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can't remove oil primer plug


chiplee
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That little allen head plug down by the water pump jackets and oil filter is what I'm talking about. The one in the block that smart people use to prime a new engine before they crank it.

 

I wanted to remove it and install an oil pressure sending unit in that hole, but it won't come out. Should I bother or should I just let the factory gauge go and install the new sender in the old sender's spot? I like the idea of having two places monitoring oil pressure but I'd rather have the aftermarket gauge.

 

Oh and would the factory gauge work off of the aftermarket sending unit if I wired it up to it? My normal instrument scan is going to be across the factory gauge until I get in the habit of looking at the autometer gauge. Don't want it sitting at zero.

Edited by chiplee
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That little allen head plug down by the water pump jackets and oil filter is what I'm talking about. The one in the block that smart people use to prime a new engine before they crank it.

 

I wanted to remove it and install an oil pressure sending unit in that hole, but it won't come out. Should I bother or should I just let the factory gauge go and install the new sender in the old sender's spot? I like the idea of having two places monitoring oil pressure but I'd rather have the aftermarket gauge.

 

Oh and would the factory gauge work off of the aftermarket sending unit if I wired it up to it? My normal instrument scan is going to be across the factory gauge until I get in the habit of looking at the autometer gauge. Don't want it sitting at zero.

 

 

Use a torch to heat up the area. Then press some Bees Wax on the area. The bees wax go's into the crack. Should come out then.

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Use a torch to heat up the area. Then press some Bees Wax on the area. The bees wax go's into the crack. Should come out then.

 

 

where do I get this "bee's wax" autozone? some kind of penetrating oil won't do?

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If you have access, hit it with a hammer (not all crazy like) to break the thread sealent seal. Also, heat will soften the thread sealant, try to remove it while still hot. Doing both will get it out for sure.

 

I T'd mine many years ago on the stock port. I ha dboth teh stock and aftermarket gage on teh same stock port, but the stock port is 1/8 BSPT, not NPT so it's hard to get the first 2 threads started. Once started, they seal up fine though.

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If you have access, hit it with a hammer (not all crazy like) to break the thread sealent seal. Also, heat will soften the thread sealant, try to remove it while still hot. Doing both will get it out for sure.

 

I T'd mine many years ago on the stock port. I ha dboth teh stock and aftermarket gage on teh same stock port, but the stock port is 1/8 BSPT, not NPT so it's hard to get the first 2 threads started. Once started, they seal up fine though.

 

 

Heat the plug with a torch chip- just the plug- best with oxy actetylene. let cool and unscrew it.

 

Dad

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I would think Dad had done a few more than I have ;) I'd try his method first if you have access to an oxy setup.

 

MAPP gass will do on a hand torch if you can't use Oxy, it burns a lot hotter than propane.

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I just had to hook up a mechanical guage on one of my

cars. I pulled the plug from one of the parts cars first

to get the correct fitting, then pulled the one off the

car I'm working on. I had to slip a box end wrench

over the long end of the allen wrench to get 'em but

they both came off. If you haven't stripped the inside

of the allen head maybe you just need to put a little

more leverage on it.

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it don'thave to get red hot,,just hot enought to soften the loc tite

 

you want some thing hard to get off try an audi 5000 crank bolt,, idoits use'd a super strong loc tite,, eather a 3/4 air impac of a toruch is need'd

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