austin88starionturbo Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 I saw some where that the play in the gear box was adjustable i think it was the top bolt on the gear box and useing a flat head turn that screw 1/2 clockwise. im not 100% shure on what do do hear so i thought that i would ask before destroying my gearbox. im just tryin to get some lag out of the steering. any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 hopefully not stating the obvious... there are a lot of components that could be involved in "steering slop". i would focus on the tie rods and the centerlink before messing with the gearbox. there is also a coupler on the steering shaft that could be worn. the gearbox would be the last step after everything else is checked/replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 The FSM tells you all you need to know. and as already stated, the gearbox is the last adjustment to make. If you over tighten it any amount at all you will wear it out or your steering could bind causing an accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 do this place the steering wheels straight ahead, engine runing and warm'd up , now with 1 finger slightly turn the wheel left then right,,not enought to move the wheels only the free motion,,if the gear box is properly adjust'd the wheel will return to it's oregional position on it's own when you slightly turn it left or right poor mans shade tree way to test rubber connector,, turn ign key on but do not start engine,, raise hood, in left hand use flash light to look at shaft going into top of gear box,, now with rigth hand reach inside car and move the steering wheel , first one direction then the other,,what your looking for is is there any time you move the steering wheel and the uper shaft does NOT move ,,if the coupler is good there will be NO lost motion , if the wheel can be move'd and the upper shaft does not move at same time the couplyer is bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 If you look at the steering components from underneath, you will get a better idea of what all is bad. I saw that when the steering wheel was moved, there was a bit of play before the coupler engaged then there was some more play before the box engaged. I haven't torn into it, but I'm guessing that means the coupler needs replaced and the box may need adjustment in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 it'd help a bunch if you'd just tell us HOW MUCH free play the wheel has Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 The shaft is suspended by a shim at the top the bolt holds up. You tighten it down, since there is wear, and the shaft drops down and causes the lower seal to leak MORE. The shim is selective and is a wear component. Leaky gearboxes are worn gearboxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austin88starionturbo Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 whell when im driving down the road i can have the steering wheel turned 1/8 of a turn to the left going straight and move the steering wheel back to centerd and still be going straight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) This isn't an old Ford you can jamb the gears together its worn some place else. You've got some wear points to look at. There's the coupler for the column to the gearbox to look at first. The pitman and idler arm pivots in the centerlink, two outer and two inner tie rods and two lower ball joints. All those make for slop but turning the wheel and nothing happening I'd look at the coupler. Its under a rubber boot just so all that brake fluid that leaked out can stay trapped in there and not dry out so its always oozing into the bonded connection, convenient huh? Its a bonded joint and its sort of common that they are no longer bonded and are sloppy. Oil softens and eats it up. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and you watch the shaft on either side of the coupler, its right down where it connects to the gearbox. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM006066.JPG If you look in the service manual it shows you how the power gearbox works, it takes some movement of the shaft to get the valve in the box to change and cause the power assit to help, that movement is normal. The spec for that "play" is an inch or less. Edited February 10, 2011 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 So would there be a valid reason to ever mess with the box adjustment? I understand the majority of slop comes from other, more typical components, but is the general consensus that a box that would even need adjustment should just be rebuilt/replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Most times, but I have seen a gearbox in need of adjustment. Just make sure it needs it. Overtightening gear clearance will prematurely wear the box out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 let me add this if it already hasn't, when was the last time the car had a professional alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 So would there be a valid reason to ever mess with the box adjustment? I understand the majority of slop comes from other, more typical components, but is the general consensus that a box that would even need adjustment should just be rebuilt/replaced? There is NO adjustment on this box, there's a selectible shim that means you have to measure the distance the shim needs to take up then pick that shim and then it ends up hooked to that bolt and its the bolt that is holding it UP. If its worn out then there is slop and there's no way to adjust that out, its shim is worn and must be replaced it won't do anything to move it down because of the way the box is made it just throws it out of alignment it doesn't take up any "slop". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 ah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 There is NO adjustment on this box, there's a selectible shim that means you have to measure the distance the shim needs to take up then pick that shim and then it ends up hooked to that bolt and its the bolt that is holding it UP. If its worn out then there is slop and there's no way to adjust that out, its shim is worn and must be replaced it won't do anything to move it down because of the way the box is made it just throws it out of alignment it doesn't take up any "slop". That is completely incorrect. in the steering section of the FSM 19-9 It states that if the measured value of the steering gear backlash exceeds the amount specified then to tighten down the steering gear box adjusting bolt until the steering wheel free play is within the range of standard value. which is 0.5mm or .02in at the pitman arm with a dial indicator. It is not meant for rough tuning of the steering wheel though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I'm so confused! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 the steering assy has a shaft that is not perfictly round,, the shaft and sector gear are taper'd and out of round,, they fit the tightest at straight ahead or center , as wear is introduce'd they result is excessive play,,this free play can be adjust'd by tighting the shaft adjusting screw, this screw lifts the shaft and brings the sector and center shaft closser togather,, this adjustment is cridical and if done improperly can cause interferance with the gear box's operation , at this point let me state that just because the steering wheel in seting straight DOES not mean the gear box is center'd , the steering wheel can go on in any position , with normal wear and tear the center shaft should never need any adjustment,, other parts in the steering as much more likey to have worn out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austin88starionturbo Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 This isn't an old Ford you can jamb the gears together its worn some place else. You've got some wear points to look at. There's the coupler for the column to the gearbox to look at first. The pitman and idler arm pivots in the centerlink, two outer and two inner tie rods and two lower ball joints. All those make for slop but turning the wheel and nothing happening I'd look at the coupler. Its under a rubber boot just so all that brake fluid that leaked out can stay trapped in there and not dry out so its always oozing into the bonded connection, convenient huh? Its a bonded joint and its sort of common that they are no longer bonded and are sloppy. Oil softens and eats it up. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and you watch the shaft on either side of the coupler, its right down where it connects to the gearbox. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM006066.JPG If you look in the service manual it shows you how the power gearbox works, it takes some movement of the shaft to get the valve in the box to change and cause the power assit to help, that movement is normal. The spec for that "play" is an inch or less.so i took my car to the alighnment shop and all they said is that they did the best they could beacuse of everthing being so worn out lol. so i need new strut rod bushings,lower control arm, outer tie rod, but he said this part as u mentioned here is the main cause of the slop. can some one point me in the direction of a thread on replacing this? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 That's a dealer only part but those strut rod bushings just MASH together they don't wear out they are sort of like sway bar bushings but much larger and the control arm bushings aren't weak but they are trying to explain screwed up caster and its the upper strut mount likely or a sagging spring so don't be buying a box of parts until you check into that further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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