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Brake Fluid Leak


cachaco736
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Hi everyone, thnx for stopping bye n' reading post

 

I recently been having brake problems with my quest so I started checking around to see what the problem might be. I would fill up the brake fluid canister and in 1/2 hour it would be low on fluid. I just found the leak. It leaks right were the brake master cylinder connects to the brake power booster.

 

Is there a gasket/ "o-ring" or something that needs to be changed? or the hole brake master cylinder or power booster?\

 

Brake system worked fine before this leak started... dunno.

 

Heeeelllpppp!!!

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I just went thru that a little while ago, as a matter of fact it ate a lot of paint in that whole area. This happens to alot of the guys, your better off just getting a new M/C that will solve the issue. make sure to get a that brake fluid cleaned up off your paint the best you can
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Get a rebuild kit or a new master asap that leak is fluid bypassing the seals and the pedal will just drop to the floor and you will have no brakes. You can rebuild it if the cylinder isn't pitted otherwise you have to replace it.
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Get a rebuild kit or a new master asap that leak is fluid bypassing the seals and the pedal will just drop to the floor and you will have no brakes. You can rebuild it if the cylinder isn't pitted otherwise you have to replace it.

Thanx guys!, I was just reading about the MC Seals.. damn.. cheapest MC ive seen is $120 lol.

 

Indiana: Where can i purchase a repair kit?

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This seems to be a common leak point with these cars. You will need to pull the master cylinder and either rebuild it or, depending on its condition inside, replace it. There is a breakdown of it in the service manual if you want to rebuild it. You may also have to pull the booster and drain out the fluid (the booster in my toyota filled up with fluid when the M/C let go. You have to expect these issues with a 20+ year old vehicle...seals let go...brake fluid itself is corrosive and breaks down over time..it eats seals, paint, and being hygroscopic, attracts moisture...and it rarely ever gets changed...
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You need to shop some more they aren't that expensive. Go to Rockauto.com they have two less than 40.00 one without a core its an Autospecialty(higher priced usually than most) closeout and as I remember those have the plastic caps for the hoses to attach to already installed but they have no picture so be sure. The Beckarnley one has them its a few more dollars. If you ordered it today you should get it tuesday I'd say they ship really quick.
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You need to shop some more they aren't that expensive. Go to Rockauto.com they have two less than 40.00 one without a core its an Autospecialty(higher priced usually than most) closeout and as I remember those have the plastic caps for the hoses to attach to already installed but they have no picture so be sure. The Beckarnley one has them its a few more dollars. If you ordered it today you should get it tuesday I'd say they ship really quick.

 

Wow!! thank you bunches!, ill look into that!

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There might not be instructions in the package but you have to bench bleed new master brake/clutch cylinders. It just involves you pouring in brake fluid and pushing down the plunger and while its down, hold your fingers over the holes where the brake lines go so that when you release the plunger it sucks fluid into the cylinder chambers not air from where the line would go otherwise you'll bang your head for an hour wondering why you can't pump up any fluid. Sometimes they come with two little hoses and plastic fittings so this isn't so messy it just dumps the fluid back into the plastic tank instead of on the floor or all over you.
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Also get and keep the leaking brake fluid off of the steering shaft coupler. If you do not you will have about 5-6 inches in steering wheel slop shortly. The brake fluid eats up the internals of the coupler causing the slop.

 

New couplers are no longer available.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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Bench bleeding the master before putting it back in the car will help.

 

I got some speed type bleeder screws and bleed the brakes myself. I still need to bleed the rear anti lock unit. If you go that route get the 35mm screws. Also you can bleed the clutch with those too, if you have a manual.

Edited by RF600
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When the rear brakes stop working and are ignored that dirty fluid lays in the lines for years and there's like 15' of tubing with fluid in them doing nothing from the master to the modulator back to the master side then to the rear of the car then split side to side, it will take you some time to flush those lines. If you were one of the good guys you'd have flushed the lines every year but who does that. The proportioning valve can stick and be clogged too. Most people remove the rear ABS and the valve on non rear ABS is different but nobody is changing them out.
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