Tik

Well they got back to me and said the Ignition control module was bad. they wanted $1000 for a rebuilt one from somewhere. I laughed and told them id be picking the car up. I happen to have a Spare ECU sitting around for it so we will see. otherwise ill start looking at the fuseable links. BTW i know on my car that fuseable link box is in pretty bad shape its been melted a bit from befor i owned the car. Is there any easy way to replace that little block with something else or am i stuck trying to find a replacement off a donor car?

ok my 88 starion got towed to the shop on monday. Lately it has just decided to shut off whenever it feels like. It would always fir back up after 2-10 min but never could tell. on monday it died on me and after 45 min of messing around with it i called int he flat bed. Anyway while its dead the shop guys tell me the coil has power but looses ground and the injector pulse goes away. so they said they are gonna have to chase wires and find the problem. Im posting this to see if anyone has any idea where to look or had a similar problem and what it ended up being to see if i can point these guys in the right direction. oh and from time to time while driving it the Tach in the car would double its rpm reading. Ex i was driving down the freeway at 65 turning about 2500rpm then the needle would start to bounce a bit then jump up and hang at 5000rpm even tho the engine never changed speed. then after a bit it would bounce again then go back to the right spot. Not sure if this info helps but it has to be related up until a week ago none of this ever happened and nothing has been changed recently Thanks in advance for any advice.

well without hearing it myself i cant be sure of anything but from what you have described im almost positive. you can always have a buddy drive it in the air and you get under it with a scope and stick it in the area of the bearing then on the dif. and see where the noise is the loudest. keep in mind a bearing may not make as much of any noise when its unloaded. that will tell you for sure its the bearing if it goes away all together. the rearend should be consistant either way

as far as how long you have to drive on it. who knows ive seen them last along time that way and ive seen them grenade very fast know way of knowing. But worse case scenario is it goes all at once and the hub and wheel assembly tries to come off the car. normaly it wont because the caliper surrounding the rotor wont let it but if it gets that point your looking at replacing alot more then a bearing

I havent done one on the starion yet but normaly the hub and bearing are 2 different pieces that press together. so if you have no play in the bearing then chances are the hub is good and can be reused when you replace the bearing but there is no was to know for sure till its all apart and you can see there the bearing races ride if its worn. But im not positive on the starion how the setup is. Most cases you remove the entire knuckle fromt he car press out the hub then remove any snap rings that retain the bearing and press the bearing out. then press the new bearing in reinstall span rings then press the old hub back into the bearing and reinstall the assembly.

yup sounds like a wheel bearing. normaly a rear end will make a constant noise and a hub bearing will change pitch as the load changes on the bearing. jack the tires off the ground and grab it top and bottom and shake it should be 0 play. but a bearing can be going bad and still show no play so if you cant figure out by play drive it in the air and see if you can hear what side its from

If installing them raised the back of your car 1 1/2" then they are not right. camber kits should only relocate the stock mounting to raise or lower camber. they should maintain the same overall height of the strut assembly. Id take em out. I do alignments for a living and a bit of negative camber isnt a big deal and can be compensated for by increasing toe in. do you know what the spec was on the camber?

5 on 4.5 is the bolt pattern for the 5 lug super common

Yes fuel pump has been upgraded, pigtails no i havent replaced them. it used to boost 20psi np problem just came on all of a sudden but it was awhile ago. didnt mess with it cause i daily drive it and wasnt a huge issue other then the honda kids thiking they have a fast car but dont need full throttle to put them in there place anyway . This is what I was thinking of buying http://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=184. unless there is a better option for the stock setup

Unless they have brackets on them specific to a side struts can generaly go either way. so if you cant tell by looking at them that one has a bracket on the left and the other on the right side then your good.

I have an 88 Starion my current problem is whenever i mash the pedal WoT boost builds to about 13-15 psi then the car fall flat on its face. doesnt buck or miss it just kinda looses power like its either not igniting or the fuel mix is bad. if i half throttle and build up slower it goes fine. little engine info. .040 block, marnel head, roller rockers and cam, 20g turbo, 1g mass, stock fuel injectors(i think this may be the problem), 3" exhaust, hard pipe kit, lots more but for this issue that should be enough info. Like I said im about ready to drop new injectors in it and pray thats the problem but Id like to hear any suggestions befor I do.

Ive had this happen and its was a coupler that wasnt tight enough on my hard pipes anyway you can go to the hardware store and buy a rubber cap that fits your turbo intake. remove your intake pipe to your turbo and cap it tight. then get youll need an air compressor and blow some air into the over the valve cover pipe to put pressure into the system and then listen for a leak. you can only do 7-10 psi befor the cap blows off the turbo so if it starts to buck after that psi id just recheck all the pipes you had off. The bucking on mine was from a sudden loss of pressure after it built up past 10psi below that it was fine once i found the leak all was well