Technology Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 (edited) Here you can see what I saw as I opened the garage when I got back from China after 7 weeks (I didn't leave the hood open the whole time, lol)http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01311.JPG My first goal was to remove the stock engine wiring harness which I had a little bit of a hard time doing, but as you can see here, it was a success.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01319.JPG The hard part of wiring harness removal is not the engine bay side, it's under the dash. Unless you have magic skills, you need to remove the blower motor. I should elaborate a bit on this since I had a question about it. There are three big bolts, plus the alignment ring which holds the blower to the A/C box. That has one phillips head screw. the hard-to-get-to bolt is above the alignment ring thing at the top left side of the blower, against the firewall. it can be removed without pulling the dash, as you can see in this picture, but you have to fanagle it, and I scratched the plastic housing a bit, but since no one will ever see it anyway, that doesn't matter.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01322.JPG And this doesn't look like much but it's the top corner under the dash on the firewall - the hole where the harness used to come through. If you ever want to do a stealthy wiring setup, this is the place to go through.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01321.JPG Here's the driver's side before harness removal, you can see the brake booster and related stuff is gone. All for ABS removal.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01312.JPG The battery area after harness removal. Cleaning will ensue. I found the skeletal remains of a mouse that had stolen some of my hood insulation and made a nest behind the battery. I had seen some of it like when I bought the car, so I think it's been dead and riding for free since before I got it around 2002, lol.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01315.JPG And here is the real performance machine. They don't make 'em like this anymore.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01323.JPG I'll keep updating this thread with pics as I go. I got the intercooler mounted back in place and I need to install the brake booster, master cylinder and lines. I eliminated the ABS as well. Edited August 17, 2012 by Technology Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 I got to do some more work today. I put the brake booster back on:http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01340.JPG Then the master brake cylinder, hey look, a 12mm end wrench!http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01341.JPG Got the brake lines attatched - that is the <2 dollar ABS elimination kit. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01342.JPG Then I cut the bumper support for I/C pipe clearance:http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01343.JPG Here's the whole thing.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01344.JPG Test fitting for the fuel rail. Dang it'll be tight in there, but I've got it figured out.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01345.JPG See this? good thing the engine doesn't move back and forth!http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01347.JPG I need to change my underwear:http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01349.JPG I tightened up a bunch of stuff, cleaned here and there. I have to get the basic mechanical stuff done, like bleed the brakes get the intake on, sensors in, hoses and fittings for coolant done, then once that's all done I will start with the wiring harness stuff. that will be just great fun. so far the only things I need done by someone else are the cam angle sensor machined and the fuel line built. Oh yeah, I took off the pedal extensions on the go kart and the thing hauls, but I discovered that at one point the exhaust broke off or something and was re-welded, but 180 degrees off, so the flange bolts on, but half of the exhaust port is just venting to atmo. I did a temporary fix for me and it got a little more quiet. and it needs new bearings for the front wheels, and some frame adjustment, oh well. still fun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolyrgr Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Nice work so far. It is good to see attention to detail. you ahould have a pretty clean bay when you get done. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotrodTSi Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 That looks like a nice clean install. You should rotate the fuel line 90* so it fits in the round groove. That will help hold it in place and give you the needed room at the heater hose. You can also rotate the throttle cable tube downward to help with the angle when you attach it to the TB...just route the cable to come up alongside the manifold and hook it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Thanks for the tips, I figured out what I'm going to do with the fuel line - since both ends are banjo style, I was going to get a new line made with the stock ends for both magna and quest, but when looking, I found that they aren't bent the same, when I use the quest end on the fuel rail, it shoots back along the rail and the magna end puts the line exactly where I want it. So I'll do that, and there won't be any problems. The reason I didn't put it in the "holder" thing was because when it was in there, it bumped into the power steering line. As for the throttle cable, thanks for that idea also, but what can I do about the TB? the rotor is basically upside down, and will need modification to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emagdnim Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Dude.. wt.... is all that crap in the engine bay? I know it's not your daily.. rip that crap out man. Make new fuel lines while your at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Lol, I will make new power steering lines..... someday. Lemme find a job really quick though, then I will do more stuff. And I decided to keep the heater. Got my fuel line done today, btw. Hey emagdnim, what CAS did you use? 90 or 91 style (with or without pigtail)? And what are you holding it to the head with? friction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01356.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angryhero46 Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Dude.. wt.... is all that crap in the engine bay? I know it's not your daily.. rip that crap out man. Make new fuel lines while your at it.I want to see YOUR engine bay and see how clean it looks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 (edited) test fitting the fuel rail with custom line made uphttp://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC01357.JPG Got the manifold bolted up with gasket and rtv.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC01358.JPG New brake booster hose, and 750cc trilogy injectors.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSC01359.JPG Look what I got machined to fit... Oh it's snug, now I need to mod the camshaft. What a money pit.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01360.JPG It's dark, but you can see, with the fuel rail and cas so close to the firewall, I better not have any front-to-back movement.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01361.JPG This is kindof what it'll look like, you can see the sending and return fuel lines all in place, the dip stick tube bent and in place. I'm getting anxious to get this package with two sensors, I have to get some kind of tube for the coolant to go under the intake manifold. I had to leave my car today because I'm at an impass - I need to get my cam modded and installed, need to figure out how to hold the CAS in place, need to get the last couple sensors installed and when all that fun stuff is done, I have to figure out the wiring harness. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01362.JPG Rotate the elbow for the throttle cable downward then it reaches the TB easily. Edited September 23, 2011 by Technology Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 The throttle cable seems pretty impossible, but it's easier to do if you remove the cable and bend the tube where it needs to be. Mine is basically facing straight down and the throttle cable goes into the bracket on the driver's side of the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emagdnim Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 I want to see YOUR engine bay and see how clean it looks Click this link. http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...asc&start=0 :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angryhero46 Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 I want to see YOUR engine bay and see how clean it looks Click this link. http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...asc&start=0 :wink:So what you got a ton of s*** to put in unless im missing something.Looks good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emagdnim Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 Just a few more things. Now lets see your engine bay, yours must be really sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 angryhero, don't you have that knife edged crank? If so then he's got us all beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angryhero46 Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Just a few more things. Now lets see your engine bay, yours must be really sweet.Soon.Soon.Probably painting it in a week or so.Im just saying you were ragging on my thread before and didnt give me any help to get rid of anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emagdnim Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I wasn't ragging on you, Hell I was seriously confused what all that crap was. You should post pictures of your engine bay when your done with it.... Because I'm not done with mine yet, and I felt like putting the pics of its current progress was cheating on it. Hopefully you'll step your game up before trying to call people out. :wink: Oh, and BTW.. I'm allowed to rag on tech.. we have an understanding of R04ness... so try not to get to offended when I'm talking to him. I can't wait for your show and tell thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 Here's some more from today. I'll be moving my car closer to me in a few days so I'll be able to get'er done faster. yeah I said it. This is the water neck base arear and wouldn't you know it, Chad, the man had these holes tapped for 3/4" pipe thread, and lo and behold GM made their sensors 3/4 pipe also!!!! My mind was blown when it all worked perfectly after I guessed which sensors to get. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01369.JPG Here you can see I've ghetto rigged the throttle cable so it stays. That's what those stock-reusable zip ties are for, I tell you!http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01370.JPG Here I did some goofy stuff. I rotated the throttle cable down like I was told and wow, that works great, puts it right where it should be, and the heat wrap keeps the cable from rubbing on the powersteering box, which it does indeed touch. Then I tried to figure out how to go about fitting the coolant hose for the heater core. It was running into the fuel rail so I thought, well, the thing must be like a little radiator, and mitsu would have been retarded to make it flow only one direction, so I switched the hoses. Now coolant will flow the other direction through the core. And everything back there is happy now and doesn't rub anywhere.http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01371.JPG Sorry for the blurry image, I just didn't want anyone to see the brand of my 5 bar MAP sensor. (yeah, it's mounted to a wiring harness branch but it won't get any big shocks from bumps in the road.)http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01372.JPG And here I reused those nice little twist-holders to keep the vacuum line for the FPR close to the fuel rail. Things will get tidied up when I get it running. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01373.JPG But it keeps getting closer and that makes me happy. It's getting kicked out of its current storage spot because it takes up too much (otherwise empty) space and that is too much for the g-parents to handle. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1st_gen_eclipse_89 Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 i might be wrong cause i've never taken apart or even seen how the heatercore in our starquest work, but i think if you reverse the water lines, your gonna let the hot water into you heater core, bypassing the valve on the other side and its gonna be pretty warm in your car when the engine warms up. i might wrong so someone check me on this. the valve stops the hot water from coming in on one side. if you switch them around, then there is nothing to stop the water from going through the heater core. now the water goes through the core and stops at the valve at the other end. i tihnk... :-k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 Oh, well then if that's true, I'm screwed. Maybe I should just gut the dash and remove the heater core. It's the popular thing to do these days. Or maybe I could re-route them again, but it's so convenient this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1st_gen_eclipse_89 Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 if you dont want to use the heater core just plug the two hoses, or jump them to one another. you dont have to remove the core. if you need the heater core, just get some longer hose and re-route it around whatever is in your way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 Well, I looked up heater cores and saw that there is a valve inside, but also usually a box, and I'm sure our's has a box around it. Even if it flows backward, if the valve is closed, it won't really circulate it too much, so it might get hot, but not too bad. Oh well, we'll see. I kinda want to gut the dash anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 Got the brake lines attatched - that is the <2 dollar ABS elimination kit. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01342.JPG hey did you have trouble with only getting like two threads screwed down on this? the part I got has thread higher up on the screw leaving only room to get a few threads on. Just wondered if you had same issue.... yours looks like it didn't get good threadage. I got line at Napa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 So the zip tie is what's holding the stock cable end on. I have a TB just like yours.Scored it for $5 with tps.Then realized the rotor was all backwards conpared to others I seen here.Mine come off a 4.6 T-bird.The throttle cable comes at it from the front of the car. I was just gonna get a universal throttle cable kit and make it work on the return spring hole. But I am a long way from that yet.Don't have a Magna yet nor a running motor. Yes;zip tie rule.My work place would fall apart without them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 (edited) Got the brake lines attatched - that is the <2 dollar ABS elimination kit. http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/529/medium/DSC01342.JPG hey did you have trouble with only getting like two threads screwed down on this? the part I got has thread higher up on the screw leaving only room to get a few threads on. Just wondered if you had same issue.... yours looks like it didn't get good threadage. I got line at Napa Mine was threaded enough, I was able to tighten it plenty. I don't think it will have any problems, but one reason for the ABS elim is the master cyl was leaking last fall, so I got a new-used one and I wanted to see where most of my brake fluid had gone since I couldn't find a puddle. I took off the booster to empty it, thinking it had gone in there, but there was nothing in there, I dunno. EDIT: it doesn't work like this, you have to cut off one end and put stock ends on and reflare the line. Edit #2: the master cylinder was leaking, a new one fixed the problem. Edited April 29, 2009 by Technology Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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