Jump to content

WOTDrifter

Members
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Interests
    DRIVE SIDEWAYS!!
  • Location
    Erie, PA

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • AIM
    WOTDrifter

WOTDrifter's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. I will buy it and pick it up this coming weekend 3/27. can i buy it for 300$?
  2. wondering if this thing is still for sale. i'll take it in a heartbeat. haven't had a quest in 4 years and definitely am ready to get back in the game.
  3. sorry, forgot to put this into the ebay notices.
  4. Hey guys, i've got a set of wheels for sale on ebay right now, they are painted and polished. check em out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mitsub...1QQcmdZViewItem
  5. Head unit: Definitely Eclipse, without a doubt. best sounding head unit i've ever had or heard. the 8 volt outputs are key. it's just alot more pure going out to the amps so you don't get the distortion from the head AND the amp, just from the amp. Only draw back with the eclipse is there aren't too many user features, but it makes up for with the best quality sound around. Speakers: I have to go with polk. it seems like there wasn't any dispute about them being not that great, but for the price they are amazing i think. very clear and crisp, i've got about 400 amps goin to the front components and i get no distortion all the way to the limit. they're crossovers are very precise and separate frequencies very efficiently. Subs: I have to go with polk again, only the MOMO series though. Their great cause they sound so smooth and precise. Not the most powerful sub i've heard but the quality is right up there. A couple of my buddies have had much more powerful subs with alot more power goin to them and they are impressive, but i've always gotten the same reaction from anybody: "that's just ONE 12" sub?" They are just so crisp and clear. I listen to alot of hardcore and metal type music, and when double pedal bass kicks in, it doesn't miss a single hit, where alot of subs will kind of mesh it all together, then i can switch it over to ghetto music and the bass will be so tight, i won't be able to breathe. I'm not to into the overwhelming power and maybe that's why i like the eclipse and polk setup i've got. they aren't by far the most powerful system you could imagine, but the sound quality is superb. and for me, the quality is much more important to the quanity in regards to music. other brands i like: MB Quarts for highs and mids Clarion for head units Alpine for amps Boston Acoustics for mids Infinity for highs, mids, and subs(only perfect 12's though) And i absolutely despise sony, they should never have gotten into the car audio business, they're home stereo stuff isn't even that great. They just need to stick to tv's and computers
  6. you definitely want the sub facing up towards the glass. I have mine at an angle so that it its face is parallel with the glass. it sounds real tight and the only that rattles is the hatch itself and that's because it's old and a little loose. i used to have it face straight to the front, but with it facing towards the glass the hits are much more precise and solid. If you go with 2 seperate subs for seperate frequencies you can do a couple different things. You can always put crossovers inline. You can also set up your boxes differently. if you want to have ported boxes, depending on what kind of subs you have and what frequencies you want them out, you design the tubes for the ports at different lengths. this controls where the subs cut out. The only problem with ported boxes that i've encountered with hatchbacks are that they tend to sound a bit airy because of it moves the entire car's air, while with a trunk, it only moves the air in the trunk. I'd say go with 2 eight inch subwoofers and put them in where the rear speakers go, that way they'd be above your main woofer so they don't get too drowned out. also make sure that you have crossovers to control what frequencies are going where. Keep your 12 in the rear facing the hatch, and make sure you've got some mids and highs up front. that would sound ideal i think.
  7. I had seen some guy that had taken newer prelude lights and replaced the pop-ups with those, they were amazing looking. Can't remember where i saw it though Mike
  8. wow, i had no idea, where can i find those, i'd really like to check those ones out, also, i dont' know if its new, but they've got the arcade game now out at the movie theater her in town, it's pretty cool
  9. Ha, you know it, yeah, it's the EX-6 v the AE86, my friend just picked it up from FYE, i still gotta see it, the 5th one is comin out soon too, i can't wait, supposedly Tak blows a motor or somethin in the next one
  10. Actually, if you haven't already ordered them, go with the slotted and crossdrilled, slotted rotors are for getting the gases out from under the brake pad which causes brake fade, also, the crossdrilled might take away from surface area but exactly what Conquest351 said, it takes the heat and puts in inside the rotor, it heats up the rotor and helps with braking, heat is actually a friend when it comes to brakes, you want to keep your brakes, although you don't want the gasses that comes with your brakes being hot, and that's what the slots are for. Also the crossdrilled makes the rotor lighter which is good cause rotors are unsprung weight and the less unsprung weight you have the better.
  11. I drift with my starion, and my friend had a 240 and drifted with taht and hated it, he loves drifitng with my car, he got rid fo that and got a 2nd gen RX-7, and he still loves drifting with the starion alot better, i'll tell you what though, it's not about suspension, weight distribution or whatever, it's all technique, and you can only figure it out once you start practicing, don't even think about what kind of suspension or mods or whatever you want to do till you find out what you can do with the car, you need to modify your car to your needs, if you need a stiffer suspension then upgrade, but i haven't had a problem with my suspension at all The only real problem i've had with it is that the frame is a bit loose, that's something that you guys are forgetting about, you need to stiffen up the frame alot, your frame bends and twists alot when you gettin your car sideways Another problem i've found is that our brakes are too weak, i use the brake to induce the drift, shifts all the weight to the front of the car, making the rear super easy to get out, just heel and toe with the rpms high, and you've already got boost so you don't have to worry about the extra power slammin the back end around, makes things extremely predictable I use different techniques though, for short ubrupt turns, closer to 90 degrees, i'll heal and toe a brake drift, for long turns, i'll powerslide, and the key for powersliding is to slowly increase acclereration into the turn, you have to wait for it, start turning into the turn early and accererate, you'll get a higher top speed and hit the apex perfectly, once your sideways though, you have to hit the throttle hardcore, you'll see if you try it out Don't EVER E-BRAKE TO INDUCE A DRIFT, it's a cheater's way and should only be used for f/f cars, you'll wreck your tires alot faster too Also, i believe that your turning pole or whatever is slightly behind your engine, when you drift, your front tires are also sliding, however it all depends on your angle Sorry, that this is so long, but i've got a response to almost every post in here I owned 2 different S13s before buying my Starion - Diamond Star Sorry dude, but unless you got those imported from japan, you only had 240's, it bugs me to no end when people say they have s13's cause the s13 is the chassis name, not the car name, and 240's had a completely different chassis then the s13. Understeering isn't a problem, actually almost 90% of a drift is understeer, once you've got the rear end out, your understeering the entire time to get it back on track or to keep it sideways, only if it's a long drift and you need to readjust the angle back out do you start to oversteer again If you guys want to watch some awesome drifting, check out the anime Initial D, i know it's only a cartoon, but it's still cool, you might even learn a couple things
  12. Eclipse deck polk 6 1/2 component system in the front with polk crossover eclipse 4" in the dash eclipse 6' in the rear Polk Momo 12" pushin the bass with a custom box 600 watt legacy for the sub 400 watt jensen for the components by the way, fastquest, your right about that sound stage, however, the 6x9's are awesome in the back, in the door they aren't good cause they are too low to the ground, the tweeters in them point directly to the floor, if they are put in the back, they are a perfect supplement for the subs, they handle the low mid bass that a sub can't hit and the 6 1/2's are too small for, and the tweeters give you the highs since the tweeters don't quite get the highs to the back too well, this allows you to set your subs at a lower frequency, and you don't have to worry about your 6 1/2's goin to low and blowin the surround Mike
×
×
  • Create New...