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FUEL SYSTEM REBUILD/PUMPS/TANK/FILTERS


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#1 Professor Quest

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 03:26 PM

This is the Walbro Fuel Pump with the Wix Filter installed. CALL 1-866-383-5786

Walbro fuel pump # GSL-392  install fitting kit # 400-952  $128 (discounted price for members)

Wix filter number 33278      Car Quest 86278     NAPA 3278  $7 BUCKS

 Fuel tank drain gasket MB129662 $.97 (1/2 ratchet)  In tank filter MB129890 $5.79

CALL 1-866-383-5786  Ron at APE will help you. The install kit is not listed on the website, sorry. Ron is aware of that but will supply the kit.





#2 Professor Quest

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 08:57 PM

Thanks to Ron Gregory at http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/  in Texas at (866)383-5786 for making this a "BOLT-IN" kit. Fuel tank removal: Jack up car about 2 feet and place on jack- stands. Remove LR tire.  Remove fuel and release residual fuel pressure:   Remove fuel line at TB. Stick hose in a fuel can. Hook 12 volts to "test port" located near air cleaner. After fuel is pumped out, place a drip pan under tank drain. Using a 1/2 ratchet, remove drain. (rubber gloves come in handy here) when tank is empty, install drain plug. Unhook fuel outlet line from pump:  This part can be tuff. Use a  GOOD 14mm LINE or FLARE NUT WRENCH & a GOOD 19mm flare-nut wrench. This fitting is ABOVE the rear cross-member so you don't have alot of room. Hold the 19mm and rotate the 14mm. This fitting is pretty tight and maybe rusty, so use  LONG WRENCHES. You can use a HOT AIR GUN on the female side (19mm side) if it won't break free. DON'T DAMAGE THE NUTS! There are 2 other lines to remove, use pliers or "line-man pliers" to remove clamps. Rotate the hoses and pull them free. Open rear hatch, remove spare tire cover. Remove access panel over pump. Don't BEND it. On the LR side, note rubber grommet. GENTLY pull it up. This is the electrical connection for the pump. Disconnect. Make sure connection is UNDER FLOOR BOARD. Remove LR fender liner. 4-10mm bolts. Remove 2 fuel tank retaining nuts, flat washers and lock washers. Install JUST the NUTS 2 turns, on one front stud and one rear stud. Remove all the rest of the nuts and washers. This will lower your tank about 1 inch. Remove the metal shroud around the filler neck. This is a nut and bolt set-up with spacers inside the rubber......watch the spacers!!! VERY SMALL and will fall out. This is WHY you lowerd the tank 1 inch, so you can get to one bolt that is too close to the floor. Once you have unbolted the metal shroud, remove the clamps for the inlet hose and over-flow hose nearest the fender.Once you have the clamps REALLY LOOSE, use a flat-blade screw driver and push it around the neck between the rubber hose and the neck. this will loosen the grip. WD-40 helps here. Leave the filler neck attached to the inner fender. DOUBLE CHECK!!! EVERYTHING UNBOLTED AND NOTHING GOING TO GET HUNG-UP? GOOD! Now lay on your back, put your knees against the fuel tank, remove the last 2 nuts that are almost off AND GENTLY LOWER THE TANK. It helps to have a helper with you incase something hangs up. Once you have the tank out, wash it down with your water hose. Note the position of EVERYTHING. You can remove both sending units so you can see inside the tank. If your tank is nasty inside, you can haul it down to the car wash and blast it out thru the openings. Compressed air or the sun will dry it out. It's a good idea to REPLACE the intank filter NOW. Run a piece of coat hanger thru the steel fuel line to make sure it's clear. If your tank is REALLY NASTY......take it to a radiator shop for flushing and sealing. Reinstall EXACTLY in reverse........starting with 2 nuts and NO WASHERS. You're dealing with FUEL.........rubber gloves, saftey glasses, drain pans, FIRE EXT. COMMON SENSE. wink.gif  DON'T FORGET TO ROUTE IN THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION!!! This is where a helper comes in handy. ;D  EXTRA NOTE: Do not tighten ANY FITTING that uses a copper or Ali gasket until you are SURE that you have everything where you want it. They seal by COMPRESSION. Removing them once tightend............can cause a leak. BEFORE you completely install the tank........hook up ALL your fuel lines, put in a gallon of gas and TEST IT for leaks.

#3 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 09:15 PM












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#4 Professor Quest

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 09:37 PM

Sorry, John.........I knew I was forgetting something. MODIFIED!! ;D And it is "special". IT FITS!!!! wink.gif

#5 ZeroKewl9

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Posted 01 July 2004 - 07:33 AM

I have ordered one of the pumps from Ron and I thought i'd read some where else that the FP has a built in filter or something?

Zero

#6 Professor Quest

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Posted 01 July 2004 - 09:52 AM

True, the pump has a screen built into it. But it does not appear to be very FINE. Let me tell you what happened to my car. It had sat for 10 years. I knew the fuel tank would need flushed and the filters replaced along with the fuel pump. No big deal. I finish the above work and guess what................The pump ran but I could not get any fuel. Took it all back apart again and guess what I found.................The steel pick-up tube was COMPLETELY PLUGGED with old fuel and RUST. I took over a hour to clean it out with a coat hanger and "barrel brushes". So if you think the filter just before the fuel pump has NO PURPOSE..............Think about my fuel line. Steel fuel lines can rust from the inside just like a fuel tank. I would rather have a filter that I can REPLACE in a few minutes, than a screen INSIDE the fuel pump. But you need to decide for yourself if you want the Wix filter. wink.gif

#7 gunpackingpoet

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 01:58 AM

Professor, that Wix filter is an extra, right?  You didn't do away with the one below the EGR valve, right?  Also, the only thing you bought was the pump itself from APE, right?  What's the FP part number?  Thanks for the info!
Vic

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#8 JustPaus_88TSi

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 02:37 AM

http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1087305967
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#9 freebird

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 05:25 AM

this question has probly been asked,sorry,but i just got my screen filter not paper from carquest and well i think my intank filter can just be cleaned??? but my question is can i use the external filter from carquest and the cone stile filter inside the pump or not cause my little cone filter looks good after i cleaned it,and if i have both it will clean the gas better or will it cause a resistance :smile.gif
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#10 Professor Quest

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 10:14 AM

The conical filter will NOT FIT this fuel pump, nor will it fit MOST aftermarket fuel pumps. I tried to fit it to several pumps. Yes............keep your IN-TANK filter as well as the "High Pressure filter" in the engine compartment.  ;)

#11 freebird

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 12:44 PM

ohh ya my pump is like a replacement oem it came with the car so im thinking just clean the in tank filter and put the conical in and trhe external carquest filter
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#12 Professor Quest

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Posted 02 July 2004 - 10:26 PM

You can do that. Some might say that's over-kill. The first pump I put in my car looked like a "Factory pump". Lasted..............about a month and then started making weird noises. ???

#13 freebird

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Posted 03 July 2004 - 05:28 AM

ya i kinda figured that but im kinda poor for now sad.gif
 is there a resistace check on the stock fuel pumps cause my oem one that i had took out,wich was stock, it seemed to have a short to the case, but then i checked my new(er) one and it said OL to the case, but my oem one did seem to work while in the car but i was getting the bucking and stalling out of first.
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#14 Professor Quest

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Posted 03 July 2004 - 11:20 PM

I'm sure the replacement pump is fine...........as long as it's NEW and is the RIGHT pump. I would never go thru all the trouble of replacing a pump with a USED ONE.

#15 88StarionESI-R

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Posted 04 July 2004 - 11:09 PM

I just took the panel above the fuel pump off.  It's pretty deep under the trunk.  Is there any way to replace the pump without having the drop the fuel tank?

#16 Professor Quest

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Posted 05 July 2004 - 10:16 AM

Some guys cut the hole bigger and make a bigger access panel. If you use the fuel pump to pump out the gas or use the drain (1/2 ratchet or breaker bar) the tank is pretty easy to lower. Even if you cut the hole larger.............you should probably remove the tank. Besides if you remove both sending units, you can see inside the tank and determine if it needs flushed.  ;) The tank is pretty light when it's empty. I know a few tips when removing the tank. ;D

#17 freebird

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Posted 05 July 2004 - 11:03 AM

hey did someone say there was some kinda sealer for the drain plug cause mine leaking like a bish,
and ya man just drop the tank you wouldnt believe how easy it is ecpecialy with an air rachet,besides mine had so much salty looking junk in it that i was so glad that i desided to drop it and look inside
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#18 Professor Quest

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Posted 05 July 2004 - 11:30 AM

It has a gasket. page 14-81   Known as a "packing".  MB129662  wink.gif $.97

#19 freebird

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Posted 05 July 2004 - 04:21 PM

ok ya but i didnt see one when i took mine off so where can i get one of these at
and i dont think i got the same book cause on them pages in my...charley brown... said i need a new book
cant i just go to the A-zone for one of these
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#20 88StarionESI-R

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Posted 05 July 2004 - 05:46 PM

Maybe I'm just lucky.  I opened up the tank and found the inside to be completely clean and beautiful.  Both the pick up filter and conical filter were like-new.  The conical filter did have a few deposits at the very tip but that is all.  I guess the new pump will go in later.  I don't have it yet anyways. biggrin.gif




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