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Rgnbull88

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About Rgnbull88

  • Birthday 08/20/1974

Profile Information

  • Interests
    anything with wheels and a engine
  • Location
    Hampton VA
  • Gender
    Male

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  • ICQ
    0
  • Website URL
    http://

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    23666
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Kaiser Silver
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    Being Modded

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  1. I've seen a few rides on this site with a fiberglass cowl inducted hood. Does anyone know were I can get my hands on one?
  2. Reread the post, tried the test again. I used the voltmeter, hooked the pos leed to the pos terminal and used the neg leed to check the wires. On each wire(leading to the ISC) there was no change. If I am understanding correctly, the nose swt is just a ground point. So, if the nose swt is closed, ie at idle, there would be 12+volts going to ground as if I took the neg leed to any other ground point on the chassie. Or if I used the resistance setting I would get a closed indication (resistance), and if off idle an open. If I am doing this incorrectly please let me know. Maybe I'll just ride down to Autozone and pick up a test light.
  3. Gave it a try, and no luck. None of them showed voltage. Suggestions?
  4. I tried the test. I'm not sure which is the third wire, I think it's the red one. That is were I started, and I checked them all. I couldn't find my test light so I used my voltmeter. I figured I would see voltage at idle and none off idle. I didn't see any kind of voltage at all, in either position. Though one point I am not totally clear on is, the key would be in the on position with the engine not running to do this, correct? That is how I performed the test. If I did it correctly, then this would mean the nose swt is bad. If so, can this be fixed? One other thing I neglected to mention is when I did a test drive, after the tps reset, the car hesitated or stumbled when I hit the gas, then took off. I am not sure if this has anything to do with my problem, but I figured it may prove helpful in the diagnosis. As for the idle speed I set it at about 900 rpms, though after the tps reset the car wanted to idle at about 1000 to 1100 rpms. When the fans kicked on the rpms would sit at about 900 again. I double check the slack in the throttle cable and it was fine, about 1/4 inch of play.
  5. I did check the min idle screw, back the screw out all the way, turned it til the touch point, then backed off 1/2 turn. I was having a tuff time getting the idle to set prior to TPS reset. After I jumpered the yel+red connection to ground, it would idle high then drop about 1 to 2 hundred rpm all of sudden then go back to normal. I believe it was when the fans kicked on. I tried to get it while the fans were off. I was unaware of the nose swt. Is it the switch in the tip of the ISC? If so how would I go abouts testing and checking it? For the air leaks, I sprayed starter fluid almost every were, prior to me changing every thing out, but I will try it again to include the inj housing if the weather calms down for a day. Thanks Shelby.
  6. After replacing everything else I guess it is time to replace the ISC. Need a good one. Thanks.
  7. Well after using the right connector, I reset the TPS. The car idles wonderfully, however I am still having the dieing problem. I swapped out the MAS and still the same results. From what I gather from around the site it is the ISC that is the problem. Any one know where I can get one?
  8. Yes the wires I described were the ones from the plug to the ISC. I guess I was trying to get the readings from the wrong plug, I will try it tomorrow after work, hopefully will this cure the dieing problem. Thank you mike c.
  9. Well I have searched the FAQ and Virtual Mech. did what I could and my 89TSI still is dieing after hard acceleration. I have replaced the fuel pump with the Bosh 350 from TEP, I have replaced the fuel filter, the water temp sensor, the injectors with Trilogy stock replacements, plug wires with Magncore 8mm wires, plugs with NGK Iridiums, and the injector clips. I went to do the TEP reset after putting everything in, as per the FAQ, but I could not get the .90v at the ISC. I am not sure I am even getting the right readings because my wires to the ISC are different colors from the FAQ. They are blk/blu, blk/grn, and blk/red. Tried it several time and I get only .019v to .024v no matter were I put my leeds. The FAQ said something about the wiring harness between the ISC and the ECU being faulty if I don't get the .90v, so what do I need to do to correct it? Any advice would be helpful, Thanks.
  10. The shifter is extremly loose. There is so much play in it that I have a hard time getting it into 5th, sometimes go into 4th instead of 2nd. I just want to have something tight, even if it is stock.
  11. Need a good shifter. Stock or aftermarket. Got a MK1 off ebay... :? ... after mine went bad. Now I need one to replace it.
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