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Valve Lash Settings


kfitts
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On a cold engine it should be .007in. Now that's on a stock cam so I'm not sure if it should be any different for the Screamin Banshee. I suggest contacting Tim and seeing if he has any recommendations, as it is his cam... But I would think the .007in is just fine...
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Thanks jr_ss,

 

I PM Tim,

 

Just need to set them cold until I get it running. Then I can set them hot.

It still will be awhile before I get it going. Waiting on my turbo and header. Also the Hurricane setup.

 

Should run nice once its tuned.

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I got a reply from Tim,

 

 

Tim_C.

.006 intake

.008 exhaust

 

Typically, you always want to go .001-.002 tighter than factory spec on any mech cam install. With the exceptions being only a very large lift race cam. That can require .001-.002 looser than factory, with a bit more noise at idle.

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I got a reply from Tim,

 

 

Tim_C.

.006 intake

.008 exhaust

 

Typically, you always want to go .001-.002 tighter than factory spec on any mech cam install. With the exceptions being only a very large lift race cam. That can require .001-.002 looser than factory, with a bit more noise at idle.

 

I run tims cam...

 

 

.010 and .010 run very well.

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I found something funny when doing my valve lash... well only when I just crank the engine over a bit to get the lobes 180 degrees from the rocker arms instead of setting TDC or BDC. But when the lobe on the cam gets almost 90 degrees from the rocker arm it measures allot looser then when the lobe on the cam is 180 degrees, facing away from the rocker arm.

 

Why is that??

 

Ohhh yea just to make sure when you adjust the valve lash you want the lobe pointing 180 degrees away from the rocker arm right??

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I agree with Tim.

.006 intake

.008 exhaust

 

But there are always guys that can run something other than recommended that works.

 

You will be better served contacting Tim and working with him to dial this cam in.

 

My cams are regrinds and as far as I know his are not.

It is always best to work with the cam provider just incase something isn't right with the cam.

Some like 8/8 some 6/8 and some 10/10 but you gotta start with what is recommended.

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I found something funny when doing my valve lash... well only when I just crank the engine over a bit to get the lobes 180 degrees from the rocker arms instead of setting TDC or BDC. But when the lobe on the cam gets almost 90 degrees from the rocker arm it measures allot looser then when the lobe on the cam is 180 degrees, facing away from the rocker arm.

 

Why is that??

 

Ohhh yea just to make sure when you adjust the valve lash you want the lobe pointing 180 degrees away from the rocker arm right??

 

 

No reponses :roll: without checking for TDC or BDC cna I just point the cam lobes away from rocker arm and be okay adjusting them at that point farthest from the lobe??

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Hmm well the thing is I have no tools where I am at to turn the engine over manually while looking at it. I unplug the distributor and just tap the key to crnak it over till the lob of the cam is farthest away from the rocker arm.

 

Is this an okay method?? Just want to make sure thats the lobe to rocker position it needs to be at for valve lash adjusting. :)

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You go TDC#1 and then TDC#4 to set the valves. So get your marker lined up on the crank pulley at "0" then rotate the pulley clockwise again till you get to "0" again on the crank pulley.

 

One rotation at "0" is TDC#1 and the other rotation at 360* is TDC#4

 

 

There's a diagram I use in a Haynes manual as to the sequence.

 

Laymans way feel the rockers with no tension on them @ the respective TDC cycle. Those ones with out tension on them are the ones you set.

 

Obviously remember the intakes are on 1 side and the exhaust on another when you set the clearance. ;)

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You go TDC#1 and then TDC#4 to set the valves.

Okay I'll remeber that for next time I have to set my valve lash.

 

For the meantime so I can feel safe about my recent valve lash adjustings, when your at TDC and adjusting the rocker arm does the cam lobe face directly opposite of the rocker arm??

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You go TDC#1 and then TDC#4 to set the valves.

Okay I'll remeber that for next time I have to set my valve lash.

 

For the meantime so I can feel safe about my recent valve lash adjustings, when your at TDC and adjusting the rocker arm does the cam lobe face directly opposite of the rocker arm??

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As long as you have free play to adjust the lash setting yuo should be alright. I just used common sense and made sure the valves I adjusted had no tension on them at all. My "tapping" quieted right down after I was through. Now I just want to get rid of the mech. altogether and go full hydra/roller....
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My method I use the cam gear to give me an idea where I am .. Remember 1 cam gear rotation = 2 crank rotations. SO ..

Start at TDC #1 (cam pin should be at 12'oclock) do tdc 1 lash and rotate gear 1/4 turn clockwise. that should be tdc 3 then etc [Firing order 1342]

 

To rotate the engine (u can do it by hand on the crank pulley if you absolutely have to) use a 22mm socket on the crank bolt. Remove the spark plugs first and its easier. Having 'no tools' really isnt a good excuse if you dont have it go buy it you will need it later, and its like 4-5 bucks for a socket. I prefer 1/2 inch for this and a 1/2 inch rachet fits nice in there.

 

:roll: better invest in some tools save u some money in the long run.

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Here's a little trick for rotating the crankshaft with out any tools or grabbing the crankshaft pulley, if you don't already know this.

 

Level ground helps out here by the way; put the car in 1st gear. Release emergency brake (if applied), Rock the car backwards or forwards to achieve the desired crankshaft rotation direction. This method allows you to look right at the crankshaft pulley and align the timing mark right where you need it while you are rotating the crankshaft. Once again, no tools required for this method. 8)

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Hmm, batmanntexas..

 

1: Never rotate the engine backwards. Not the normal rotation of the motor (and other reasons why it shouldnt be done..) (im sure someone will say 'i did it and nothing happened'.. :roll: )

 

2: Cant set the lash without tools. U have to pull the OVC pipe off (screwdriver) valve cover (12mm wrench/socket) and set the lash on the rocker (12mm wrench and screwdriver) so right there we have established at least 1 screwdriver and 1 12mm wrench. All you need in addition to that is a 23mm socket and ratchet to turn it. Now if your driving a car that uses 93 octane and with the price of gas I would think you (not you but the hypothetical anybody) can afford 10 bucks worth of tools not to mention a feeler gauge.

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Hmm, batmanntexas..

 

1: Never rotate the engine backwards. Not the normal rotation of the motor (and other reasons why it shouldnt be done..) (im sure someone will say 'i did it and nothing happened'.. :roll: )

 

 

The only time I did rotate the engine CCW was to degree the cam.

 

That was necessary for me to do.

 

Otherwise absolutely do not rotate the motor CCW. You can sooooooo easily bind up the chain and jump it a tooth, or hell even more!

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I know that tools are required to set the valve lash. The method I described was for rotating the engine ONLY without the need for hand tools. As for turning the engine backwards, you should only be "nudging" it backwards to align the timimng mark, not trying to rotate the motor 360, 720, etc. in the reverse direction. Granted when I posted this, I was thinking about a small block V8, something that usually doesn't have a chain guide, tensioner, etc. I will concede that rotating the 2.6L backwards any sserious amount could do some damage, alright. Call me stubborn, but I still don't see any harm in just "nudging" it backwards, if you need to align the timimg mark. Just my $.02.
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