starman89

No they are in bad shape and they twist, they get messy and taped as they descend from the TBI, which means I don't think theyre reversed but Maybe just bad. I've tried to clean the contacts but it didn't seem to help. Where can I find a good pair of pigtails/clips?

The car has fresh oil, new spark plugs, and new spark wires. I am aware that it's running rich cause it fouled a set of new plugs in no time. So I have taken proper precautions already as well as not driving it as much. Before this all happened it was my daily driver but now it sits in the garage and I run the car for 5 mins or so about twice a week to keep the car alive. What confuses me is why or how the problem could be more than one thing. I realize it's an old car but all the symptoms arouse at the same time. I think it may be because before I figured out my 02 sensor was broken I ran the car for about a week. Maybe that could have damaged other parts, running the car with a broken 02. Also, I already have the manual, it's an awesome book (I even have the electrical manual) but I still periodically need help from you guys online because the book doesn't always have a clear answer. For example, I can't find the vacuum advance anywhere in the book. Does it look anything like the EGR valve or the FPR? Or does it perhaps have another name in the manual? Should I check the EGR as well anyway as jettajody suggested? To Edde, I forgot to mention, the Coolant Temp Sensor was replaced by a mechanic already and it helped the surging a lot but not the other issues. So good call, that was part of it but it did not solve the acceleration, black smoke, stalling, etc... so I'll check the inj. and think about buying a hand vacuum to test for boost leaks. To austin88starionturbo, The car runs like crap with MAS unplugged but I've heard of older pre-87 starions runnign good w/o mas. Didn't help me tho. To Indiana, I removed BOV a while ago and it made no noticeable difference =/ As far as the Injectors, The 2nd inj replacement works great. It's a used one I bought from someone on the forums. The primary inj definitely could be a problem, In fact, the Primary Injector was one of my first guesses as to what the problem could be. I wonder if the fact that I didn't replace both injectors at the same time had any effect on the Prim Inj? Or running the car without an 02? So I will test it by taking off the OVCP and running the car, then looking with a flashlight down the tube to see if the inj leaks or sprays right. Thanks for the input on this once again, I think this post will help a lot of new starquest owners and hopefully if I can fix the problem ultimately, I can help other owners with this common problem.

Hey all, I have an 89 Conquest that I've owned for about 18 months now. I love this car but I must say it's one of the hardest cars I've ever had as far as maintenance and troubleshooting goes. In the last 6 months I've replaced the 02 sensor, the spark plugs and wires, the secondary injector, alternator belt, removed BOV, oil change and filter, and replaced all vacuum lines. I can't figure out what is causing the problem but it all started when I noticed my 02 sensor wire had broken off. I promptly replaced the sensor and this did not resolve the issue. This is how the car acts: During Idle: Black smoke comes out of the exaust. The car also surges randomly. The surging can dip low enough to cause the car to stall. Car can stall when coasting at any MPH in neutral, but it most commonly stalls when coming to a stop in neutral or a few seconds after coming to a complete stop. Car only stalls when RPMs are at idle. During gradual, slow acceleration (Primary Injector?): The surging continues in a different form when accelerating slowly; the surging becomes violent bucking of the car. When Accelerating quickly, or launching the car (Secondary Inj?): When accelerating quickly from a stand still, or launching, the car will studder instead of bucking and move much slower during the studder until you let off the gas for a second and then proceed to accel again. Then if you accelerate quickly once its rolling the car will drive smooth and seem fine, just not as fast as it should be. Accelerating quickly from a roll, in other words just speeding up, the car will drive very smooth, no bucking or hesitation, but the car still should be faster. The car drives it's best between -5 vacuum and 10psi. When speeding up or launching, regardless of if from a stop or a roll, the boost gauge continues to spike higher and higher and as this happens the car does not react to the boost by accel'ing and you must cease the accel or studdering can occur or even worse the boost will continue to rise way too high which is just dangerous. (I realize some of you may say this happens because of the BOV being removed but it never did this in the past when I took off the BOV, and also I thought the wastegate had a method of controlling max boost as well...) Also, the black smoke goes away after about 10-15 mins of running the car, a little bit after temp reaches optimal. Another strange symptom it has is the force at which the air vents blow out air is a lot weaker than it usually is and this changes from time to time slightly, I don't know if that is relevant but it seems related. Anyway, if anyone can give me any hints as to what this could be or how to fix this issue, I would be more than happy to try your ideas. Right now my guess is that it's the pigtail connectors for the injectors, the primary injector itself, the fuel pump, or the installation of the o2 sensor or the unit itself with a problem(I bought sensor brand new without a wire and soldered the wire on). I just dont want to blindly buy parts hoping this will fix it without a little reassurance and understanding. Thanks in advance guys you always have great insight... I am your student, lol.

My 02 sensor wire broke right at the crimp, I couldn't solder it back together so I am on the look-out for a stock 02 sensor. I have an 89 if its any constellation. I know a lot of people get widebands so I figured they might be somewhat common. Any help would be great thanks. -AJ

i paid $200 to a mechanic and he told me the sec inj was shorted could he have been dead wrong and actually the wire could be shorted? is that a possibility?

That's what I'm afraid of, why did it make no difference at all? It should have helped a little at least. So your saying then for instance you can use say an 83 injector in an 88 tsi in the secondary slot and it will kick in? Now that makes me think that something else is up. God damn my car is such a mess Ive had it for over a year and I cant get anything right.... How do yo guys own and maintain these cars? Arrrrrgh!!!! thanks for the info. I guess im screwed then. Even if they guy sends me the green injector my car will probly still wont work. :character0292: why didnt i buy a civic.....

Hello fellow starquesters! Recently i purchased and received what I thought would be the necessary secondary injector for my 89 conquest (because mine is shorted, i've been running on only the primary for months now, it sucks lol). Keep in mind the injector I needed was green with an "M" inscription on it, these were stock 2nd inj for the 87-89's. So I searched for a part out post and found one titled "parting out 88 tsi", i think perfect.. and PM him for the inj I need and he sends it real quickly. But when I get the box, the injector is black with a "J" inscription. If I'm not mistaken the 83-86 production line came with 2 of the exact same 850cc black injectors for the prim and sec (seemingly interchangeable). The "J" inscribed injector I received specifically is found only in 85 starquests. So the guy gave me an 85 injector despite his "88 part out" post and what we discussed over PMs. This is not a complaint! My questions are: A. The inj doesn't work, so is this normal? Does an 85 inj work as a secondary inj for an 89? In other words, Are they compatible? B. I'm also concerned because the car made absolutely no difference when I dropped the 85 inj in the secondary slot ( valve cover side ). So if they are compatible does that mean the inj he sent was non-working? or could it even indicate something else wrong with my car? ( side note: I was very precise and careful when I installed them and i removed and replaced both prim and sec injectors on my car and the primary works fine, so i dont think its human error causing the issue). Long story short: does an 85' injector work at all in the secondary injector slot (valve cover side) for an 89 throttle body? Thanks in advance for any insight you can give me on my situation. - A.J. :aj: :rock_band: P.S. The guy is already working on sending me the correct ( I hope ) injector by monday/tuesday so I should know the answer by then but I still wanted to discuss it all with you guys because I swear some of you guys are some sharp motherf***ers when it comes to these cars and where i live in Tucson, AZ the mechanics here are incredibly incompetant, good mechanic in my town is 1/1000.

if you havnt already sent the a/c tension pulley and secondary inj. can you take off the windshield wiper hex nut covers (im missing mine) and throw them in the box? i sent the pmt already but i thoguth they were a pretty small item and it would be really cool to finally have lower windshield wiper bezels. if you already shipped the other stuff then nvm but please let me know you recvd pmt and have sent it out if you haev time, thanks. -aj :aj:

I bought a manual tranny from someone on the forum I believe it was out of an 86, for a good deal $130 shipped. Got the tranny, it sat in my garage for about 2 weeks and then I had someone install it. The car ran pretty good only slippage when downshifting to 2nd but the other thing that doesn't work bothers me and it's the speedometer and odometer not working. Now I'm used to it since itsa been a while since I got it running again, but I have no trip meter no odometer so no way to tell how old my car gets either. I'm planning on just replacing engine and trans together when trans goes out anyway but in the meantime the mechanic told me theres no way to get the speedometer or odometer working because its as a result of an internal part that's not operating (as in not an issue of an electrical wire ceasing my meters but possibly, i dont know, a gear not turning?), not sure what's wrong with it but is there any way to fix the speedo or maybe install an afermarket speedo/odo? I dont know a lot about transmissions but I'll understand if its not curable and is a physical defect within the tranny, I'm mostly just looking for a 2nd opinion. aj

Ok so my headlights will not go down, the lights work but they are stuck up. i have gone through my manual and every resource on here that I could to try and figure out why it's not working and I'm pretty sure it's the passing control relay located in the glovebox. I already took apart the dash switches and tested them and they work fine. So I am almost certain its the passing control relay. And in the town I live in we have not 1 single mitsubishi dealership, few junkyards, and I think I'm the only one in Tucson, Arizona that even drives a starquest. If anyone has a working Passing Control Relay laying around perhaps in a parts car please let me know so I can get my headlights to retract! This is what it looks like: http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/3eab73df91.jpg thanks in advance :confused0024: aj

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.6cdf72b323.jpg another question, this is my bov, the screw can be adjusted. Does this have a huge effect on how the bov works? is that what "crushing" a bov is?

I might do that I might just eliminate the bov but I would need a new ovcp im sure I can buy that cheap cloth stuff somewhere though. I took pics of the wastegate but i guess a 1 port w/g exists and mines plugged into the ovcp so I think thats fine, I am looking at my bov now for the problem I guess. Is having a non-working bov like having a hole in your air intake? And these cars didnt come equipped with a bov (i dont think any car does) so obviously the car can run healthy without one I will try that and see what happens unless you guys think I have it hooked up wrong. My bov vacuum line is tee-ed into a vacuum line that eventully goes one of the four front vacuum ports near the throttle body, the top right one. But you're saying that taking the bov out will prevent damage to the engine? Because when I start to boost the turbo makes a thunk sound and abruptly stops or sometimes it will rapidly shutter until it seems like it gains pressure and then goes. I know that cant be good at all. So I stay out of boost and use my car as a regular daily driver.

i dont think my wga or turbo is stock, the wga has 1 vacuum port. ill try to find out what kind of turbo i have but supposedly the previous owner says its a 14g so the wga and turbo are not stock. I took out the EBC and eliminated 1 vac line making just one connection, a vac line from the wga to the ovcp. even after connecting the wga to the ovcp the BOV still does not make a sound and I still get the acceleration block, However, acceleration seems to have been improved a little because the halting does not occur at as low an rpm or as light throttle pressure than before when i had the ebc and about another foot of vacuum lines connected. It could very well be another problem but I am still worried about the boost, wastegate, and turbo. Specifically that my PSI is not being regulated and am worried i will ruin my engine or turbo. So my question with my current configurement (1 vac line from wga to ovcp and no boost controller with non stock turbo/wga) is: if my wga is connected to my ovcp which has a bov attacthed shouldnt I be running at stock boost and have a fuctioning BOV? I cant see any other vacuum ports on the WGA and dont see a "waste gate solenoid valve." *the turbo piping is all tight and correct, I just need to know if my vacuum and boost set-up is correct before I move on to fuel issues. I can include pictures by the way if necessary. I really appreciate the advice, fellas. -AJ

Hi I'm a new starquest owner. Well not too new to the car but new to the club. So first off hi all I'm AJ. I bought my 89 conquest SHP in march 08 with 130k miles and modified in many different ways. It's a confusing car and turbos are new to me. In August 08, the tranny went out and I just now got it running, yesterday in fact, finally after it being dead for so long. So Im really happy i got it back!!! I purchased a used transmission from a forum member on here for a low price and he shipped it to me and I had it installed by a professional and family friend (By the way the tranny I bought on here isn't in the best condition but it works, speedo doesnt work on it and cant downshift to 2nd very easily so i was disappointed but i took a chance and it does run at least). While I was at it I had all the parts of the clutch either rebuilt or replaced for a decent price. Anyway just giving a little introduction about myself my car and my project so far but don't worry I am getting to the problem... My clutch is awesome and the tranny is ok my car has been sitting for a while so it needs an oil change and some other minor maintenance things but the engine is pretty much solid too. My MAIN problem, the reason I'm posting today is because I need help with my car's boosting problems. Basically when my car starts to spool and pick up, it immediately halts, choking on it's own boost pressure it seems; over-spooling I think. At first I thought it was my secondary injector or clip maybe causing problems (and that may become a problem later). But I thought about it and I remember when I bought the car it camewith an EBC in the car. But the EBC was never configured correctly and never has been. The whole time I just left it in and stupidly didnt do anything about it, I played around with it here and there and tried to test it out but never noticed a difference and continued to have problems with my starion accelerating consistently until the tranny went out. My friends and I with the little turbo experience we had thought maybe there was an MBC hidden somewhere controlling the turbo but failed to find that or the any evidence that the EBC was connected to anything that would make it work. So this lead me to believe the car has no method of boost control except the waste gate. Only problem is, the waste gate vacuum lines are hooked up to the non-working EBC which would make the WG non-functioning as well, right? I don't know how to configure the EBC or know if it even works, it has a control unit in the center console inside the car but as i said earlier I tried testing it/playing with it in the past and failed to see any changes at all. Bascially the car has always has a problem tripping over itself after the turbo starts spooling up. What I think is, the way the wastegate and EBC are set-up is causing the turbo to bypass the waste gate and in turn cause my car to over spool and cease acceleration after either 2500ish rpms or anything over 25% throttle pressure, or both. I'm not only wanting to improve my cars speed and efficiency but I'm concerned I will ruin my turbo if the wastegate and/or the boost controller is not set-up properly. Anyone able to help me hook up my wastegate to stock set-up and possibly my BOV too? I have some vacuum diagrams but again I'm inexperienced with turbocharged cars. Thanks guys, sorry this is so long to read but I wanted to be clear with my question. Any help would be appreciated, later.