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D2 Coilovers and camber plates 2019


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#21 TexasQuest

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Posted 03 August 2019 - 01:42 PM

 Mech, on 02 August 2019 - 12:10 PM, said:

I am going to find some front spindles so i can have the fronts ready to assemble on the car.  I was thinking of putting new front wheel bearings while I am at it, even if they don't need replacing. Has anyone done this on their D2 install?  and where have been people been buying the bearings?
That is a perfect time to replace your wheel bearings and seals. I did the same thing when installing my KSport's.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

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#22 jonboyb

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Posted 07 August 2019 - 09:54 AM

 MotoCam360, on 21 April 2019 - 10:03 PM, said:

I have several sets of D2s and they are great and high quality, but I do not prefer to daily drive my car with D2.  Maybe that's the road quality around my place, or maybe I'm old.... I don't know but the ride can be stiff and a little bouncy, but the car does handle like a go-cart which is awesome.



Maybe I'm getting old too but I agree completely :lol:   My D2's I find a little bouncy especially on the softer settings.  I actually prefer the higher settings now just to get away from the bounce.  Spent alot of time adjusting pre-load but could never get it to go away unless I bumped up the dampening.  I just got a set of Legion's for my other car.....hoping they're a tad more street oriented.
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#23 Mech

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 11:51 PM

Got my D2's today.The spindle/strut tube is not painted/powder coated at all. From all the pics I have seen, they are always painted black. Did they just forget to do it? or maybe its for a reason, possibly because they know people will be welding on them, or the extra thickness of the paint was causing the tube to not fit over the spindle strut tube?Anyways I am going to contact D2 about it tommorow.Also, check out the instructions...engrish please :lol:

Edit: Missed the 1st bottom section:"please painted the hub and our tube to void the rusty" :lol: :lol: :lol:

Well, that answered my question.

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Edited by Mech, 13 August 2019 - 12:14 AM.


#24 Preludedude

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 09:03 AM

Wow, those instructions are pathetic... :huh:

#25 PSiTSi

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 01:33 PM

Mine were not painted either. I rubbed them down with a degreaser after being welded and painted everything black.
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#26 Mech

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Posted 15 August 2019 - 10:49 PM

Does anyone know if there are any differences for the front strut/spindles assemblies between 86-89?  I have an 88, if i find some spindles from another year, i just want to make sure they work.

Also what is the best descriptive name most commonly used? I feel like I'm not using the right words here....Strut housing, spindles, shock housing, wheel bearing assembly etc...

#27 speedyquest

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 08:08 AM

The only differences in the spindles that I know are that narrowbody cars had a different spindle angle than the widebody cars. That is due to the difference in front lower control arm lengths.

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#28 TexasQuest

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Posted 17 August 2019 - 03:21 PM

View PostMech, on 12 August 2019 - 11:51 PM, said:

Got my D2's today.The spindle/strut tube is not painted/powder coated at all. From all the pics I have seen, they are always painted black. Did they just forget to do it? or maybe its for a reason, possibly because they know people will be welding on them, or the extra thickness of the paint was causing the tube to not fit over the spindle strut tube?Anyways I am going to contact D2 about it tommorow.Also, check out the instructions...engrish please :lol:

Edit: Missed the 1st bottom section:"please painted the hub and our tube to void the rusty" :lol: :lol: :lol:

Well, that answered my question.
My KSport's literally had the same pathetic instructions lol
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
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#29 TexasQuest

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Posted 17 August 2019 - 03:22 PM

View PostMech, on 15 August 2019 - 10:49 PM, said:

Does anyone know if there are any differences for the front strut/spindles assemblies between 86-89?  I have an 88, if i find some spindles from another year, i just want to make sure they work.

Also what is the best descriptive name most commonly used? I feel like I'm not using the right words here....Strut housing, spindles, shock housing, wheel bearing assembly etc...
86-89 WIDEbody are the ones you need.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
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#30 Mech

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Posted 07 September 2019 - 09:03 PM

How much of the original spindle casting tube are you guys leaving when you cut them?

The thread by fuze says 2-3 inches. I've also read people only leaving 1 inch.

3 seems like too much, but 1 not enough. So I'm strongly considering 2 inches.

I was thinking there may be potential problem if you leave too much of the original spindle tube, as D2 shock itself would bottom out on it. but it looks like you would have to get the car adjusted reallllllllly low for that to be problem?  From reading threads, it looks like people have about 4 inches from the top of the D2 tube to the bottom of the spring.  I set mine like that, measured inside the tube (since its not welded yet of course) and there was 4 inches between the bottom of the shock and the bottom of the D2 tube.

So long story short, if i left 3 inches of the original tube, when adjusted like everyone else, there would only be 1 inch between the top of the original tube casting, and the bottom of the D2 shock. Which seems like its too close.

This picture is from a thread. I don't know how low his car is though...

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#31 Mech

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Posted 07 September 2019 - 09:23 PM

Some pictures to illustrate what i am talking about...


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#32 TexasQuest

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Posted 07 September 2019 - 10:57 PM

I left about 2 inches when I cut mine. And no they don't come pre-painted because you have to weld them. After they're welded you can paint them, most people use black chassis paint.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
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#33 PSiTSi

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Posted 10 September 2019 - 08:59 PM

I left about 2.5-3 inches. I also had the place that welded them up for me drill two holes into the tube opposite of each other and welded to the spindle casting.
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#34 TexasQuest

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 01:42 PM

That's a good idea. I had holes drilled and welded to mine as well.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#35 Mech

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Posted 13 September 2019 - 08:17 PM

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So ive finally got everything welded up, and the spindles are now in process of being powdercoated.

I left 2 inches of tube on the spindles. I then used a scotch brite disc to clean the tube. This left the tube nicely rounded vs using a flap disc which would have left a lot of indentations. I also lightly sanded the inside of the D2 tube. I then used a propane torch to heat the D2 tube, leaving the spindle cold. Surprisingly when heated, the D2 tube slipped over the spindle tube fairly easily, with only a light tapping needed with a rubber mallet. The second time I sanded everything a little less, and the press fit was even better. Probably when it cooled, you would not be able to separate the two. This press fit should help with strength and rigidity. I also created three button welds on each tube, at roughly 6, 3 and 9 o clock positions.  The welds themselves came out decent. If i had to do it again, i would have created a platform that i could rotate the spindle so that it was one continual weld, rather than stopping and starting like I did. Still, I think the welds I have done are pretty strong.

Edited by Mech, 26 September 2019 - 04:52 PM.


#36 Mech

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Posted 26 September 2019 - 04:50 PM

Just got the spindles back from powder coat today. Decided to get the bearing hubs done as well. Super happy with the results. The shop did such a good job. Look how they taped off the bottom of the spindles so that when the ball joint housing is bolted to it , it will seal off the coating...otherwise it would have a hard edge and potentially flake off,  if it had not wrapped around like that.
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#37 TexasQuest

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Posted 26 September 2019 - 06:28 PM

Nice B)
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#38 Mech

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Posted 30 October 2019 - 11:23 AM

Got them installed a few days ago. Decided on holding off on installing the Mookeh rear camber plates because it looked like the top plates on the rears had quite of bit camber built in already.

Took it around the block, seems to drive fine.

It was recommended that I have an alignment done. Did anyone have their car aligned after the install? I didn't move the adjustment on the tie rods. So I'm thinking the only thing to adjust is camber on the front, but that is not a factory adjustment right?  So the question is where can i bring it in the Bay Area? seems like it would have to be a speed/performance shop.....not just your average place.

#39 mbruneaux

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Posted 31 October 2019 - 09:11 PM

An alignment is important.  I think in the front all they can do is adjust toe unless you have camber plates.  The rear I think are more adjustable.
An alignemnt can make a huge difference in the feel of the car.
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#40 Mech

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Posted 31 October 2019 - 11:43 PM

The D2 coilovers have camber plates in the front.




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