil on my blue conquest as well. Now that this black one is running, I can actually get the blue one out of the garage!
Posted 22 March 2021 - 06:17 AM
Fired them both up and got them out of the garage. It looks pretty ugly next to that shiny blue one, haha
Is it bad that I wanted to drive the black one more than the blue one? Something about driving an old beater that you resurrected....you don't mind the 'little' things that don't quite work right..something that drives you nuts if in a new or fully restored car. But can't drive the black one on the road yet, so took out the blue one for a nice long cruise in a nice 60 degree weekend. As a result, I didn't do too much more to the black car this weekend.
Posted 31 March 2021 - 10:58 AM
Then I ran into the same problem I had on my other car, the wipers wouldn't return home when stopped. Also, when you put it on intermittent, it would move 45% across the window and stop, then move some more, and stop. But never return to the home position. I figured I'd post a few photos on how to fix this.
First step is to make sure there is a good ground. The electronics relies on the ground thru the motor housing to function. The motor housing is mounted on the plate when gets bolted to our firewall. Also the plate has isolators on its mounts to allow some motion during wiper operation which prevents the ground to chassis. But what Mitsu did is add a small U clamp on one of the bolt holes. I've seen it either in the middle or the far left side, depending on the car. This clamp grounds the plate to the mounting bolt, essentially providing the completion of the ground to the chassis. long story short, make sure the clamp is there and that it is nice and clean:
Here is is taken a part. You can see some corrosion on it as well as the plate.
Cleaning it up and the plate
Bolting it back up. Make sure the spacer is in the grommet. Without it, the bolt can't be tightened.
I did run a little dielectric grease over it in the end to prevent corrosion. You could go about that in any way your prefer.
Fixing the ground helped but didn't solve the issue. It would 'try' to return to home every few operations. I then opened up the gear case (3 phillips head screws). It was covered in dirty grease. Sorry, I didn't capture a picture of when I first opened it. I went right a head and started cleaning, but see that blackish grease? it was covering the entire mechanism. You couldn't even see the brass plates on the gear when I first opened it.
It is very important that those two leads on the cover contact these brass plates. It runs on a similar operation as our power antenna. When the relay is energized, the contacts keep power until the motor goes one full revolution. As the one lead falls off of the larger brass plate, it stops (home position). So if these aren't making contact, the relay gives it power for a brief moment but then stops (which is why the wipers go up 45% of the window and simply stop until the relay clicks in again.
Cleaning these connections up good. I wiped them down first with a cloth to get rid of the bulk and then went over it with alcohol.
And adding some new dielectric grease.
make sure those two leads are not all bent up and reassemble. You may run into a situation where the wipers don't really return exactly to the home position. They may be too far up or down. I found that you may need to bend those leads a little and experiment to get it to stop where you want it too.
On a similar note, I fixed the headlights. it was indeed the column switch (turn signal/high beam switch). This switch provides the ground for the headlights in both low and high position. It to was all gunked up and preventing a good ground for low beams. That simply took a slight disassembly and cleaning with some electrical contact cleaner.
I think that I am done with the mechanicals on this car for the time being. I took it out for another drive and everything is working well. Time to start the body work.
Posted 07 April 2021 - 08:49 AM
Right hand side starting point:
Left hand side starting point
First step was to remove that filler to see what I was working with:
As I was working on the right hand side, I see that the former owner ground down rust, filled the void with spray foam, and placed filler over. The hole was much larger than I expected. I'm trying to figure out why the car just rotted in these localized areas. It is such a rust free car everywhere else. This doesn't make sense to me
Bits of spray foam that were falling out as I was cleaning off the filler:
Here is the left hand side
Clearing out the trunk area and looking in from the top revealed just a little bit of spray foam! That definitely had to be removed, I'm not striking an arc with that in there...next to the fuel tank no-less.
Luckily, it came out pretty easy by simply reaching my hand down there and breaking off chunks of it. Then I used acetone to clean up the residual. Here is the outcome:
The other side didn't have as much foam but was so much harder to access. Had to remove the power antenna and come in through that location. Notice how the drain hose for the antenna just went into the foam.
This side was much more tedious but I got it pretty good. I'll clean it up even more after I cut out the rusted sections
Starting on the right side, I began shaping a piece of sheet metal to the rough contour. Couple of tack welds aided in this.
Shaping a little more. It's getting close. This is a difficult area with all of the bends.
After some more shaping and a few tack welds.
I still need to work it some more. I will most likely make it smaller, at least lengthwise. I don't need to remove that much of the original steel but I want to get it past the 'curve'. Once I get it shaped exactly how I want it, I'll mark the panel to cut out the old steel. Not sure if I will replace the flange (wheel lip) on this one yet or not. If I do, it will be a separate piece. I won't try to bend the end of this piece yet again. There are too many bends in this part alone, I'd create a new lip and weld it to the new patch piece upon assembly. Also, I'll have to address the rust holes in the inner wheel well once I cut out the bad steel.
More to come, this is always time consuming but I enjoy the fab work.
cool little thing that I found when opening up the hatch area to access the wheel wells...I found another oem center cap. Very minor, but I was stoked to find it.
Posted 12 April 2021 - 07:26 AM
Cut down my patch panel and mocked up in place for marking:
Old section cut out. Now I can finally see the extent of the rust on the inner sections. Honestly, it isn't bad at all.
First patch section formed and marked
Second patch section being formed
First one welded in and second cut out and being positioned
Welded and some light grinding. I was going to grind it smooth but why? It will never be seen
I can access this from the inside to seal it well after welding but I sprayed it with some weld thru primer just in case
Main patch section clamped up and ready for tacking
Welded up...all except the flange side
Trimming and forming the flange side. I retained the original flange for it had no rust at all
Welded and ground
Didn't come out bad. It will definitely need some filler to smooth it out and shape that corner a little bit better. If I was a better fabricator, I probably could have got it closer to the original but I think it came out good for an amateur starting with just a flat piece of sheet metal.
Now to redo the process for the drivers side. I'll be coming back to this with filler once I get all the welding done on the car.
Posted 12 April 2021 - 05:50 PM
Posted 13 April 2021 - 06:53 AM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users