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Professor
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Posts
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About Professor
- Birthday February 1
Profile Information
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Interests
Conquests, Starions, Mustangs, Cobras, Fishing
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Location
LaCenter, Wash.
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Gender
Male
Previous Fields
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Zip Code
98629
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Model
Other
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Type
Other
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Model Year
Other
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Interior Color
Black
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Status
On the road
Professor's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
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Does an 86 Conquest have a passing relay?????
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Sorry, I forgot to say this is a 86 Conquest. The above post described my trip home which developed a second problem which I fixed by changing the pressure solenoid. It fixed the cutting out, missing and popping under 70 mph. However, after changing the pop=up relay,s cleaning the thermo fuses, checking all the little fuses and cleaning the grounds, I still have the problem. I checked my 89 to see what a passing relay looks like and I don't find anything that looks like it on the 86. I only have an 87 and 88 manual so I don't know if it has a passing relay somewhere. I think I will change the pop=up relays again,as maybe the ones I installed have the same problem. I didn't find any grnds. close to the headlights but there must be some there. Did they use the gnds, for the parking/running lights?
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OK, here is what I have done so far. I replaced the 2 pop-up relays. I have cleaned the thermal fuses. The head lights work now but it has cooled off. They work when it is cold but by the time I get to work , they are warm and quit. I don't know if it is fixed or not until I drive it . When I started to drive home, it decided it wouldn't run slow. 70 mph+ was fine. I made it to the shop and cleaned a bunch of connections and then disconnected the solenoid that ties into the pressure sensor and it sounds great. Idle smoothed out and revs up nice. This may be the sensor Tim said to disconnect, although he called it a "flash to pass" solenoid. I probably disconnected the wrong one but it sounds great. Is it going to do anything bad to run it with this solenoid disconnected. I see on the schematic it ties into the ECU. Is this pressure sensor for the boost gauge in the dash? If it is, I really don't need it as long as the signal isn't necessary for the ECU.
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I should be able to make it home before dark. I keep the car in the shop so it hasn't been just sitting in the rain except when I drive it. Thanks for the suggestions, I will let you'all know what the solution is when I fix it. It actually looks pretty cool winking at you. I Don't think the cops would like it though. It was nice to analyze the manual so I could see the circuit.
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I have a situation with the headlights. When I turn on the headlights they constantly open and close. They seem to have timing changes. Most of the time 1 will close and the other will open. Sometimes they both open at once and close at once but never stop opening and closing. When I shut them off, they will stop where ever. Partly open or partly closed. I'm at work now so I haven't got my manual here. I do have to drive 43 miles to get home though so it would be nice to fix them before I have to leave. Any suggestions would be helpful. If I knew which relay it was, I could switch it with something else. Any help is appreciated.
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*NEW* AEM UEGO WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER 30-4100
Professor replied to 101PROPOSE's topic in Group Purchase Info
I checked Pay Pal and they show $51.50 was sent on Oct. 14th and it is unclaimed. The Unique Transaction ID #0B4337940N822343W is shown as the identification for this transaction. I tried to send this info to you last week but that wouldn't work either. Should I just cancel this and send you the total amount? -
*NEW* AEM UEGO WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER 30-4100
Professor replied to 101PROPOSE's topic in Group Purchase Info
I sent the deposit last Wed. the 14th yet my name is not on the list. This post is to end tomorrow and I'm getting worried. Did you get the Pay Pal? Thanks, Professor -
My name isn't on the list. How many are there yet to get 10? Put me on the list please! Thanks, Dean
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Put me down for a Ram Style. This is a great deal!
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*NEW* AEM UEGO WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER 30-4100
Professor replied to 101PROPOSE's topic in Group Purchase Info
I just sent the deposit. Finding a Starquest to put it on isn't a problem. I have 9 of which 5 are drivers. Thanks, Dean -
*NEW* AEM UEGO WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER 30-4100
Professor replied to 101PROPOSE's topic in Group Purchase Info
What else is needed to use this WB. I didn't see any information on what is included. -
Welding Jet Valve Hole Up
Professor replied to Starfighterpilot's topic in Advanced Virtual Mechanic
Perhaps you didn't understand what I tried to explain. I turned the plugs out of 6061-T6 aluminum. They are held in the same as the steel plug the jet valve screws into. I used a grade 8 bolt screwed in the same hole as the jet valve with lock tight. It is NOT comming out. The JVE kits are steel bolts screwed into the steel plugs or the steel jet valves screwed into the steel plugs which is possibly contributing to the cracks between the valves, because of the different expansion rates. I really don't care if anyone else tries this or not. I started my first post on this subject as "Food for Thought". I just wanted people to think about other options. I have the only two Conquests in the world with this mod and they work. -
Welding Jet Valve Hole Up
Professor replied to Starfighterpilot's topic in Advanced Virtual Mechanic
Just food for thought. I knocked out the steel plug in the head out that the jet valve screws into and duplicated it in aluminum, without the through hole. I then put the plugs in the jet valve holes from the combustion chamber side and put a bolt in from the top side. I just machined a groove in the bolt just below the head of the bolt and put an o-ring on. I then took the grinder and smoothed the plug off to match the combustion chamber. I do have pictures of it if anyone wants to see. I have 45K miles on the one head and no problems. The other head is on an engine I just rebuilt and only has 30 miles on it. . -
The splined hub is bolted to the pinion. When you pull the turque tube, it will be sticking out from the front of the pinion. Fastens to the pinion with 1 big nut.
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The clunk is coming from the splined coupler in the torque tube. The one on the pinion gear is usually the one that wears first. It mates with the torque tube spline that appears to be made of harder steel than the mating coupler on the differential. Pull the torque tube and check the splines on the differential. They should have nice flat topped teeth. When they get to clunking, they are pointed and wornout. The last one I got from Mitsu was $26.