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MR2 Strut insert conversion (with airbags)


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Just got the 2 Tokico Illumina 5 strut inserts I ordered in Yesterday (just to get me started, will be using them in all 4 corners), and got started tearing down my spare struts (so far just the rear).

 

I'm using rear SHP housings for this, and took one of them apart yesterday just see see how much difference there is in length:

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6076.jpg

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6077.jpg

 

as it turns out, the rears are only 40mm (1.575") shorter in length than the rear SHP assembly

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6078.jpg

 

 

I'll keep updating this as I go. I need to take some more pics to explain some of the little details I plan on doing.

 

Derek

Edited by D_Venable
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Hey D, can you comment on the difference between the stock insert length from front to rear. Is it possible to replace the rear insert with a Tokico blue front insert? This could possibly save issues with the threaded portions diameter?

 

Just got back in from tearing a front strut down, and no you can't as I've just found (well not exactly), will have pics and details shortly...

Edited by D_Venable
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OK, the front non-shp insert is a little bit longer than the rear SHP...

 

it's a KYB replacement insert (and it's shot)

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6080.jpg

 

the MR2 insert is about 63mm (2.5") shorter :eek1bluegreen:

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6081.jpg

 

This make the front non-SHP insert 23mm (about .925") longer than the rear SHP insert. Now if the KYB did NOT have the little "cap" on the bottom, and you used a front non-SHP gland nut, it's possible that it COULD fit in the rear SHP housing.

 

Here's a pic showing the gland nuts...

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6082.jpg

 

As you can see, the front non-shp gland nut is recessed to capture the insert, with a shim ring for a tighter fit against the KYB replacement, and the rear SHP is "solid".

 

I plan to machine (with a metal lathe) a recess the size of the one in the MR2 gland nut into the rear SHP gland nut to capture the new insert.

 

ALSO, both the non-shp, and shp gland nuts have the same thread, and can thread into either of the housings.

 

...

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Another side note...

 

I have Mookee's camber plates for the front and the rear. Pillow ball fronts, and his ADJUSTABLE pillow ball rears (not the fixed position ones in the recent gp).

 

They fit perfectly fine on the MR2 inserts, only problem... Mookee supplies keyed nuts to center the shaft in the pillow ball, the shaft sizes are the same (22mm) but the threads are different. Stock (and what Mookee supplies) is 12mm x 1.25. The MR2 inserts are 14mm x 1.5. But that's just a minor thing, not a big deal.

 

Left: Keyed nut Mookee supplies Right: replacement supplied with the MR2 Inserts

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6085.jpg

 

and both plates

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6084.jpg

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6083.jpg

 

Derek

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cut, weld, then sleeve it. Once I get there, I'll have pics of it all

 

OH, and smallblock, I'm back in Ohio for at least another 2-2.5 weeks if you ever want to come up here and check this project out. I'm in Eaton, OH, straight north by about 1.5 hours of Cincy, just off US-127

Edited by D_Venable
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Sweet. The DOM tubing for sleeving the welds came in a few weeks ago. Just been busy messing cleaning the shop, and haven't got around to cutting and welding and fabbing.

 

I'm going to be starting with the fronts. And I'll probably just retap the MK1 nut to 14mmx1.5.

 

-Robert

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Yes, we thought about shortening the strut housings but were concerned about there not being enough material there? Pictures and methods would be great to see from anyone who does it.

My KYB front inserts were about 1/4" shorter so we used a small block Chevy crank bolt washer that raised it the perfect amount.

However, the bad keyword is 'raised'. I need to lower the front end for sure. I'm thinking about cutting the ST Springs as they are the reason for the increased height. I can't seem to find any coilover plates to try that.

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AIR TOOLS RULE!!!

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6091.jpg

 

hehe

 

anyway, got 3 of the 4 lower perches cut off, and the brake line bracket off one of the rears, and started cutting off the SHP adjustment knob on one.

 

Cut

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6089.jpg

 

Off

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6090.jpg

 

Thankfully all that dirt/rust is getting cut out anyway :sweatingitout:

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6087.jpg

 

Front struts, compared

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6088.jpg

 

the 3 cut so far

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6092.jpg

 

Derek

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on the fronts, yes, the rears I need to wait and see how deep I machine into the SHP gland nuts first to determine how much I cut out. Because it will be the 40mm + the depth of the machining

 

the fronts are pretty much set at the 63mm to be cut out

Edited by D_Venable
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OK, got all 4 struts almost ready to be cut down. perches cut off, adjustment knob on the rear SHPs cut out, and the brake bracket on the rears cut off (both struts were for the same side, but only the brake bracket is different)

 

All 4 ready to go

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6093.jpg

 

close up of one of the rear SHPs

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6094.jpg

 

Front struts, MR2 Tokico Illumina on the left, stock replacement KYB on the right

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6095.jpg

 

Tokico is about 65mm from the top lip

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6098.jpg

 

KYB is about 1mm from the top lip

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6100.jpg

 

Rear SHP housings, Tokico left, KYB right

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6101.jpg

 

Tokico is about 54mm from the top lip

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6103.jpg

 

KYB is about 10mm ABOVE the top lip

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6102.jpg

 

And just for fun, I kept the SHP adjustment knobs, hehe

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/DSCF6104.jpg

 

Derek

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I'm using NON-SHP front struts

 

the rears, that's where you run into the issue with the non-shp. as they are sealed units. You CAN use them, but that will require carefully cutting the top edge off, to pull the inside workings out, then have it re-threaded at the shorter height, and THEN you have to have an extra pair of gland nuts to use on them.

 

I know someone has done that, they've posted it here on SQC somewhere. I just feel it's easier, and less work (if your just gonna make spacers, and keep the struts stock length) to use the SHP rear. And the rears don't have to be a matching set, I'm using SHP housings from 2 different cars, infact, they are both for the same side. The only difference side to side (unless they've been bent for old school camber correction) is the brake line bracket.

 

 

At the point I'm at now, I could just weld a patch over the SHP adjustment knob hole, and make spacers to drop into the bottom of the struts, then put them all together, and install. But I want to go LOW, so I'm gonna chop 63mm out of the height of the fronts, and (if I can get another set of non-shp gland nuts) 53mm out of the rear struts.

 

and I'm using metric measurements because it's more precise, and well, just easier to use.

 

Derek

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