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U joint replace...PICS.


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#1 Professor Quest

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Posted 07 November 2004 - 11:19 PM

U-Joint P/Ns:
Napa SUPER DUTY JOINT (no zerk) 215-0088
Napa Standard joint (w/zerk) 220-0088 $21.59
Carquest/Spicer 1-1516 $15.99
Spicer 5-1516
Neapco (cheaper spicer line) 1-1516





#2 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 07 November 2004 - 11:27 PM


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#3 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:01 AM

Well, this is a typical stock drive shaft with the factory U joints. Note: it's kinda nasty so the first thing we do is clean it. I'm gonna cheat and use the bench grinder with a wire wheel to start with. A look at the "Tool Time" post shows a 22 caliber copper bore brush. This will get down around the caps to clean them BEFORE you attempt to take it apart. The RAT-TAIL file is actually a chain-saw file, 5/32. If you fail to clean it correctly, you will bend the YOKES when you strike it with a hammer. That's BAD. The tools are what I anticipated I would need.........as it turns out I needed 3 more tools. Hey..............the last guy who was perfect had holes in his hands.

#4 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:06 AM


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#5 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:10 AM

Take the MILL file and mark the SHAFT and the COMPANION FLANGE.......yellow crayon marks. Also mark the SLIP YOKE.  This will PERMANTLY MARK THE TWO PARTS. wink.gif ALSO.........do this before you remove it from the car to index the shaft to the REAR END.

#6 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:15 AM


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#7 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:21 AM

Note the large yellow mark ON THE WELD. This is a striking point. No, we don't beat the crap out of it. Light blows should do just fine. The snap rings were rusty and did not want to release. The center punch convinced them to break free and then the snap -ring pliers did there job. The WD-40 helps here. It also helps lube the cap that we are about to remove.

#8 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:24 AM


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#9 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:32 AM

Sorry about the focus. LAY.......the companion flange ON a vise. DON'T pinch it. This will SUPPORT the companion flange and allow the SHAFT to move DOWNWARD driving the CAP UPWARD when you strike the YELLOW MARK with a hammer. Use lighter taps with the hammer. If the cap is cleaned and lubed with WD-40.......the cap should ease UPWARD. Note what is RESTING on the VISE.

#10 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:35 AM


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#11 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:43 AM

A few taps with the mallet (ON THE YELLOW PAINT ONLY)........."there she blows"..........no it won't come ALL the way out.........yet. It has BOOGERS NOW.    Give it another squirt of WD-40 on both sides of the cap. Striking the yoke around the C clip will close up the groove. DON'T DO THAT! Striking the SHAFT will BEND the shaft (put a dent in it) Now the shaft is no longer TRUE. DON'T DO THAT.

#12 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:45 AM


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#13 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:52 AM

It's nearly out and you can't drive it any further by tapping the WELD.....sorry. The Channel-locks will let you TWIST it out from here.

#14 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 12:54 AM



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#15 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:00 AM

Top pic.  This BOOGER is NORMAL from the tapping with the hammer. BUT IT MUST BE REMOVED..............with the RAT-TAIL FILE. There should be 4 BOOGERS. Sometimes you can barley seem them. Use your fingers and FEEL FOR THEM.

Bottom pic. Then DRESS it with the Crocuss cloth. This will remove any imperfections so reassembly will go SMOOTH. The distance between the "EARS" on both parts is CRITICAL. You can bend them out of proper ALIGNMENT if...........the caps aren't clean ( which makes you use too much HAMMER) or you don't remove the BOOGERS.......which again.........makes you use too much HAMMER.

#16 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:03 AM


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#17 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:09 AM

Note how CLEAN you want the CAPS. This is so they SLIDE out nice and easy. If they are rusty or gummed up with old grease............you will need to strike the hammer HARDER...........and THAT BENDS THE EARS THROWING YOUR ALIGNMENT OF THE PARTS OFF. VIBRATION!!!!

#18 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:11 AM


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#19 Professor Quest

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:14 AM

Use a 1" socket. Center it over the cap. Now strike the socket with the hammer. The cap will come out just like it did from the shaft. Again..........note what REST on the vise.

#20 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 01:15 AM


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88TSi-S16G~19x8.5's/19x10.5's~Anti-M-Power~S&M~FIP TBpro2R~E46 projector HID's/Fogs
2001 IS300-GTE swap~T04E 60-1 Garrett hifi~18" Volk CE28N~Tein Comfort Sport coilovers~TurboEast~PFS~Apex-I~Greddy~Blitz
2005 LS430-Staggered 20" Maya/Trafficstar DTS'~14k/12k Extreme Drop BC Coilovers~KYOEI-USA Representin...Bippu Status.




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