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#1 Vuouymons

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 09:18 AM

Alright, so last sunday I went out with a friend and while we were gunning it I heard a weird sound so I slowed down. Came up to a red light and I noticed it was idling weird, had a noise. At first I was like deff a exhaust leak. Took it to the shop noticed one of my turbo mount nuts had came loose and fell off while we were driving, exhaust leak I think to myself so I deff heard that found a spare nut and washer. Tightened it all back down. Hopped in started it, but still has a noise. After listening to it and my dad listening to it we both thought it sounded like a lifter (I replaced all of them I'm pretty sure when rebuilding the engine.) I pulled my valve cover and checked all my rocker arms, none of them have any play. I'm about to check my springs, but does anyone have any advice? None of them seem to be obviously damaged and I don't really want to run my car without the valve cover and splash oil all over the place to find it.

Edited by Vuouymons, 21 May 2018 - 09:19 AM.

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#2 speedyquest

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 09:41 AM

Can you describe the noise a bit? What exactly does it sound like? Typically when I start hearing a noise that is coming from within the engine itself I tend to first verify if its tied to rpm or not and then based on that continue. A good idea might be is to check your oil, your oil filter, and do a compression test just to verify the health of your motor before you run it any more JUST in case its tied to your valvetrain.

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#3 Vuouymons

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 01:30 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 21 May 2018 - 09:41 AM, said:

Can you describe the noise a bit? What exactly does it sound like? Typically when I start hearing a noise that is coming from within the engine itself I tend to first verify if its tied to rpm or not and then based on that continue. A good idea might be is to check your oil, your oil filter, and do a compression test just to verify the health of your motor before you run it any more JUST in case its tied to your valvetrain.

Literally just rebuilt my motor so everything on the lower end should be good. Now lower RPMs it's definitely more prominent, and even goes away sometimes in the higher RPMs (or the car is just loud and I can't hear it anymore) From what I can remember it was just like if you hear a chevy truck with its lifters going out... That loud TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK sound they go crazy with, but mine was a little more calm than that and when I got to a certain RPM the sound would disperse for the most part.

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#4 importwarrior

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 07:44 PM

You getting oil up to the top of the head?

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#5 importwarrior

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 07:48 PM

This might help a little about the bolts backing out. This is what I did to fix my repeated problem.

http://www.starquest...howtopic=143909

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#6 Bradrock

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Posted 21 May 2018 - 10:11 PM

I use a stethoscope for pin pointing engine noises. I have an electric one, but you can use a piece of tubing the same way. Of course that's with the engine running. Trying to find a tick without running the engine is like chasing unicorns for me. I run it with a tick. Now a  KNOCK & I shut it  down! Heh..Heh
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#7 rcm

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 08:13 AM

Sounds like an exhaust leak.

#8 Vuouymons

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 10:13 AM

It isn't a exhaust leak, we used the stethoscope to pin it to the top side. We did run it with the tick and it all sounds upper end. When we unplugged my ignition coil and I turned over the motor he said my jet valves were squirting, so I'm going to assume I have oil going to the head, plus my oil pressure has been staying good.

Edited by Vuouymons, 22 May 2018 - 10:14 AM.

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#9 Dad

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 10:17 AM

No change in oil pressure hot at idle?    Rocker shafts and arms  have very small oil passages, does not take much to plug a passage,  I recommend really cleaning those prior to assembly,  in rare instances rock arms wear in the area the lifter goes causing lifter to go further into the arm,  causing too much lash,  Improper valve stem height can make it noisy also.  Worn cam lobe can also cause ticking.

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#10 croquest87

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 11:26 AM

I had some ticking after my rebuild. Ended up switching to mechanical rocker shafts and arms and no more ticking. Mine was doing it on cold start for 2-3 minutes until car wormed up. Even after replacing hydraulic lifter tappets and all.

#11 Vuouymons

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 01:45 PM

View PostDad, on 22 May 2018 - 10:17 AM, said:

No change in oil pressure hot at idle? Rocker shafts and arms  have very small oil passages, does not take much to plug a passage,  I recommend really cleaning those prior to assembly,  in rare instances rock arms wear in the area the lifter goes causing lifter to go further into the arm,  causing too much lash,  Improper valve stem height can make it noisy also.  Worn cam lobe can also cause ticking.

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We made sure to clean all of that out on reassembly The oil pressure does drop at idle, but that's pretty common on most cars, it doesn't drop completely just a idle drop. I'm sure the radiator isn't the cleanest it's ever been either I was going to upgrade soon to a CX or TEP(If they have them) because she doesn't overheat, but she does get a little warm on idle as well. As soon as she's in gear though everything goes back to normal and she runs cool as a fridge. Oil pressure runs strong.

View Postcroquest87, on 22 May 2018 - 11:26 AM, said:

I had some ticking after my rebuild. Ended up switching to mechanical rocker shafts and arms and no more ticking. Mine was doing it on cold start for 2-3 minutes until car wormed up. Even after replacing hydraulic lifter tappets and all.
I might have to look into this... I thought I was running mechanical and I think we found out I did have hydraulic when we were rebuilding it. I'll have to double check. Thanks for the info everyone.

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#12 croquest87

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Posted 22 May 2018 - 04:13 PM

Just for reference my oil pressure is around 28 PSI fully warmed up. If you don't have aftermarket simple oil pressure gauge you should get one stock one is not  that accurate in my opinion

#13 Vuouymons

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 09:32 AM

View Postcroquest87, on 22 May 2018 - 04:13 PM, said:

Just for reference my oil pressure is around 28 PSI fully warmed up. If you don't have aftermarket simple oil pressure gauge you should get one stock one is not  that accurate in my opinion

Yeah, I've been running off all stock gauges, I'm not really at my upgrade point on those yet. I want to upgrade just about all of them when possible, but want her actually running correctly before I do anything crazy

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#14 Vuouymons

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 03:54 PM

Alrighty, I've finally got some time to actually mess with it. I just got the whole assembly torn apart and I'm soaking the two rods and the rocker arms in some carb dip to get anything in them out. Going to see if this fixes my lifter noise, I also may be replacing this cam soon, has anyone done the old wedge trick on the tensioners on these? Where you can slip the timing chain off by weding something between the timing chain and push the tensioner in. I want to replace my cam with the new one I've had sitting here waiting for it. I've been told to add a zinc additive. Does anyone recommend a certain brand or have a good additive to show me?  I just did the oil change so I'd rather not waste it, if I have to though it is what it is. Also what is the break-in process for our cam? Do we Rev the car at a certain RPM for about 10 minutes with the new cam + additive? Any information would be amazing. Thank you.

Edited by Vuouymons, 07 June 2018 - 03:55 PM.

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#15 croquest87

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 10:59 PM

From my understanding  key to a good break in is just driving normal and at variety of operating rpms. I change my oil after 10 minutes of idle. After 100 500 1000 oil changes  and normal oil change after. I also ad ZDDP as suggested to me by EMS (Randy)  never had a problem. This comes from gentleman who has built more engines than all of us combined on this site and some more.

Edited by croquest87, 08 June 2018 - 03:41 PM.


#16 Hoosierquest

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 03:30 PM

If you are replacing just the cam all you have to do is remove cam gear bolt then remove the dizzy drive gear and just slide or tap the gear forward.  There is already a shelf under it to hold it in place. Now if wanting to change the cam gear/sprocket then yes you have to bend down the shelf while taking a bar or something to hold the tensioner back.
And yes most new cams do have a break in procedure similar to what you stated. Check with your cam manufacture for recommended procedure.
Also I know Lucas makes a zinc additive and they also make a high zddp or zinc oil.
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#17 Vuouymons

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 09:14 AM

View PostHoosierquest, on 08 June 2018 - 03:30 PM, said:

If you are replacing just the cam all you have to do is remove cam gear bolt then remove the dizzy drive gear and just slide or tap the gear forward.  There is already a shelf under it to hold it in place. Now if wanting to change the cam gear/sprocket then yes you have to bend down the shelf while taking a bar or something to hold the tensioner back.
And yes most new cams do have a break in procedure similar to what you stated. Check with your cam manufacture for recommended procedure.
Also I know Lucas makes a zinc additive and they also make a high zddp or zinc oil.
Oh, I guess I forgot to mention. Somehow during my rebuild the shelf to hold that in place actually was lost. I had to move my car from several locations (not really wanting to because you always loose something...) But I ended up getting everything together but that. I had to buy a few things that had been lost as well, but I just couldn't find one of those and my pops told me it'd run fine without it.  I'll go ahead and look up the procedure and take what croquest said into account.

Cleaning my assembly didn't fix my noise, but I had someone tell me my oil may just be too thin, and especially since I'm in Texas he might be right. I'm going to move up to a 20-50 he said it fixed his lifter noise within 5 minutes, so it isn't a bad shot. If that doesn't work out I might just throw some seafoam in it and see if I can find a mechanical swap.

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