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for all you EDIS freaks that need a Tach


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#21 Komeuppance

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 11:25 PM

If you cannot find the correct wire in the engine bay, you can run a wire directly to the back of the tach in the cluster.

-Robert

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#22 jisleyjr

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:15 AM

View PostKomeuppance, on 23 November 2009 - 11:25 PM, said:

If you cannot find the correct wire in the engine bay, you can run a wire directly to the back of the tach in the cluster.

-Robert
I'm in no mood to pull the cluster out. hehe

Looking at the service manual it looks like the tach wire was not in the engine wiring harness, which i have pulled out completely. Page 47 A-30.

I just need someone to be able to tell me if i have the right one pointed out in that picture. I am guessing i have one of the diodes backwards.
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#23 substock

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:52 AM

thats appears to be the correct wire.

make sure the diode bands match the direction the arrows are pointing in the picture
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#24 pure_insanity

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 12:59 PM

just out of curiosity,  has anyone tried using the pin #2 on the edis module ?  it says on the main page of the megamanual for edis, that some people can connect there to make a stock tach work.  i havent had the opportunity to try it yet but its not far away on my list.


also, those are digi key part #'s.  or are those part #s pretty universal. or do you have the values for them 15-18volt zener is simple enough. what about the other two diodes values?


nevermind about the  valuesand part #s.  a quick look at digi keys website told me what i was asking.

Edited by pure_insanity, 24 November 2009 - 01:13 PM.

some good mpi info that may help someone.
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#25 substock

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 02:33 PM

from what i've heard for our cars. the only way for the tach to see the signal from pin 2 on the edis module, is to run a sheilded wire directly to the back of the tach gauge.
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#26 jisleyjr

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:37 PM

That is the wire for the tach and it looks like i had broken my diodes when i soldered them, must have got them too hot. I had extra so i just crimped instead this time and the tach works now, wahoo! Just when i thought i was done working on my car the driver side window falls all the way down when i start to roll it down, ugh!
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#27 pure_insanity

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Posted 25 November 2009 - 03:09 AM

i went shopping for diodes today at the only store around that has electronic components and wouldnt you know they were out of what i needed. i got a half assed radio shack around but its not likely they got the 2 regular diodes.  i picked up the zener diode but still need the other 2.  anyone got a couple they feel like sending and ill drop you a couple dollars?
some good mpi info that may help someone.
mpi stuff


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#28 psu_Crash

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 09:29 AM

Just FYI I am using the stock tach with EDIS without the diode setup. I did have it setup as shown above but the tach wasn't working at low RPM. I have the white wire spliced directly into the PIP output of the EDIS module. Works like a charm.
It should probably have some kind of isolation in the line to the tach. At RPM over 4.5k I get some random false triggering that may be attributed this this.
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#29 87quest-TSI

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 07:19 PM

View Postpure_insanity, on 24 November 2009 - 12:59 PM, said:

just out of curiosity,  has anyone tried using the pin #2 on the edis module ?  it says on the main page of the megamanual for edis, that some people can connect there to make a stock tach work.  i havent had the opportunity to try it yet but its not far away on my list.


also, those are digi key part #'s.  or are those part #s pretty universal. or do you have the values for them 15-18volt zener is simple enough. what about the other two diodes values?


nevermind about the  valuesand part #s.  a quick look at digi keys website told me what i was asking.

Yes I have tried pin #2 and pin #11 for the tack. nether worked on the stock tack. Ford cars with a stock tack use pin #11 on the edis module.
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#30 87quest-TSI

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 07:22 PM

View Postpure_insanity, on 25 November 2009 - 03:09 AM, said:

i went shopping for diodes today at the only store around that has electronic components and wouldnt you know they were out of what i needed. i got a half assed radio shack around but its not likely they got the 2 regular diodes.  i picked up the zener diode but still need the other 2.  anyone got a couple they feel like sending and ill drop you a couple dollars?

Do you still need these? If so I beleave I got some. Your needing the 1N4004 right?
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#31 BOHO

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 08:46 AM

bump for sticky
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#32 pure_insanity

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 11:58 AM

View Post87quest-TSI, on 26 November 2009 - 07:22 PM, said:

Do you still need these? If so I beleave I got some. Your needing the 1N4004 right?


nah dave, i actually found them just a couple days ago.  i wandered into an oddball radio shack store and said wth, ill give them a try and sure enough they had them.  the ironic part was they even used digikey part numbers even tho the guy said he didnt think they ordered them from digikey. it was right there labeled in their bins with the 1n4004 part number.  i wish i had known you had them. never even crossed my mind you may have them. thanks for the offer, i appreciate it.
some good mpi info that may help someone.
mpi stuff


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#33 pure_insanity

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 07:06 PM

got the "gizmo" built and in the car, works great.  im pretty happy to see my tach working nowadays.  i cant believe how fast my car revs. i had never payed attn in ms.
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#34 BOHO

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 07:17 PM

Grant...I need the hookup..I got no tach...where you get the stuff from?
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#35 pure_insanity

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 09:22 PM

they are available from radio shack.  or at least i had one of the diodes from another place, but i got the 2 diodes from radio shack. part numbers are in the first couple post from IW. if you have trouble finding the zener diode, ive got an extra as i had to buy a 2 pack.  however its cheaper to buy the diode than for me to mail it to you.  i think they were like 1.04$ or something. hell an envelope and stamp cost more than this.
some good mpi info that may help someone.
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#36 bigmandsm

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:08 PM

bump for sticky great info
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#37 importwarrior

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 09:31 AM

B) Glad to see this helped you out!  B)

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#38 CaliConquestAlex

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Posted 01 September 2014 - 08:01 PM

Bringing this thread back up because it's relevant to the issue I was having and then solved. I did some wire tucking on the inside of the car for the megasquirt and when I reconnected the battery, my car started up, however, the stock tach which worked before was no longer working. My megasquirt was getting tach signal so I knew it had nothing to do with the coil or vr sensor. After a few hours of checking fuses and wire connections I remembered that this diode trio connection feeds the stock tach signal. Sure enough,  I unwrap the wires and the 18v zener diode was literally broken into pieces. I replaced the parts and all is well again. Thanks again for this write up.
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#39 importwarrior

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Posted 01 September 2014 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the update!
Glad to see you back up and working.

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#40 randy

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 05:58 PM

I think I have to do the same thing.




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