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110 amp GM alternator conversion


Chad
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Intercooled 2.6L StarQuest Conversion   AC Delco CS-130 Alternator

 

1.  110 Amps; ALL PARTS NEW, new brushes, HD bearings, HD hi-temp rectifier (best one on the market), upgrade 1 wire regulator, or standard regulator, upgrade “Iceberg” rear case.  Stator, rotor, fan, pulley, & large bearing front case ARE NEW.  

 

2.  Custom bottom bracket for the most available parts version of GM alternator model.  Pulley is spaced for proper belt alignment.  The case however is a particular one to fit into the stock upper bracket w/no modifications.  There is no “off the shelf” version of this alternator at any parts store.

 

3.  All mounting hardware & wiring connector pigtail.  

 

4.  Instructions

 

PRICE:       $225 Shipped in the lower 48.    (No Core charge)

 

Options :

 

1.  Chrome Case:  We don't recommend the chrome case due to heat restrictions.

 

2. Your Color Powder Coated Stator Stripe, Fan, & Pulley as in the pictures available by E-mail. $40.00

 

3.  Your Color Painted Stator Stripe, Fan, & Pulley                  $10.00

These colors may or may not be a perfect match.  Send us a pic of your color, & we’ll do our best to match it, or call to further communicate a specific match.  No returns for paint dissatisfaction.

 

Method of Payment:

 

VISA, MasterCard, Money Orders, & Cashier’s Checks

 

NO PERSONAL CHECKS!  NO COD’S!  

 

One-Year Warranty.  

Shipping on repairs is charged if we decide to do you a favor & fix an unwarranted repair for free, such as broken cases due to accidental mishaps, etc…  If we receive your alternator back for an agreed upon warranty repair, & the problem is not what you said it was, & or not covered under warranty, then we reserve the right to either fix it or not fix it as we deem fits the situation.  We do not warrant an obvious continuous amp overdraw/fried due to being taxed beyond its capabilities alternator, or if it has not been hooked up properly, etc… etc…

 

FYI:        

We can do the one wire thing to any CS Series alternator, & some others.  We also do many other upgraded starters & alternators to fit most any vehicle.  Please call us to find out if we can meet your need.  

 

(970) 240-9273  > ask for Loren or Pat and tell them Tim_C. sent you : )

P.S. - May require a 1 - 2" longer belt. Mine and some others did not, but at least 2 people said they needed a longer one. Whether that is due to a shorter than OEM belt being used, don't know?

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  • 2 months later...

Installation instructions for CS-130 Alternator Conversion

To 2.6 L Intercooled Turbo StarQuest Engine

We think Non-Intercooled are the same, but just haven't done it to mine yet.

 

These steps are to be done by a qualified mechanic.  Some common mechanical & safety knowledge is required to properly install this alternator.  These are our suggestions only, and we are not liable for any damages that result from an improper installation attempt.

Tools needed are a metric socket set & wrenches; a 3/8” wrench; leverage tool for belt tensioning; crimp tool; cigarette lighter/heat source for heat-shrink tube; 30 watts or more soldering iron & resin core electrical solder; battery terminal cleaner; baking soda & water with a brush to clean the battery, terminals, & connectors.  

1.      Disconnect both of the battery terminals starting with the negative one.  Make sure they will not spring back to touch the battery posts inadvertently.

2.      Inspect the battery cables for bad/corroded connections & repair them now if necessary.

3.      Remove the splashguard from under the engine bay (4 Bolts)

4.      Remove the existing alternator, & save the fan belt to reuse unless it needs replacing.

5.      Note the orientation of the custom bracket on the new alternator, & then remove it.

6.      Lift the new alternator up into its cavity/area.  It will fit between the sway bar & the oil dipstick tube.  

7.      Tie it up out of the way, or have a friend hold it while you place the custom bracket into place on the engine front cover where the old lower alternator bolt came out of.  Be sure to orient it the same way it was on the alternator before you took it off (smaller 8mm bolt).   Finger tighten only at this time.  

8.      Slip the alternator into the other side of the bracket (larger 10mm bolt),  & finger tighten.  

9.      Remove the bolt from the top ear of the alternator (this can be done first, as long as you don’t lose it!).  

10.      With the belt already in the grooves of the crank & water pump pulleys; swing the alternator up to where you can slip the belt into its pulley groove. Don’t try this with the top bolt in! The stock sized belt needs this room to get on the pulley.

11.      Now line up the top ear hole with the adjustment slot on the upper bracket, & thread the bolt in. Leave it loose at this time.

12.      Tighten the larger 10mm bolt on the alternator side of the custom bracket FIRST.

13.      Use a tool for leverage to place the desired amount of tension on the fan belt, & tighten the upper bolt in the adjustment slot.

14.      Tighten the lower bracket bolt on the engine front cover.

15.      Inspect the charge wire (bigger 8ga SAE equivalent) for good wire strand to terminal connection, & repair if necessary at this time.

     16.  Install the charge wire to the rear bolt on the back of the alternator.  Do not over tighten!!  It needs to be tight, but unwarranted interior damage to the alternator can occur if you go too far with it.  This is the only wire to hook up on the 1 wire set-up.

17.      Standard regulator set-up:  Remove the existing alternator wire connector from the car harness, by cutting the two wires about 5”-6” back (roughly the same length as the new pigtail).  

18.      Strip the wire insulation about a ¼” back on both wires, being careful to not cut or damage any strands of copper.

19.      Insert the supplied heat-shrink tubing onto its respective size wire

20.      Crimp the larger sized wire from the car harness to the “S” terminal on the wiring pigtail (“S”=Sensor).  

21.      Crimp the other one to the “L” terminal on the pigtail (“L”=Lamp).

22.      Solder both crimp connectors.

23.      If you don’t have a lamp circuit, then you have a problem that is fixed by using the “I” or “F” wire on the pigtail.  The alternator regulator needs EITHER the lamp circuit to work, OR the ignition circuit. “I” or “F” = Ignition Circuit  

23.      Place the heat-shrink tube over the crimp connectors, & use a heat source to shrink them snugly.  If you forgot the heat-shrink, then just use electrical tape to insulate the wire connectors.  

24.      Properly orient the connector, & plug it into the alternator.

25.      Reinstall the battery wires to their correct battery terminals.

26.      Reinstall the splashguard.

 

 

 

 

ADDENDUM A:

           Due to some applications we have included the "I" or "F" wire in the pigtail.  This wire will allow the alternator to charge with no other wires on the pigtail hooked up. Some StarQuests don't have the battery lamp/dummy light in the dash.  On these you can just hook the "I" or "F" wire to a switched ignition source, i.e. one that is on(+12V) with the key in the run position, & off with the key off, or in the accessory position. It only draws 25ma, so anything that is on with the key on will work for this source & not be affected negatively. You can still hook-up the “L” & “S” wires with the “I” or “F” wire hooked-up too. This is if you want some protection against future harness problems, or the light bulb going out, etc.. If the dash light goes out on some models, the alternator will not receive the signal to charge. You can hook them both up for added insurance against failure should the lamp circuit go out.  There is a bypass in the stock circuitry on most models, that is supposed to keep it working should the idiot bulb go out.  We have seen this fail on a StarQuest, & made for a lot of troubleshooting to figure it out.  That’s another reason why we include the “I” or “F” wire in the pigtail now, just in case another StarQuest lamp bypass circuit should fail.

           We say "I" or "F" due to the pigtail connector sometimes has an "I", & sometimes an "F". The pigtails come marked PLIS for the 4 position plug. You don't need the "P" wire, so we cut it off for simplicity. We are leaving the "I" wire on too, since if there are problems with your cars wiring, or if you don't have a lamp circuit, you can just hook-up the "I" (Ignition) or "F" wire & the alternator will charge the battery.  

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We do offer a 140 Amp version of this same alternator case set-up.  It has a wave wound stator that is far superior than any other alternator you can put on a StarQuest.  However, it will run hot if a 140 Amp draw is demanded consistently/all the time.  So, as a result of that, we do not offer a warranty on it, and it is $20 more than the 110 Amp version.  Theoretically, it should handle the load and the heat no problem.  We have it on several different hi Amp draw applications with big stereos, etc…, and no problems so far, but due to the nature of the application, we know there is a hi probability that abuse will happen, so we won’t warranty this baby.  

 

Tim C.

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  • 10 months later...
After trying 4 different belts with this new alternator, I finally got the right one, the stock belt was just a little too short, it may help if you start with a Good Year Gatorback V-belt part number 15402 / 11AV1005, this is the one that fit perfect on mine at least.        Rob
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  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...
here is I think what the discription says. its not just a bracket. the whole case of this alternator is pieced together from different alternators that are never in one place in any certain application so you can't just go and buy such a think.  Tims with his knowlege of alternators was able to put together different parts of different cases to make one with the correct offset and mounting location to fit our car.
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here is I think what the discription says. its not just a bracket. the whole case of this alternator is pieced together from different alternators that are never in one place in any certain application so you can't just go and buy such a think.  Tims with his knowlege of alternators was able to put together different parts of different cases to make one with the correct offset and mounting location to fit our car.

 

Exactly...

This was in the first post:

2.  Custom bottom bracket for the most available parts version of GM alternator model.  Pulley is spaced for proper belt alignment.  The case however is a particular one to fit into the stock upper bracket w/no modifications.  There is no “off the shelf†version of this alternator at any parts store.  

 

Explains it pretty clear to me...

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

>>...P.S. - May require a 1 - 2" longer belt. Mine and some others did not, but at least 2 people said they needed a longer one. Whether that is due to a shorter than OEM belt being used, don't know?<<

 

I was one of the early buyers of this alternator and was probably the first one who needed a longer belt to get the thing to work.  That said - I had gone through the stock alternator and two rebuilds prior to buying Tim's masterpiece.  This thing just plain works.

 

MCA

'88 Quest

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  • 4 years later...
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