Jump to content



Wiring Harness Replacement?

Electrical Repair Replace

  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 AtlanticBlue87

AtlanticBlue87

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Newnan, Georgia
  • Interests:Cars, Computers, Whiskey, Coffee, Not having money.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 20 November 2019 - 11:06 AM

Hi everyone! I did check the search function but I didn't see any posts regarding this question, sorry if I missed something! I am in the process of figuring out what I want to do with my new money pit and I am strongly considering starting off with getting a G54 build running. Unfortunately, my car has taken water damage and as such I believe the stock wiring harness and electrical to be toast. I am considering picking up a parts car and attempting to take the wiring harness/engine electrics from it for use on my car. Has anyone experienced swapping the engine bay wiring harness? If so, how difficult is it to pull off? I already know I am in for removing the current engine so that's no issue, I plan to try and replace the electrical with the engine out of the car at first anyway! Thank you all for your help!
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - G54B Restoration in Progress!
DD: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible





#2 speedyquest

speedyquest

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:La Crosse Wisconsin
  • Interests:bmx, cars, computers
  • Model:Starion

Posted 20 November 2019 - 11:10 AM

Welcome to the sickness dude lol. As for swapping the wiring over its not difficult IF you make sure you get your donor wiring harness from a car that is the same year and has the same transmission as your car. Once you have that you will probably need to remove the dash and the fenders but its very doable.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


Posted Image


Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#3 AtlanticBlue87

AtlanticBlue87

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Newnan, Georgia
  • Interests:Cars, Computers, Whiskey, Coffee, Not having money.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 20 November 2019 - 11:24 AM

Thanks for your reply! The donor car I was looking it is an automatic, and I have a manual. Is it possible to bridge a neutral safety switch on the auto harness? I'm not super familiar with that sort of system, I apologize if it's a dumb question :D
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - G54B Restoration in Progress!
DD: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible

#4 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 5,031 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 20 November 2019 - 11:43 AM

What year is the donor car?  Which harness are you wanting to replace?  The engine control harness or the main harness that controls the lights, etc?   If it is the engine harness, than manual vs automatic is not an issue, only the year is.  The main harness runs up into the engine bay on the drivers side whereas the engine harness runs up the passenger side and crosses over the core support.  

But you'd most likely want to stick with an 87 engine harness for your atlantic blue.   There are two primary differences; 1. the knock box and boost solenoid...easily solved by swapping over to an 88/89 knockbox. 2. the coolant temperature switch.  The 88/89 have a two pole switch on the intake.  One pole controls the coolant temp gauge in the dash and the other the heater core t-stat.  On 87 and earlier, there is only a one pole switch on the intake for the gauge in the dash.  The heater core t-stat is at the heater core and the main harness has a wire to it.  Although it can still be made to work.

The auto/manual connectors are on the main harness.  

You can make any of the harnesses work with a bit of studying the 87 vs 88/89 FSMs and modifying the harnesses accordingly.  Before you go too far, how do the connectors actually look?  Corrosion on the terminals?

#5 AtlanticBlue87

AtlanticBlue87

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Newnan, Georgia
  • Interests:Cars, Computers, Whiskey, Coffee, Not having money.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 20 November 2019 - 12:48 PM

View Postkev, on 20 November 2019 - 11:43 AM, said:

What year is the donor car?  Which harness are you wanting to replace?  The engine control harness or the main harness that controls the lights, etc?   If it is the engine harness, than manual vs automatic is not an issue, only the year is.  The main harness runs up into the engine bay on the drivers side whereas the engine harness runs up the passenger side and crosses over the core support.  

But you'd most likely want to stick with an 87 engine harness for your atlantic blue.   There are two primary differences; 1. the knock box and boost solenoid...easily solved by swapping over to an 88/89 knockbox. 2. the coolant temperature switch.  The 88/89 have a two pole switch on the intake.  One pole controls the coolant temp gauge in the dash and the other the heater core t-stat.  On 87 and earlier, there is only a one pole switch on the intake for the gauge in the dash.  The heater core t-stat is at the heater core and the main harness has a wire to it.  Although it can still be made to work.

The auto/manual connectors are on the main harness.  

You can make any of the harnesses work with a bit of studying the 87 vs 88/89 FSMs and modifying the harnesses accordingly.  Before you go too far, how do the connectors actually look?  Corrosion on the terminals?

Almost everything on the engine has bent pins and or cracked plastic. When I found the car the wire leading to the O2 sensor after the turbo had already broken, and through disassembly, I have found many brittle wires that have broken when moved. I think given the state of the plastic parts and the few wires that didn't make it so far, It'd be easier to grab a harness from a car that hasn't taken on water.

As for the donor car, it is an 87 flatty automatic. I haven't bought it yet but I am considering it if the engine turns and it has usable electrical parts for me. I'm guessing from your reply that the main harness will not work for my car?

What are the differences with the knock boxes between the years?

Thanks for your time and the help!
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - G54B Restoration in Progress!
DD: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible

#6 markhansenconquest

markhansenconquest

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,548 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:temecula,ca
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 21 November 2019 - 02:58 PM

Take pictures of everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   make your life easer  ..........
look on face book for ernist ramos he is parting a 88 auto W/B in L/A right now...........................he has a wire harness.................

Edited by markhansenconquest, 21 November 2019 - 03:04 PM.


#7 TexasQuest

TexasQuest

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 9,018 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunnyvale, Texas
  • Interests:TSi's & VR4's
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 21 November 2019 - 07:00 PM

You'll want to swap over to an 88/89 knock-igniter box anyway. They are less prone to failure like the earlier 83-87 plastic ones.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
Posted Image

View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#8 scott87star

scott87star

    Technically Challenged, Daily.

  • Vendors
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 5,025 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mandan, NORTH DAKOTA
  • Interests:Freezing, thawing, thunderstorms and constant wind.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 22 November 2019 - 07:46 AM

30 year old wiring is 30 year old wiring, I personally would not expect one could extricate it from one car and get it into another without internally breaking a few wires.  Maybe 10 years ago.  I have completely rebuilt the OEM engine harness in an 87 but you have to splice in the old connectors which presents its own problems.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

Performance Coatings!  Pistons, manifolds, bearings and more!

Now a graduate of EFI University!  www.efi101.com

ECU Vendor link:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=137426

#9 AtlanticBlue87

AtlanticBlue87

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Newnan, Georgia
  • Interests:Cars, Computers, Whiskey, Coffee, Not having money.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 22 November 2019 - 10:39 AM

Yeah the old wiring is not in the best of shape for sure! I'm considering going ahead and using a megasquirt since I'm going to the length to remove a lot of this older wiring. I know there are countless topics regarding megasquirt conversions on this forum, but where are the best spots to pick up one these days? It seems like a lot of people have jacked up the prices for kits recently.
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - G54B Restoration in Progress!
DD: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible

#10 speedyquest

speedyquest

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:La Crosse Wisconsin
  • Interests:bmx, cars, computers
  • Model:Starion

Posted 22 November 2019 - 10:50 AM

View PostAtlanticBlue87, on 22 November 2019 - 10:39 AM, said:

Yeah the old wiring is not in the best of shape for sure! I'm considering going ahead and using a megasquirt since I'm going to the length to remove a lot of this older wiring. I know there are countless topics regarding megasquirt conversions on this forum, but where are the best spots to pick up one these days? It seems like a lot of people have jacked up the prices for kits recently.

I'd highly recommend scott87star from the forum here. He is an electrical engineer from my understanding, he is a official dealer for all the Megasquirt stuff, and he can help you best decide what you need for your application. On top of that he actually does plug and play setups with replacement harnesses etc.

I went through him for all my stuff and would HIGHLY recommend him. Super nice guy.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


Posted Image


Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#11 scott87star

scott87star

    Technically Challenged, Daily.

  • Vendors
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 5,025 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mandan, NORTH DAKOTA
  • Interests:Freezing, thawing, thunderstorms and constant wind.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 22 November 2019 - 12:16 PM

Thanks Speedy!  I recall at Nikofab's Houston meet we were working on Tim's (Averse on here) car which was experiencing electrical woes.  It was frying the ECI fuse link which caused him to break down on the North side of Houston, we sent out a recovery party and dragged it back to the meet site in League City and began to troubleshoot.  It ended up being a dead short somewhere in the harness between the ECI relay and the harness exit point in the engine bay.  Nightmare.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

Performance Coatings!  Pistons, manifolds, bearings and more!

Now a graduate of EFI University!  www.efi101.com

ECU Vendor link:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=137426





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users