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12.0 or 12.5 A/F for GM MAF


Car6on14
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Just got my GM MAF and MAFT installed, looking to do some tuning tomorrow, but the links I had saved from the old forum arent working. I had one for the GM MAF install that had a pic of what the settings were and a few others about where your a/f should be, if I remember correctly it should be 12 to 12.5 bc two of our cylinders run lean right? My idle doesnt seem to have changed, but I havent done any driving yet...
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Just got my GM MAF and MAFT installed, looking to do some tuning tomorrow, but the links I had saved from the old forum arent working. I had one for the GM MAF install that had a pic of what the settings were and a few others about where your a/f should be, if I remember correctly it should be 12 to 12.5 bc two of our cylinders run lean right? My idle doesnt seem to have changed, but I havent done any driving yet...

 

Heres my settings:

 

12.5 at idle.

11.5 at midrange.

11.0 at WOT.

Better too rich than too lean!!!!

 

Yours are up to you.

 

 

CALIBER 308

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thanks cal, how much would you say is to lean? and under what conditions, ive been reading this: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1595/article.html Also, do you remember where the dials in ur Translator are at. Man i really wish I had access to that old thread to install the MAFT. Edited by Car6on14
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thanks cal, how much would you say is to lean? and under what conditions, ive been reading this: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1595/article.html Also, do you remember where the dials in ur Translator are at. Man i really wish I had access to that old thread to install the MAFT.

 

Go here: www.ongreenperformance.com Tell them you purchased their Maf-Translator but lost the installation instructions and if they could, please send you a new set. Its worth a try. As far as the lean question, I can tell you what my AEM UEGO instructions say:

 

At 16.00 A/F reading on my gauge, your lean. And at 11.00 A/F reading, your rich.

 

 

Also,theres a write up in the Engine and Performance Mods Forum by Josh (Page 7 ) on this site. Lots of good information.

 

 

Good Luck,

CALIBER 308

Edited by Caliber308
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Well I went for a few runs today, mine doesnt seem to easy to tune, its weird seems like my tune changes even when im not changing anything... My idle a/f was around 11 then a fan turned on and it went up to 12 ish. WOT seems ok, but mid is really bouncing around from 11 to 14, not sure if it bad tune or sensor etc. I found I have another issue tho, looks like im pushing 15psi on the stock waste gate, its seems to hold 7 psi up to mid 4k then im not sure if its bc of my porting & 3 " *DM but i spike to about 15 psi until redline.
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just found the MAFT isntall on page 7, thank caliber. Forgot one thing, the lines going to the vac pump with the white one way check vavles, which way are those little arrows suppose to point any idea? I have what seems to be good vac at idle, about 17, tho seemed like they maybe wrong. What is that for, vac under boost?
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The check valves are supposed to let engine/intake manifold vacuum act on the dash vents and the cruise control system... and they block boost pressure FROM the manifold to those systems. So orient the check valves so air flows towards the intake manifold port. Simple/quick way: hook everything up except the last vac hose from the check valve to the intake manifold. Stick a short/clean hose into that end of the check valve and suck on it... air should flow for a moment; blow on it and nothing should flow. If that passes, plug the last vac hose into the check valve and you're done.

 

mike c.

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thanks mike, seems like my setup is correct then. Now to look into the next issue that has appeared, im getting some pretty high boost spiking. Seems like my 14g is spooling up around 3500 and hold 7 psi till about 4500, but then its spiking to 15/16 psi until redline, w/ stock wastegate. Im not sure why or what to do. I did port the intake and the turbo by removing the ring in each, and I do like the additional power im getting out of it, all without the need for a boost controller! my concern is whether or not this is safe for the eng, i was just reading this thread and it seems like some say 16 psi is safe and some say it is not...

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72995

Edited by Car6on14
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16psi may or may not be safe on your engine. It depends on how healthy the whole fuel system is... each car is a little different. Some cars will run for months at that boost; others will burn pistons quickly.

 

It does sound like your wastegate is too small - not the vacuum/pressure actuator bolted to the outside of the turbo - I'm talking about the little door in the exhaust end of the turbo that is opened/closed by the actuator. It has a metal disk about the size of a quarter that covers a much smaller hole. You can grind that hole a bit bigger to give the wastegate more authority at higher exhaust flows to keep the turbo boost under control.

 

mike c.

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thanks mike, seems like my setup is correct then. Now to look into the next issue that has appeared, im getting some pretty high boost spiking. Seems like my 14g is spooling up around 3500 and hold 7 psi till about 4500, but then its spiking to 15/16 psi until redline, w/ stock wastegate. Im not sure why or what to do. I did port the intake and the turbo by removing the ring in each, and I do like the additional power im getting out of it, all without the need for a boost controller! my concern is whether or not this is safe for the eng, i was just reading this thread and it seems like some say 16 psi is safe and some say it is not...

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72995

A 14 g should spool way be for 3500. If you can't control the boost, pressure test the wast gate actuator and hose. Your boost controller may be junk or some one may have shortened the actuator arm.

 

Multiple problems here. I would remove the maft and bypass any boost controller you may have till you sort out the boost regulation problem and the timing problem mentioned in the other thread. The ported manifold, turbine housing and 3" exhauste is not the problem.

 

I would shift at no more than 5500 or your setup. A 14g car is pretty much done at 5000 rpm.

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I have my stock 12a i can compare the waste gate arm too or swap even. I dont have a boost controller installed. I bought the 14g used from a guy who wanted to use it on a 240 but didnt... so i dont kno its history, is there any way i could tell if it has been upgraded to something else, 16g etc?
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