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BSE/T-chain #s, prices & install tips.


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#21 Professor Quest

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Posted 03 April 2004 - 03:06 AM

Recheck your numbers and I thru in some prices. wink.gif





#22 Shelby

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Posted 03 April 2004 - 12:06 PM

a little mention about the  oil pump drive  gears,, these gears are  real  bad for wearing and if your not an experiance'd mechanic you  may not know what to realy look for, so i'd sugest you replace the  oil pump gear  just to be safe,,many guys have   try'd leaveing the old gear  only to have  it fail  with in a very short time, the price of the gear  is not worth the  going back and doing it again
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#23 Professor Quest

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Posted 03 April 2004 - 01:32 PM

Right you are Shelby! That's why the BEK157 is a better way to go and you need the "C" guide that comes with it too. I read in a FAQ that someone said to "Oval out the "C" guide hole to put more tension on the chain. I don't know about that. That chain CAN go from 40 below zero to 240 degrees. Just let the GUIDE do it's thing. It is on the "Tension side".  That was a clever idea but it could BACK-FIRE on you. If the chain should be tighter, they would have designed it that way. wink.gif

#24 Professor Quest

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Posted 05 April 2004 - 12:30 AM

BTW..............The BEK157 is the last part pictured on the FRONT page of the site. The BEK 156 is the same part WITHOUT the gears or the guide.

#25 Professor Quest

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Posted 05 April 2004 - 09:55 PM

Auto Zone has a TYPO in the price of 7051 guide. It should be $18.99, they sell it for $8.99.  Hey................10 bucks is..............10 bucks LESS! ;D

#26 Professor Quest

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Posted 29 April 2004 - 11:39 AM

Project 83,  I think this is what you want to see. wink.gif

#27 patra_is_here

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Posted 29 April 2004 - 05:17 PM

hi, i'm a newbie here, this thread confuses me.

do i need all those parts to do a BSE?

#28 Professor Quest

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Posted 29 April 2004 - 06:42 PM

No. Those are 3 differant ways to buy the same parts. Yes. you will need all the gaskets and seals. Pick your Auto Parts store and then use THEIR numbers. Most parts guys get lost in the catalogs with so many differant parts for the 2.6.  If you need help.............just ask me. wink.gif

#29 Professor Quest

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Posted 06 July 2004 - 12:42 AM

Bump for SMOG.

#30 spyder_gsr

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Posted 07 July 2004 - 08:32 PM

So if I were just looking at doing the timing chain I would need to get TCS068 right?

What other parts would I need to complete the job?

TJ

#31 Professor Quest

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Posted 07 July 2004 - 09:31 PM

TCS068 comes with a timing cover gasket and water pump gasket. I would get a Fel-pro oil pan gasket as well. You can replace the whole gasket or just section the front part of the gasket. But.........if you do a BSE kit......there's more to it.

#32 spyder_gsr

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Posted 08 July 2004 - 09:07 AM

In that case..... what would be easier? Should I do the BSE and t-chain or just the t-chain? At this point I just want the car to run but looking at the manual it seems it might be easier if the BS is not there at all.


background: My car started making metal to metal "slapping" sounds. Pulled my VC last night and the T-chain is slack on the right side and tight as hell on the left side. There is obviously more slack than there should be. Not sure if it jumped a tooth or not but something is WAY off. So I know it needs the t-chain replaced. Probably stock anyway. But..... I have never done this before. Looking for help now but want to make sure I get the right parts and ALL of them. I hate waiting or having to go back to the store because I don't have what I need.

I think in my case I should just wait till I rebuild the motor before I do the BSE.

Tim Jones

#33 Professor Quest

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 08:54 PM

You have to remove the balance shaft chain to replace the timing chain SET. wink.gif And I'll bet the the balance shaft chain is junk already. wink.gif

#34 mstieg

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 02:35 PM

Lots of GREAT info here, but it's all over the place!!  I'm new to this project myself, and looking to buy all the parts for the BSE and timing chain replace.  There's an autozone nearby, and a Mits. dealer 25mins away, but are these gaskets/o-rings avail. at these other locations?  I want the best stuff obviously.  Are all those options you listed good reliable parts?  or are some of them the ROCK hard rings we want to avoid?  Perhaps seperating out the various routes by desired jobs would be a good way to re-organize, then give the different ways to do each job...for example:  

Timing chain ONLY:  
  -List all parts needed.   Then
  -give various ways to get them,
          and the places/part #s one should avoid.  THEN
  -list the various hints, (like dropping pan or not).

BSE & Timing chain:
  -List all parts needed.  
  -purchase options (do's & don'ts)
  -hints

BSE only
  -same

I'll have more questions when I can read into this over again to figure it all out.  Just tossing out an idea to clean up all this a wee bit.  Thanks a ton for posting all this invaluable info!!

-Matt
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#35 Professor Quest

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 04:23 PM

Matt, all the parts are quality parts. No junk listed. You can avoid the dealer by ordering Fel-Pro "Conversion set" CS-8788-1 for about $39. This is a COMPLETE lower end gasket set that has the O-ring (bright orange silicone) and the right  oil pump gasket and the oil pan gasket as well as a TON of other gaskets. But you will spend more money. Some guys avoid the dealer........that is a MISTAKE. I've bought enough parts for this car to know that MANY parts are cheaper at the dealer and are BETTER parts. You just have to know WHICH dealer to use. Artinist has a list on the BS forum of the dealers to use. But theses DEALER parts are cheap anyway. BTW...this is not a topic on "How to do it". That would take many pages to type.

#36 mstieg

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 08:48 PM

Thanks for the clarification.  Seems that for this job alone, it'd be cheaper to go dealer for the gaskets.

Just appeared that there's so much info on the labor aspects, an organized "how to" is warrented.  Regardless, I'll take whatever help I can find  ;)

Thanks.
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#37 armygreen11

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 09:27 PM

Ok... SO... I just got an 87 (with low oil pressure) and I want to do a timing chain job and replace that pickup tube O-ring to hopefully alleviate my problem. According to reciepts I got with the car, a BSE kit was installed back in 2000. The parts listing on it doesn't call out any BSE kit, but it does have timing set 76046 (which I think is a Cloyes p/n).

Since I don't know what all was installed, I'm just going to go ahead and order BEK157 (BSE kit with gears and guide) and TCS068 (timing kit with gaskets) from enginequest, and MD191432 (OP gasket), MD068388 (O-ring), and MD020232 (Pan Gasket, someone check my p/n please) from Rockville Mitsu. I'll stop at autozone and get that bearing installer, oil, filter, antifreeze, RTV, and some other un-related things. Now.... Do I need ANYTHING else? Is there anything else under that cover or the pan that I should check out, replace, clean, feel, smell, or rub lovingly? The water pump is five years old and AFAIK the oil pump is original. I also need to change my input shaft bearing (that's screaming like a banshee), change the pads all around, and free up my parking brake. Should I save these things for another weekend, or can I fit it all in?

#38 Dad

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 09:42 PM

ARMY.....IF YOUR BALANCE SHAFTS HAVE BEEN ELIMINATED  YOU BETTER LOOK ELSWHERE FOR LOW OIL PRESSURE.   You can pull the side cover ( drivers side) and look if a shaft is there.

Low oil pressure could be oil pump, or bearings.

DAD

#39 armygreen11

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Posted 26 July 2004 - 06:39 AM

Dad: I'm leaning towards the O-ring right now as the cause of my low oil pressure, or possibly something that wasn't installed correctly when the last timing set or the BSE was put in. I'm changing the pump at the same time, so if all this doesn't fix it, that kinda narrows it down to the bearings.

Professor: I meant for someone to just double check the p/n for the factory pan gasket that hasn't been listed here yet. I have total cofidence in your part numbers Professor, I just figured I'd use a factory pan gasket instead of a Fel-Pro since I was already ordering from the dealer, and I just wanted someone to make sure that that ONE part number was correct. That's why it said p/n, not p/n's. And who said anything about "time frame"? Do you mean when I was asking if I could jam all that stuff into a weekend? I've only been here a week professor. There's no way I'm trying to discount any of your info as I haven't seen anything yet that I disagree with. I think you definately know what you're tallking about. But there's no reason to try to make me sound like an a$$, which is what it sounded like you were trying to do. Cloyes may make a quality part, but it has been five years, and what I don't know is if that kit came with a new O-ring, and if it did, is it the correct material.

I'm going to change the pump if the factory one is that much of a POS. Where do you get one for $140? Lowest I've seen is $189. How do you feel about the HV pumps from Mid-west turbo for $209? Worth it? Since I'm already going to have the crank gear off, and I may have the trans out as well, how much more work would it be to just drop the crank and change the main and rod bearings too? I don't have the time to get the crank turned, so could I just slap some new bearings on there and call it a day? I've never messed with a bottom end before, so this is new territory to me.

If this is too far OT, could you just PM me professor?

#40 Professor Quest

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Posted 26 July 2004 - 09:51 AM

wink.gif




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