Preludedude Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Ive searched, and see ALOT of ppl using tank/pressure. I dont have access to this so heres my dilemma: Today, we tried to get the engine cranked up since rebuilding it a few years ago. When we built the engine, we used assembly lube on all bearings, etc... So, I unplugged injectors and dont have spark plugs in, so there is no compression, making turning over the engine easier... We turned it over a good bit, and never seen oil come out of the turbo oil feed line (we have it disconnected also) We did not prime the pump on the rebuild. I did put 1/2qt in Oil Cooler and 1/2qt in Oil Filter (which some spilled out when installing) (((Questions))) 1. Should I take off valve cover to see oil when it comes up the head? 2. Do I need to just squirt oil into the oil filter area to let it run down to the pump? 3. Do I need to just keep turning engine over until I see oil at turbo line? 4. How long do I hold the starter turning without burning it up? And how long to let it cool off? What pattern? 10seconds turning? 10seconds to cool? Rinse and repeat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 1 - Don't take your cover off, if you get pressure it'll be a mess. Looking through the oil cap you can tell quite easily if you have pressure or not - it flies everywhere. 2- You should have noticed when you were reading up on the threads about using the pressure tank, there is hex head plug in the side of the block (passenger side) just below where the oil return line is off the turbo to the front case. If you take that out and thread an adapter in there (it's a BSPT) you can fill your oil pump with oil from there. I primed my oil pump during rebuild, but I wasn't getting oil pressure either, so I "thought" I hadn't primed it properly and used this method. Turned out I used the wrong gasket on my oil pump, but that's another story. See my build thread link below and go to page #7, post #130 and you can see what I'm talking about. Best part is you can thread a pressure gauge in there too and see if you actually have pressure coming from the pump. Good luck. 3 - Do number 2 first. 4 - Don't go crazy, but with the plugs out you're not working it too hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks for the help. What adapter do I need to buy? And do I just let it gravity feed into it? How much oil do I need to let run into that plug to fill the pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
station Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Put a cloth over the valve cover when you take it off. If it is soaked in about 5 seconds, you have oil flowing to the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 This is the fitting I used from Summit Racing. I own a bunch of Mitsu's so I always keep a bunch of these handy. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2269 Once you have that threaded into the block you can use regular NPT fittings to create some sort of a spout. Use a small funnel and you'll only be adding a few ounces of oil. I used a slightly heavier weight oil when I filled mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 When I did my rebuild I just lubed everything up well and then used the starter motor to turn the engine over many times without fuel or spark connected. Then when I started the car I saw the oil pressure gauge rise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 When I did my rebuild I just lubed everything up well and then used the starter motor to turn the engine over many times without fuel or spark connected. Then when I started the car I saw the oil pressure gauge rise. That is what I did, but my oil pump was primed with Clevite bearing guard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 You don't need a fitting for the hex plug hole, ,just a small piece of vacuum line. You can either suck oil into the line then deposit it in the opening, or hook it to a handheld oilcan with a pump (got mine at Harbor Freight). If you go the vacuum line you'll need to do it several times. It's how I did mine after the BSEK. Worked like a charm. I wouldn't keep cranking a motor if you're not sure it's pumping oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted October 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 (edited) You don't need a fitting for the hex plug hole, ,just a small piece of vacuum line. You can either suck oil into the line then deposit it in the opening, or hook it to a handheld oilcan with a pump (got mine at Harbor Freight). If you go the vacuum line you'll need to do it several times. It's how I did mine after the BSEK. Worked like a charm. I wouldn't keep cranking a motor if you're not sure it's pumping oil.This sounds like the easist..I may try this route....I dont want to keep turning engine over as much as I have been...Just paranoid..I know I lubed journal bearings good, but the constant rotation without oil makes me weary.... vbrad511, how much oil do you think needs to be filled into that hole before pump is full enough to create suction/pressure...full qt? 3/4 of qt? Edited October 16, 2014 by Preludedude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 It's not a lot of oil. Like I said in my post above, you're only going to be able to get a few ounces in there before it overflows. Have a rag handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted October 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 What size is the hex head plug? Will Allen wrench get enough torque to get it out or will I need a hex head socket with rachet?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I forget what size it is. Probably like a 6mm. I don't think you'll get it with an allen key wrench - you're probably gonna need a hex socket. You might be able to get it with a Tee handle if you have one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I think the plug is a 5.5 mm Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Well...5.5mm too big....5mm has a little bit of play....7/32 is too big....What in the world is the size? Lol....I broke the 5mm hex socket trying to get it loose. 5mm seems to work if I could get it loose. Engine is in car so I can't put heat on it. Guess wd40 and elbow grease... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippynerd Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 I did the same thing that you did, I dont have a tank either. I was able to get some pressure (I could see oil move in the mechanical gauge that I set up), but the needle didnt move on the gauge. I could tell oil was moving, but not enough oil pressure to move the needle. I put the plugs back in, hooked the injectors up, started the motor, and the oil pressure popped right up, but the engine was making an unhappy sound, so I shut it off. Im in the process of removing the engine again to find the bad thing. I was not able to get my prime plug out, but when I took the block to be cleaned and honed, it came back without the plug. I now use that hole for my mechanical gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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