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kev

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kev last won the day on March 13

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    PA
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    Male

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    17202
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  • Model Year
    1987
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    Black
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    On the road

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  1. Yes, you have good fuel pressure. Do you hear any increased noise of the fuel pump as it gets warmer? Typically, if the pump is the issue, It will be howling loud when it is hot. If not, I'd put aside fuel (but leave that gauge on there if you can). Injectors may be a culprit though but being that it does run when cold, I'm not sure I'd focus on them at the moment. Any air leaks in the intake system? The smallest of a leak can cause the car to die, especially after it comes up to temp...including vacuum leaks. You can cap off every vacuum port and try it...leaving it at idle (don't drive the car without at least the vac advance connected though, but idling is fine). Any codes on the ECU? In the video, it looks like there is a bunch of stuff added to your car over the years (turbo timer, etc.). Disconnect all of that as you work to diagnose your problem. I've learned to always start with what either I or a previous owner 'changed/altered' on the car.
  2. I use 'SEM trim black' on the window trim and really all of the satin black trim on these cars, as well as any car really. I love the stuff.
  3. When it goes to stall, can you keep it running at all...by goosing the throttle, etc? The coolant temperature sensor may be the issue. If you connect a 300 ohm resistor between the two poles of the connector, it will simulate a fully warm condition. Worth a try if you have a resistor handy (I miss radioshack).
  4. I thought I'd put a follow-up on my original post on the status of my winter project. I believe I have the body work complete, at least for the near term. Wow, what a PIA! I'm so glad I made the decision NOT to paint the entire car. It was just so much work. This was probably one of my worst paint jobs. I laid too much material when spraying my clear and it resulted in several runs and drags. That entailed many hours of work to repair. There still are a few minor sags in the paint here and there, visible in right lighting/angle, but being that this thing is a driver, I'm ok with it. All in all, I'm finally pretty happy with it. The paint matches the original very well after a lot of cutting/buffing. Oops, finger in the frame.. Never mind the stone chips in the header panel, etc....those are panels still in original paint. But it all blended in well. I need to paint the C pillar panels and the rear louvers (pulled those off for now)...but these will be just rattle can satin black. Finishing restoring my spare set of 7/8" wheels will be the spring/summer project. Right now, I'm just trying to get it back together and drivable. kev
  5. Crows foot and a long extension will enable you to undo the HP fitting on the top of the box from the top. Just take your time, don't want to strip that fitting. The hard part is snaking out/in the line without bending it (well at least the new one). Other hard part is starting the threads on the HP fitting into the top of the box on that new line. Get that started before you have the line fully constrained in place because you may have to wiggle it around a bit to get the threads started and snug.
  6. Welcome back! I'm mostly just a lurker on FB...it's not really my cup of tea, for many reasons. Going to Carlisle this year? I'm contemplating it; import mainly but possibly Chrysler too. Also want to get out to the lehigh valley in the spring and possibly meet up with a few members.
  7. Yes, it is hard to compare being that I stripped away all of the factory sound-deadening as well as highly modified the car (suspension, exhaust, etc. etc). So, I really only have my stock 88 to compare it with. I will say that the stereo system sounds real good. Zero rattles with the subwoofer which was something I always had with this same sound system in conquests (including this same car prior to the restoration). I don't regret doing all of this but not sure I'd jump into similar project on another car in the future. Thus, I fully agree with the route you are going.
  8. I'm glad to hear that!
  9. It should work for either. I also have a downpipe that was given to me with my driver quest, that I believe to be a TEP but can't confirm. It has the chamfer seat which allows mating to the factory exhaust (which is how I have it installed) but it has a two bolt flange which should work fine with a standard 2.25" 2 bolt exhaust gasket. I think you should be OK.
  10. I view this differently and would actually consider it if it were more local to me. Although, I'm partial because my first car was an 84 starion ES. It's hard to see if it has a lot of rust though. I assume it does being that it sat in a fiel, but who knows. Although, I see it only comes with a bill of sale. I was always told that getting a new Pennsylvania title is practically impossible. It's amazing how different that process is depending on the state you are in. I know that PA junkyards typically give you a salvage title when purchasing a car like this.
  11. Parts cost and availability have been changing so rapidly over the past few years, I'm not sure I could provide any reasonable estimates anymore. I will say that the most beneficial modification that I have experienced in over 30 years of driving these cars is an MPI conversion. It is, by far, the most noticeable performance improvement, enhanced tuneability, and increased the reliability of the car. Although it is the most expensive modification I've performed and does require a bit of fabrication, even after you source a manifold.
  12. Very interesting, specifically the mustang 3.8L. I had a few friends over the years who had 6 cyl mustangs and always had the vision to create a super fast v6. None of them actually retained the car, either updated to a v8 car or got out of the hobby by buying some boring SUV or something. Anyways, that looks incredible! And I love the 94 mustangs! I have a large dealer poster of the 94 mustang hanging in my garage. My father was a service mechanic at a ford dealer at the time and got me that poster that was on the sales floor for the 94 model year. I also had the opportunity to drive a 93 cobra and a new 94 gt, both of which were on the sales floor at the time, when I was only 16 years old..thanks to him working there. As to the mustang, good eye! But it is actually a 68 fastback 390GT/4 sp car, red on red. That car was and is my true dream car. Unfortunately, I've been working on this stupid black car for the past 2 years or so and ignoring the stang and my other 'good' conquest, for that matter. I'd love to hear about your 67 sometime. BTW, I'm originally from the Lehigh Valley. That dealer I mentioned was Bethlehem Ford. I'm hoping to get that way this summer. Techboy and I keep saying we will meet up but two summers have gone by and it hasn't happened, well at least with our cars. Need to plan on something this year and meet up with the lehigh valley CQ owners.
  13. I have the pictures but haven't had the desire to re-create the thread. I'm not sure I could even remember the write-up portions of what was lost from 2014 to current. If there is anything specific you would like to see, let me know and I can see what I can do.
  14. Snapped a few pictures this morning. This is with everything wet sanded with 400grit. Needs some filler touch-ups, then spot prime (maybe full re-prime) with epoxy/re-wet sand. It's getting close.
  15. Felt like posting something generic this early monday morning as I dread starting my workweek. What are your winter projects this year? For me, I've been back working on the body of my 88 driver cq. I started the body work back in 2021 with some minor rust repair on the rear quarters behind the wheels. This was a very rust free car but it appears that the hatch took on water at one time and rotted out just these lower spots behind the wheel wells. There is no other rust on this car, not even the passenger frame rail. I had detailed photos on here of my repair, which included custom shaping new steel from flat sheet metal, but they were wiped out with the server crash. I had the weld repairs complete and sprayed the panels with a coat of epoxy primer in preparation for body filler to smooth everything out when my truck blew an engine at only 80k. I had to quickly toss this car on the road while I assessed the truck. Two years have gone by I noticed some very small rust forming on a few locations where I did the weld repairs, particularly where there were a few small pin holes in the welds. I didn't want to drive this car another winter and let this propagate, so I decided to pull it into the garage and move further on the body. I mitigated the little bit of the rust via sanding and rust converting and jumped into the filler work. My focus has been on both quarters, the drivers door, a good portion of the passenger fender, both bumpers, and the front spoiler. Last week, I applied two thick coats of epoxy and wet sanded smooth. I have a few areas to touch up with additional filler. After, I'll spot prime the touched up areas, wet sand, and hopefully I'll be ready for BC/CC. I haven't taken too many photos of this process but here are a few. Drivers quarter work. Applied filler over the rust repairs and the door dings (this car is littered with door dings for being stuck and in garages motionless for over 20 years). That door was sanded by a prior owner many years back, it wasn't even touched by me at this point. After my filler repairs to the quarter and door, two thick coats of black epoxy and guide coat in prep for wet sanding. I'm painting the full quarter (which will be up to the roof line although I only primed to the bottom of the C pillar for now) and the full door and rocker panel cover. The little pieces of tape on the panels were small dings I missed during filler that I noticed right away when I painted the primer. I've since found a few more attention areas post block wet-sanding. Passenger quarter and fender. The quarter had the same repair as the opposite (filler over the rust repair and amending door dings). The fender was lightly hit at some time that required a bit of reshaping and filler work. I'll be blending in the paint on this panel, we will see how it goes. Black is pretty forgiving when it comes to that being that it doesn't have any metallic flake in it. I didn't snap any photos of the bumpers/spoiler. The back bumper was scratched bad from stuff being piled against it in garages for years as well as the original paint chipping off of it. The front spoiler appeared that it was rattle canned black without scuffing the paint and was chipping bad, showing the white paint underneath. The front bumper wasn't that bad besides faded but I'm spraying it while I'm here. I'd really love to spray the entire car but just these panels alone have been so time consuming. I've already been at it since late October. As mentioned earlier, the car it littered with door dings, they appear on every metal panel of the car! You can see them on the passenger door in the photos above. It is so time consuming to do the filler work on these, especially on the body lines of the door. Also, I have to get this car back on the road soon. My oldest son drives it often and is the back-up for his 30 year old car that also needs some mechanical work. Plus, my younger son will be getting his permit soon and he will be learning on this car. These are other reasons why I don't want to invest too much time on this car, with two teenagers driving it regularly. Thus, I plan to paint these panels, wet sand the entire car with 3000 grit and cut/buff it. I think it will look pretty good besides the door dings. I can always come back later for the remaining panels. I also have been wanting to learn PDR. I think that passenger door is a great candidate to learn.
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