87quest_stv Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 (edited) i posted this up at another forum. Though it would be helpful here too. Ok well I went out and pulled the charging harness off the car. pulled it apart. saw that the main 8gauge wires were old and brittle. Went to home depot got some 8 ga stranded wire, from them and some terminals. 4awg terminal and some 8gaw terminals. Cut new lengths identical to old. I also cleaned all the terminals going to the battery and the fuse links in link box 1 and 2 along with all the connectors under the relay box. I think PQ charges $100 bucks for a new charging harness I spent around 40 in cable and parts and a crimping tool. I'm happy with the finished product. I also would have taken more pictures in the assembly of the new harness but didn't think about it afterwards. Most of the these pics are replicated of what I did with leftover wire. Prior to doing this maintenance, I was getting 13.6 13.7 charging from my alternator to my battery. I really thought the alternator was failing. After I completed this, I now get 14.2 - 14.3 charging these are the ends where the 1 wire from the alt turns into 2 wires I'm replicatinghttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8ga.JPG This is the 4awg terminals i bought to use for the crimp. I had to get this size cause it has a 1/4 wire hole to crimp.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/4awgterm.JPG Here's the 8awg terminals I used for the alt end of the new harnesshttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8awgterm.JPG here I cut off the ring of the 4awg terminal so I could just use the crimp sidehttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/modterm.JPG Here the wires are inserted into the crimp ring and ready to crimphttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8ga2.JPG crimper tool I usedhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/crimp.JPG This wire and crimp are thick no way i was strong enough to crimp them all together with my hands properlyhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/crimp2.JPG nice and crimped. You might be wondering why no solder. Well the factory didn't use it. I figured I shouldn't either.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8gacrimp.JPG Then used some self alamanating tape(non sticky) for just this crimp end. You don't want to use regualr sticky electrical tape or this type of tape to wrap the whole harness. Neither these 2 types of tape really allow the harness to breath. When I say breath. I mean dissipate heat that it builds up as it gets load on it. Heat=resistance.The factory didn't use this type of tape for a reason. this is a splicing tape. it is highly thermo resistant and provides major insulation. Thus perfect for a crimp connection.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/snonstick.JPG only covered the crimp area because this tape doesn't breath. See explaination abovehttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8ga3.JPG Now to the alt end to use the 8awg terminalshttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8term.JPG Don't forget to put the shrink wrap BEFORE you crimp and tinhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/shrink.JPG Here is the atl connection end nice and neathttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/8termcomplete.JPG I then rewrapped the bleadoff off harness to the new alternator 8ga harness back to factory spec using stretch and seal silicone tapeYou can also see the double punch wire I made and attached to the outside of the new harness. Purpose for the punch wire. The main alt wire from the alternatorturns into a split the wire with the ring eye that hooks to the battery through the 16ga fusible link surface charges the batter. While the other wire goes into the largeconenctor that powers the IGN and ACC through the sub fusible link box 1. If your system wires are old and corroded. like most are. the harness will short amp delivery from the IGN/ACC connector to keep the battery charged. So by installing the punch wire directly from the junction box to the alternator you, Get the right charge to your battery withoutlosing amps to the IGN/ACChttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/harness2a.JPG stretch and seal tape. (this tape breathes and is non adhesive. sticks to itself) Now this is like what the factory used to wrap their harnesses. (the grey tape)It's non sticky and it's not very thick. resistant to heat and allows the harness to breath while wrapped. This is what you use to wrap the harness back up like thefactory wrapping.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/sealltape.JPG I used the 8ga terminal to put on the alt end of my new harness, then used a piece of shrink wrap on the end only. You can also see my double punch wire I attached to the main harness as what I believe is the way PQ described. Even though there weren't any pics to go by.http://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/altend.JPG This connector I removed the terminal from the connector and carefylly removed the crimp from the old 8ga wire then reattached it to the new 8ga wire and reinserted into the connectorhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/chargend.JPG on the junction side of the new harness I slightly modified the hole to accommodate the punch wire, then wrapped a couple pieces of alamanating tape to keep it closed since Mine was broken and wouldn't latch anyhowhttp://www.getyasumminimotos.com/Conquest/junction.JPG Edited February 6, 2012 by 87quest_stv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goddard Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Great write-up! Could you please explain the different usage of self alamanating tape, stretch & seal and regular electrical tape and why you should use one over the other. You also mentioned breathe-ability and I was wondering what that is all about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87quest_stv Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Updated. i only wished I would have taken more pictures while I was assembling the harness. Just got so involved, taking pictures completely left mind. If someone wants to send me a harness to rebuild for them I'll take some more pics during the entire process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Great work Bro!! Perhaps this could be in FAQ'S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prototype78 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Awesome job....u should make more n sell them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Great job...nice write-up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 if your following PQ's write up, then shouldn't you be using two fusible links from junction block to the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prototype78 Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 What size of wire would u guys recommend for the cs130 Alternator???....same 8gw??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 What size of wire would u guys recommend for the cs130 Alternator???....same 8gw???I'm thinking of running one 6ga from alternator to fusible link myself with dual fusible links, anyone out there think it's a no-no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prototype78 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Ill go tomorrow to home depot and see if i can do these wires lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 dual fuse links or an 80 amp new style fuse holder , eather way you have to increase the fuse link current carrying ability Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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