TheAxeGod

PM/paypal sent for seatbelts. Thanks. -Axe

I need front shoulder seatbelts and battery holder shipped to 09494 (APO).

Can I get the automatic seatbelts? I really just need the driver, but would like both. Mine are frayed really bad. Thanks! -Whit

BUMP. Nobody has one of these bulb sockets laying around? I'm just going to drop it off tomorrow to get light conversion and inspection and pray I can get it working I guess if they write me up. -Axe

I forgot to clarify, shoulder belt. And yes, I just need teh light sockets, should be a pretty common part to get I would think! I did pull off the lenses to take out teh outer red lense, so I could have an amber bulb for blinkers, and that was a pain, but got it done. Then I remembered about the grounding issue for the lights

My taillight assemblies on my 88 (where the bulbs go lol) are really rusted, and i'm having some grounding issues. I attempted to fix them, but the right one is really bad off. I need the right (passenger) primarily, but wouldn't mind having both. I also need a rear defroster switch, top part of the fuel mixer, fuel supply hose, turn signal switch (in steering column), driver's side seat belt...I guess that's it. Make me some realistic offers and I'll scoop up some parts. I'm over in England now, and they 'actually' do inspections so I'm fixing everything that I can, especially the lights; thanks in advance guys. To clarify, I have an APO address, so it's like shipping to NJ, so shipping won't be a concern, besides a customs form. APO, AE 09494-0013 -Axe

Here's what I'd like to get before I get this car ready to ship to England, it's currently getting repainted -MAF with hard pipe to turbo -Piping for stock IC (or perhaps include the IC) -Main fuel hose going to throttle body from filter -Downpipe for stock turbo -Turn signal handle from steering wheel (I guess that's easy to replace) -Already cleared out taillights, or some with the far red part removed (I need the edges to be amber) I think this is all I need for now, the rest is cosmetic and I can put a post to buy a lot of that stuff later. The sooner the better, as I only have a few weeks left before I leave--I decided pretty late on to keep her! Just shoot me a reasonable price and I'll grab it if you have it to sell. Thanks so much guys; it's nice to be part of the club, even though I haven't been too active. I blame the wife and kids -Whit

My car is getting painted right now, when I get all my parts back, I would have a very rough looking nose piece (between headlights) that was red, with a black bumper cover and black or red plastic piece above that, all in one piece but not perfect of course. What's it worth to you? I can ship as early as monday from Florida. And I can get pics tomorrow after work.

Still available? PM me the paypal address and I'll take it.

Same. I'm going to England and I have to have amber rear blinkers, so some clear taillights would be perfect! Thanks if you have any left or advice. -Axe

I sent the pic to your email. If you didn't get it, then how much for just the light switch cluster and fusible link box. And do you accept paypal? Axe

I need the A/C pressure switch (that allows the condenser fan to operate), the light cluster switches and the fusible link box shipped to 32539. Let me know. Thanks. Axe

Want the cluster cover, had a few buttons break on me. Whats the price and shipping to 32539, FL I can pay paypal. -Axe

Well, I have the JVE kit installed in the last three cylinders, and so far, I drove to work (50 miles) and everything was kosher. BUT, to feel safer about that weld breaking, I do wnat to remove the first jet valve without disassembling the head...i tried everything and can't get anything on it, anyone have ideas? Only thing I thought might work is a 14mm 1/4" drive socket, my 3/8 do not fit, nor can you get a wrench on the head of the jet valve. The top of the valve is missing, its welded at the nut portion...seems to run fine, but I just don't feel safe since the other two broke. Thanks for all the help guys! -Axe

Hmm...I was having lots of trouble with ignition with my new engine. Just some simple checks to perform: (You'll need two people for this) and it won't hurt to download the 88 Factory Service Manual (FSM), there's a link somewhere in the FAQ 1) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and hold it about one inch from one of your shock bolts or other ground, you should have some sparkies going on while cranking. (Also, disconnect fuel injectors to prevent saturating the cylinders) 2) If no spark is present, ohm out the coil. First tag and remove the wires from the coil. From Pos to Neg, you should have 1.12-1.38ohm, mine was like 1.45ohm and still works so somewhere in the ballpark. 3) Then 9.4-12.7(K)ohm should be present from the Pos to the Coil Wire plug. 4) Check main engine ground below Intake (follow the big black/yellow wire from neg. terminal). If it looks shady, won't hurt to replace that for about 10$. A bad ground can cause lots of issues....especially if you forget to hook that up If there WAS spark when you grounded out the coil wire, definitely check the cap and rotor, another 10-15$ to replace. You can also remove a spark plug, connect it to a wire and get it close to a ground while cranking and it should produce spark. If it does, check/replace plug wires..also can't hurt to replace plugs..only 1.75$ a piece. And if all that passes and no start, probably out of time which can be addressed on this site or in that 88 FSM. Let us know what works and doesn't work. -Axe