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Lets do a basic rebuild


Dad
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I've had some pics around and it looks like I may have enough information to assist you in a rebuild. Perhaps in the future I can add/edit pics and info.

 

Lets assume that you already have the engine apart. One thing is get the block and parts hot tanked/ cleaned

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm3.jpg

jm3.jpg.111b488526ab31f0e3e35dfe60d36a27.jpg

 

 

Nest step would be to have it Magnafluxed for cracks. i would suggest that you find a shop that uses the wet method machine like this one.. The little powder systems just don find cracks well.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P1010108.jpg

P1010108.jpg.7ba6c60650ae4391e4f270b1849aa224.jpg

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm4.jpg

jm4.jpg.910bcf300f584ba6d09848309f08f8bc.jpg

 

 

Here is what a cracked block looks like in the Magnaflux. Yes that is a 2.6 block.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/26crackblk.jpg

26crackblk.jpg.acd42ec3d7f09fc5b3808764260d641b.jpg

 

 

You will most likely have your crankshaft checked for size and straightness.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/qcrank2.jpg

qcrank2.jpg.29736a67668afb871be0bb56797bdac6.jpg

 

And then also a Magnaflux check for cracks.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/qcrank1.jpg

qcrank1.jpg.9b0628fc2f7936fd61be205f55ba9805.jpg

 

If its good it will either be polished or ground to the next under-size.

 

Good time to have your connecting rods reconditioned with New ARP rod bolts at the bare minimum.

Bushing the rods for floating pins is an option as long as you have a JE or wiseco piston with the lock rings.

Stock pistons or aftermarket Hyperetectic do not have the provision for floating pins.

 

Lets get back to the block- Time to resurface the deck...

You want to be sure the shop has your gear cover installed for this process.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3140008.jpg

P3140008.jpg.59a490ee7bc573f6d48087dda65cd062.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the block after just a .001 pass. notice the areas that did not clean up this shows all the low spots in the deck.

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm5.jpg

jm5.jpg.82f92d5761d72963184615e07f2827b4.jpg

 

 

The surface after .004 total cut....

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm8.jpg

 

 

 

Now just to change over the tooling and bore the cylinders.

Oversize pistons are available 020-030-040 ( .50mm-.75mm-1.00mm )

Normally you would bore the block leaving approx .003 to hone to finish size.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3140009.jpg

 

 

Also if you elected to O/ring the deck this is the time to do it.

Approx .007 protrusion of an .041 stainless wire is what we used for this block.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P6190122.jpg

 

Block with o/rings installed....

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P6190124.jpg

 

OK, Back to our other block that we bored.

 

Now is the time to put it in the hone, We would install the ARP head studs with oil Finger tight ( or with allen wrench).

Or head bolts if you will be using stock bolts.

The head bolt holes are all checked to be sure the bolts go in by hand easily- only if one is bad to we run a tap into the holes.

No need to cut any threads out if the bolts go in by your fingers.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3190039.jpg

 

 

You then Install a head gasket ( A used head gasket of course) and the torque plate.

Use Molly lube on the ARP studs, washers and nuts and torque to 80 lbs in 3 steps.

If using stock bolts oil and the stock torque will do.

 

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3190040.jpg

 

Piston size is check... measurement is recorded....

 

The builder should have Mic's and check this piston size and verify the bore size is correct.

 

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3190041.jpg

 

 

Bore Gage is set and it appears that a little over .003 needs to be honed out of the cylinder.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3190042.jpg

 

The cylinders are honed and crosshatch looks great!

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3240043.jpg

 

Ok, Clean up time for the block.

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260044.jpg

 

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm3.jpg

 

 

When you get your parts back from the machine shop you should use hot soapy water and wash your block, crank, rods etc just before assembly and blow dry. put some light oil in the cylinders and start assembly.

 

Only wash it just before you assemble it. Blow dry good and keep all parts clean.

Large garbage bag over the block is good to keep out dirt.

 

Install the block on the engine stand... now gather your piston oilers..

https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260045.jpg

 

You have 4 jets and 4 plungers. be sure the jets are clean and free of debris, the plungers must be clean, lubricated and move freely- If you look close you should be able to push the plunger with a small screwdriver. As oil pressure reaches the plunger it will open to allow oil to enter the jet.

The jets are directional, 2 lean toward the front and 2 to wards the rear, make note of the position and install the aluminum crush gaskets...

Use oil and torque these to 22 foot lbs.

 

Guess I will have to post this then make another page. There is a limit to the amount of pictures I can post.

Edited by Dad
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https://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260047.jpg

 

 

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260048.jpg

 

 

OK. lets get the main bearings out and install them in the block- Notice the grooved bearings go in the block- Be sure the back of the bearing is clean and DRY_ we will plastigage the crank to verify the bearing clearance.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260051.jpg

 

Wash the crank and blow dry- be sure it's room temp and install it in the block-

take a piece of plastigauge and lay it across each main journal.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260053.jpg

 

Now install the other bearings in the caps.. NO OIL and very clean!

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260054.jpg

 

Install the caps in proper order- they are numbered 1thru 5 and the arrow goes toward the gear cover front of engine- You will need a small mallet to tap the caps down. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK AT ALL.

Use some light oil on the threads of the main bolts and torque to spec.

 

After your torque them all Remove the caps and check the plastigage....

 

Here is a trick to get the center cap off. take a 6MM bolt and thread it in the cap and pry up on the bolt.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260055.jpg

 

Now compare the thickness of the plastigage to the markings on the wrapper..

This is a good .002 clearance..

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260056.jpg

 

Be sure all the bearings have the same reading. If not then you need to find out what the problem is.

 

You can do the same thing on the connecting rods just leave the rings off the pistons.

 

Clean up the residue with brake clean.

 

We check the bearing clearance by micing the bearings, the conn rod bore and the crankshaft then using simple math we can come up with and RECORD the clearance.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3280064.jpg

 

 

Now that we have everything cleaned up and we KNOW what our clearance will be, it's time to install the crank.

Install the bearings in the block DRY- nothing- i mean nothing on the back or in the block- it has to be clear of anything between the back of the bearing and the block or the caps.

I hope I stressed that enough.

Now after the bearings are in and you have the GROOVED Bearings in the block not the caps.

Lets have fun with the LUBE.. ( LOL)

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260058.jpg

 

Put the lube on the bearing surface and on the sides of the thrust bearing, coat the crankshaft mains and install the crank.

Pour lube on the main journals and also on the main bearings that are in the caps. and install the caps in correct order.

 

Just finger tight, and then take a pry bar-- as pictured to set the thrust bearing.

It's hard to see but you want to force the crank forward, or backward- then just snug the center main bolts.

Remove the bar and torque the mains to spec. I do it in 3 steps.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260059.jpg

 

 

After you torque them, you need to check the end clearance - this is why you set the thrust bearing.

It must measure Min .002 Max .007

 

A dial indicator on the nose of the crank will do.

 

This read .003

 

If it's too tight you can loosen the #3 main and try prying again. Sometimes a mallet is needed to hit the nose of the shaft to set it. just be careful and use common sense.

IT MUST HAVE A MINIMUM OF .002 end clearance.

 

And it does not hurt to check that it still floats .002 after you have it installed in the car.

It should float or you have some bind in it.

Record this spec also.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260060.jpg

 

 

I guess it's on to page 3...

Edited by Dad
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Ok, We know the piston clearance, cranks in, clearance is recorded, end play is checked and recorded, we know what the rod bearing clearance is,, so Time for rings,

 

Lets take a #2 position ring and install it in the cylinder- use the top of a piston to help keep it even in the bore.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260062.jpg

 

After you measure the gap with feeler gages you can install that ring on one piston. then check all the other rings and use that ring that is on the piston as a stop- this keeps the ring even in the bore and gives you an accurate reading. If it is crooked in the bore it will read too much of a gap.

You can use this to verify that the gap is correct and on some ring sets you need to file the rings to get the correct gap.

Some rings are fit from the factory and all you are doing is checking that they have the correct gap-

 

Too much gap and they could be the wrong size-- like a std ring set in a 020 package.

The oil rails I have seen always read more gap than factory- this has been on sealed power hastings and wiseco rings. Not an issue but i thought i would let you knw.

The top and second rings are always pretty much right on.

 

Record these clearances also.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3260063.jpg

 

If you have floating pins, install the pistons on the rods and install the pin retaing clips..

Your Thumbs and fingers will love you.

If you have press type rods DO NOT INSTALL THE CLIPS!

The clips are for bushed type rods only.

 

Be sure the piston is on correctley- the Wiseco pistons have a dot on the inside that must go towards the exhaust side of the engine.

Other pistons are marked with an arrow on top that would point to the front. some have no markings- therefore no pin offset and can go either direction. Knowthis before you install them.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3280065.jpg

Install your rings on the pistons by the instructions. If there is a Dot on the ring then that goes up!

 

Install the bearings in the rod and the cap- DO not Mix the caps. be sure NOTHING is between the bearing back and the rod or cap. Lube the bearing, and the crank journal, Install

Rubber protectors on the bolts to keep from knicking the crank journal- That bolt can knick that crank and cause a lock up or damage that bearing.

Stagger the rings, lube the piston, rings, and cylinders and install the piston, rod in the bore- the #52 cast in the rod goes towards the front of the engine and the bearing lock tabe are on the exhaust side of the block. The cap is installed with the bearing tabs on the same side- do not put it on backwards, Most shops stamp the rod number on the rod and cap to keep them in order and the right orientation.

Know what direction they go BEFORE you install them

Torque them to spec- using moly lube if they are arp bolts ( 35lbs)

Rotate the crank 1 revolution and be sure you have side clearance- grab the rod cap and be sure you can move it forward and back. I usually be sure it's there and not excessive,

it cannot be tight.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3280066.jpg

We recorded the bearing clearance at .0015

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/p3280068.jpg

One trick i use to rotate the engine is an old crank gear and a chain wrench--

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/p3280067.jpg

 

 

Repeat this with all 4 pistons and you should be good to go.

 

Front end installation... be sure you use oil or threadlocker when required. NO DRY THREADS and torque the bolts to spec, don't guess.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310070.jpg

 

 

Cam gear install on shelf, notice I paint the link for the cam gear. this is to verify that is the cam link when I prime the engine and rotate it, I like to bring it back into the correct timeing mark since you can no longer see the crank link after the cover is installed.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310071.jpg

 

Install the cover- I like to install as many bolts as i can since I use sealer around the water jacket for the water pump- 3/8 nuts work well as spacers to use untill the pump and A/C bracket is installed- Again I torque these bolts to spec.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310072.jpg

 

ARP studs installed, finger tight, trim the small amount of gear cover gasket sticking up between block and cover ,

I check the piston height in the bore and record that also. Install head gasket and head. Torque to spec.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310074.jpg

 

 

OK on to page 4 - want to save some pic room, Again I want to keep this together..

Dad

Edited by Dad
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One thing i noticed was the front pulley had a pretty good groove from the front seal.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310076.jpg

 

This can be corrected by installing a repair sleeve,

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310077.jpg

 

And No the pulley is good to go.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310078.jpg

 

 

There is also a sleeve available for the rear crankshaft seal area.

 

In order to tighten that pulley bolt I inserted 2 flywheel bolts in the crank and used a pry bar to prevent the crank from turning.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310080.jpg

 

On the filter housing be sure to install a new o/ring on the outer part but also be aware there in an o/ring in the center hole. ( black)

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P3310081.jpg

 

 

Install oil pan, filter,.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/P4010082.jpg

 

Pressure prime the oil system, and ready to ship out the long block.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/prime1.jpg

-

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/prime2.jpg

-Oil coming out of the rockers, this baby is primed!

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/prime3.jpg

-

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/scottyengine.jpg

 

I took 2 old head bolts and cut off the heads to make guides out of them, install both in the crank and you can slide the flywheel up to the crankshaft.

Then you can take a bolt from your engine stand and a box end wrench and another bolt to fit the flywheel, that way you can torque the flywheel to

crank bolts without the engine turning over.

 

here is a pic.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/fwinstall.jpg

 

 

I'm sure that I skipped over a lot, I have had these pics for some time and wanted to get going on this., so Ii hope in the future I can add/ edit it again.

 

I hope you get the idea that things need to be checked and rechecked as you assemble the engine, You should also record your specs in case you need to reference back to them

 

Just want to share this with a great bunch of people that I have had the pleasure of either meeting in person, on the phone or just in posts.

 

Dad

Edited by Dad
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Averse- It's really Basic, Theres a lot more that needs covered but I feel this area does not get much attention.

Just elaborating that you need to check and record specs, Too many times there is a problem and you can't pinpont what the cause was when you don't know what the spec was to begin with.

I have a machine shop but you can't trust machinists, we are people and can make mistakes. You need to check and recheck things as it goes together.

I could cut my time in half if i just assemble it and assume that the machine work is right- but we are all human and can/do make mistakes.

 

 

Star- It's ok, I'm happy if you just like me. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

 

Norats- you are welcome.

 

 

Marso - no way your block is halfway encased in foam, Besides that was the first 2.6 that i o/ringed, haven't heard back- probably good that way- no news= good news? :character0285:

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Here is a pic of the block after just a .001 pass. notice the areas that did not clean up this shows all the low spots in the deck.

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/jm5.jpg

 

Nobody cared that I posted that years ago on my site and how to deal with it and what a major problem it is but I get called names and ignored. This is why people have been blowing head gaskets for years and didn't know why and blamed it on all sorts of other things like too much boost or stretched bolts and weak non-turbo headgaskets. That is far out of spec for flattness just this tiny bit but it can be fixed at home. I'm glad you posted that everyone needs to be aware of this.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM000170.JPG

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2 Questions (One directed at Indiana).

 

1: Indiana- How would you fix the deck issue at home?

 

 

2: DAD - How did you get that rear main seal stuff on ? Did you remove the block from the stand after having the crank in? I ended up putting the motor on the stand sideways (Clamping to the accessories bolt holes on the right (driver) side of the motor) curious about how u did it..

 

Great write-up btw, I like the pics and explanations of the Pistons squirters .. U gonna make me finish my spare block this winter.

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2 Questions (One directed at Indiana).

 

1: Indiana- How would you fix the deck issue at home?

 

 

2: DAD - How did you get that rear main seal stuff on ? Did you remove the block from the stand after having the crank in? I ended up putting the motor on the stand sideways (Clamping to the accessories bolt holes on the right (driver) side of the motor) curious about how u did it..

 

Great write-up btw, I like the pics and explanations of the Pistons squirters .. U gonna make me finish my spare block this winter.

 

 

D- Yes I had to remove the block from the stand, set it on the bench and install the seal.

 

Indiana, looks like the same block.

 

Dad

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That little bit, you may think its not any big deal but it is. Put a head on your block without a gasket then flip it over, try to put feeler gauges in the gaps and you'll get a surprise.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM000171.JPG

 

Dad, that isn't the same block that you have. Every block I've checked ALL had the same issue. Heat, time and stress from the bolts pulls up the block around the threads or it pushes the middle where the steel fire rings are take your pick but it happens. I deleted many pictures of the same issue I had up before but if you look around my site there are others on different pages of differrent blocks.

 

Google "stoning" or "stone surfacing" or somerthing like that and see that's its been used as long as man knew he could make one surface another using stones. The machine shop here gave us that idea years ago after we asked about having a block decked and he talked about the types of machines there were to do that and that they used to use a machine that used stones but it was a pita from the stinky water always needed to be changed. He gave me the idea after I took a block down for him to check out that I bought with a car and that shop in Elizabethtown, KY had use a BELT SANDER to deck this block and it had deep marks in it you could cath your finger nail in and suggested I get a stone and see if I could cut those marks down. He said they used to use stones to do this same thing in the "old days". First block we did showed that the block was low in the middle. This is the same block we were running over 30psi on in the picture that I posted. The links for websites get put in signatures or posted on purpose in big bold letters so everyone will see them but mine isn't stuck out there like that its just small characters and I guess people just aren't interested or they see the link and think its for a truck and don't want to look around -or they think they know it all but some would be surprised. Did everyone remember to align the number three main cap so they aren't pushing against only HALF of the thrust bearing? You can show them a clean motor like that but just putting in bearing inserts people can screw up and its the little things like that is what I have tried to show.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/thrust_bearings.htm

 

 

here's another block, the stone will cut down the outer edges and it take time, hour or more maybe depends on how bad it is.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM001719.JPG

 

and another, its in back around that water passage and the thin section at the cylinder wall where the gaskets like to blow out

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/88WB/IM003365.JPG

 

You use a stone to sharpen a knife, its the same principle its just flat. There would be allot less blown headgaskets if people would just do this one thing. Most aren't going to have a machine shop work on their block, they don't have the money or they think since its clean and shiney that's all that matters but oh no its not.

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Indiana, I love B2600. i have so many print outs from there... from the FPR to the power steering line. that site is so helpful

 

and this is awesome. it makes assembling a motor a much less scary task.

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, they don't have the money or they think since its clean and shiney that's all that matters but oh no its not.

 

 

 

LOL you got that right- good post on those blocks, I like the thrust bearing info too.

 

Dad

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GREAT POST Randy,

 

I was especially interested in the picture of the block surfacing after the first 0.001" surfacing pass. How far down did you have to go until the "depression" between the cylinders was surfaced? .004"?

 

If so, as Indiana said, that explans the blown head gaskets between nos. 2 & 3 cylinders. Was that the area that was the lowest on the entire block surface?

 

Another question, during the assembly of the short block did you use all of the FSM designated torque values as "wet" torque values?

 

Once again, GREAT JOB!!!! :ylsuper: :thumbsup:

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS I can't wait for the enhancements.

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GREAT POST Randy,

 

I was especially interested in the picture of the block surfacing after the first 0.001" surfacing pass. How far down did you have to go until the "depression" between the cylinders was surfaced? .004"?

 

If so, as Indiana said, that explans the blown head gaskets between nos. 2 & 3 cylinders. Was that the area that was the lowest on the entire block surface?

 

Another question, during the assembly of the short block did you use all of the FSM designated torque values as "wet" torque values?

 

Once again, GREAT JOB!!!! :ylsuper: :thumbsup:

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS I can't wait for the enhancements.

 

 

Ken, it was .004 before it cleaned up- I actually took cuts in increments of .001 ea time.

 

I think it was lowest between 2 and 3 but can't recall- these are older pics.

 

All the torques were from the FSM ( with exception of ARP fasteners) and I never install any bolt dry.

 

Randy

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Interesting stuff. I found a machinist on youtube once that showed the differences between belt sanding a head and milling a head. The sander put those deep directional marks on the sucker and naturally there was no way to know how much pressure was put on one end versus the other so your head could end up slanted - in addition to the grooves.
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Interesting stuff. I found a machinist on youtube once that showed the differences between belt sanding a head and milling a head. The sander put those deep directional marks on the sucker and naturally there was no way to know how much pressure was put on one end versus the other so your head could end up slanted - in addition to the grooves.

 

 

 

I have found the best thing a belt sander is for is manifolds.

 

Dad

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  • 2 weeks later...

Randy,

 

When you decked the block 0.004" to get the deck even: how many degrees did those 0.004" retard the cam timimg?

 

Did you degree in the cam by drilling another "pin" hole in the cam gear/sprocket at the proper degree to adjust it?

 

If so, what method/degree wheel did you use?

 

Do you have any pictures of this?

 

Thanks.

 

KEN

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