Jump to content

Better Oil Separator For Your SQ


Recommended Posts

Found this separator online. It has larger in/out ports and should scavenge more crankcase gasses than the stock separator. These can be found for under $20. They came stock on BMW X5s. What do you guys think?

 

 

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1389418944_1/E52-E53-X5-Alpina-font-b-Oil-b-font-font-b-Separator-b-font-Crankcase-Ventilation.jpg

 

 

http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/images/parts/bmw/fullsize/42873.jpg

Edited by ucw458
Link to comment
Share on other sites

SQ separators clog up too. Most of the BMW issues were around 100k miles. I checked my stock separator every other oil change to make sure it was working. Why not check this one once in awhile too. They are so inexpensive to replace.

 

The BMW issues are also from lack of maintenance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, one that flows more would certainly help. New for under $20 is hard to beat. I'll keep my eyes open in the yards too. Sometimes they will charge a couple of bucks for parts like that, or throw them in for free if you are buying something else. I can usually pack my luggage with cool parts for under $100.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! I bet you can find a better place to mount it out of sight too. Clear up some space around the top of the air can. Maybe not much of an advantage space wise, but clearing out space up top always surprises me as to how much easier it is to work on anything near or under it.

Except the separator may be the one thing that has to be up high. Thus the reason it is on cars I've seen. At least above the oil port on the pan.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Road draft...... = Free

 

lol Yeah, it is. But oil accumulates under the car. You get enough accumulated oil on or near exhaust and you'll be flaming down the road!

 

Besides, venting into the atmosphere is so unfriendly to the environment. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just get a properly baffled catch can and route back into the intake. Why not just reinstall your seperator before smoging the car? Also using BMW parts are asking for trouble IMHO. I've put together over 25 dsm's with rebuilt motors and never once had rings not seat because of lack of crank case gasses venting. In fact dsm's don't have oil seperators. They have a hose from the valve cover to the intake tube and a baffled valve cover. Is that a Cali thing?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol Yeah, it is. But oil accumulates under the car. You get enough accumulated oil on or near exhaust and you'll be flaming down the road!

 

Besides, venting into the atmosphere is so unfriendly to the environment. :lol:

 

O I'm already flaming down the road with a 38MM waste gate open dumping downward. WOW you must use some cheep oil if it's got a flash point low enough for exaust to light it.

 

Road draft = not smog legal in all smog states.

 

Also road draft can't pull a vacuum on the crank case under boost to help the rings seal.

 

True you need to add in check valves in line so I guess not a true slash cut road draft tube, nor free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a few don't understand when the oil separator actually works , while the engine is actually running it's job is to become a resivor of oil mist not a bucket full of oil , once the engine it turned off the oil sepperates from the mixture of mist and oil droplets it is supposed to drain back into the oil pan ,, while an engine is running and being placed in to boost it is impossible for oil to flow out of any design of oil separator back into the engine oil pan

 

any heavy flow or build up of oil in the separator is saying you have an over blow by problem that needs to be addressed , the stock oem oil separator will work as good or better then any unit you can buy at any $$$ amount

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm subscribing to hear updates on how that BMW separator works out. It's that or this stock one going in for me.

 

Any foreseeable probs. with running that WITH KVs? Nothing more than 1 way check valves. Prob. not needed on rear port?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will be awhile before my car hits the road again. I'm replacing everything on the exhaust side of my car with bigger stuff. But I don't see a problem with this setup. BMW puts this on 4+ liter V8s so it should be more than enough for a 2.6

 

 

I don't recommend using KVs with this. A check valve is going to prevent the PCV from drawing fresh air into the crankcase. It can lead to the oil getting contaminated faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ID use that bmw filter but those ports do not look like 3/8ths.

 

I want to use this.

 

http://www.jegs.com/.../52205/10002/-1

 

ill need to block off the oil drain but this setup should be perfect for 20 psi.

 

You need MORE flow not less. 3/8 ports are not enough. Besides that separator you posted is garbage. Regardless of how it's listed that is NOT for a car. It's meant for air compressor. And they don't even do a good job on an air compressor. You will regret spending $ on that.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't recommend using KVs with this. A check valve is going to prevent the PCV from drawing fresh air into the crankcase. It can lead to the oil getting contaminated faster.

 

 

the PCV draws air into the crankcase? odd

Edited by Funky Phil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the stock oem oil separator will work as good or better then any unit you can buy at any $$$ amount

 

Even an aux vacume pump? Not that I would really ever worry about taking it that far, but just curious why it can't be done better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vacuum pump would be best.

 

That's what I was thinking too...... As for worth the money and effort.... yeah I would agree it's not worth it. But at any $ I think it would be the best solution too.

 

 

Also IDK how many have run catch cans, but if you have and if you empt them out and really look at it or send it off to get examined.... I would rather keep that stuff from going back into my motor, and add a bit of oil between changes as apposed to just letting it drain back into the oil system. It's also better at removing condensation and not letting that just drain back into the pan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

so you want that interpreted for you??

 

purpose of a pcv is to allow pressure out and NOT in. Purpose of the rear port being open is to prevent gasket failure under high vacuum situations.

 

Shelby is correct, if you have a stockish car the stock cvs is perfectly capable.

 

Any upgraded setups, as in Enlarged ring gaps will need something better like enlarged lines qnd ports as UCW stated. Vacuum is your friend regardless of where it comes from.

 

If your on a tightly sealed stock ring gap setup with a smallish turbo, you dont NEED to upgrade, but I cant say your wrong for doing so. Better is just better in this case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...