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Help me out guys! No spark on my new 89


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#1 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 03:42 PM

Hey all, long time no talk. Got a screaming deal on a Fiji and am back in the game. Here's what's going on.


No tach jumping when cranking, the car was at a shop to get a tune up and all of a sudden wouldn't start and they couldn't figure it out. They installed a New
Eci relay, and new distributor. I swapped out ignitors with the same result. Also bypassed the eci fusible link with no change. I have 12v at the positive side of the coil with the key on. Coil wiring looks to be correct as well.

Couple things I've noticed, red wire going into the eci relay only has .6 volts. Also I'm thinking the dudes at the shop might have jumped the car backwards as he was very careful when hooking up the jumper pack when I was there, like it had be done wrong before.


What are my other options here? Ecu? Ignition switch? I'm lost. Thanks in advance



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2003 600rr ,1987 conquest, and a soon to be 03 cobra powered 1968 mustang coupe.





#2 markhansenconquest

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 05:03 PM

u cant trust what some ya hooo said they checked ,,because most of them don't have any clue.......( That's y u have the car now ) ..how do they know the  used ingnitor is good ?? I had 1 and tested it no good 89 and a 87 ...u need to get parts that have been tested to be good now not 3 years back........85 bucks shipped USPS........ for a tested MD 125748.....tested on my car !!!  NOW.........if your tack does nt  jump it most likely the box.........IMO............I keep spares for both my cars ....(one stock and one not ) that's how I can fix my cars for cheap...............

#3 Chad

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 09:14 PM

Reverse jumping has been known to kill the ETACS under the drivers seat, and I believe in the. 88 an 89s had an another in the ETACS that prevented starting by killing the ignition signal.  See if there are other ETACS functions that don't work.

#4 87redcat

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 03:17 AM

If the alarm went off would it do the same? Mine only went off once but the car was locked so when I unlocked the door it deactivated it.  Worth a shot to lock and unlock the drivers door.
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#5 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 01:05 PM

 Chad, on 10 October 2017 - 09:14 PM, said:

Reverse jumping has been known to kill the ETACS under the drivers seat, and I believe in the. 88 an 89s had an another in the ETACS that prevented starting by killing the ignition signal.  See if there are other ETACS functions that don't work.

I've got windows, and security lights up on the dash when I lock it and hold the handle up.

The ignitor I swapped from a friends car that ran 3 or so years ago and then got the motor pulled.
The eci relay and distributor  were new or remans in box and I have the old ones
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#6 jinx

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:12 PM

with the key on, are all lights on the dash ? motor Will only keep cranking if not
Had a few starquests that I would reach under dash n wiggle the harness from the fuse panel or the loom going upwards
the lights would come on and u hear a short buzz from the isc(at the tbi) - car started half a crank then, every time

#7 Chad

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 10:02 AM

It's been a really long time, but I seem to recall a case where the ECU died from reverse jumping.  The Igniter is triggered by the ECU, that is how is controls timing (pulling during detonation).  If the ECU is damaged, you won't get that trigger signal to the igniter.  An ECU swap with a known good might be something to try.

#8 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 05:56 PM

Cars been sitting at work for a bit, swapped in my brothers 87 ecu and nothing still. Who's got ideas for me cause I'm running out! Or if anyone has access to the electrical portion of the manual let me know, seems as if starquest garage never got it uploaded?
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#9 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 05:56 PM

@jinx I don't know honestly, I'll have to Check it the next time I look at the car
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#10 scott87star

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Posted 21 October 2017 - 01:15 PM

Quote

The Igniter is triggered by the ECU, that is how is controls timing (pulling during detonation).  If the ECU is damaged, you won't get that trigger signal to the igniter.

That's incorrect, the ignition system on a starquest is independent from everything else, it consists of the distributor, knock box (ignitor) and coil.  The ECU is fuel only and gets it's rpm information from the negative side of the coil.  So if you have no spark keep circling between the distributor pickup, knock box and coil, one of them is suspect.  My guess is the knock box but I did have a coil go bad on me once 1000 miles from home.  It ohmed correctly per FSM but when I swapped the knock box with a known good one and it still didn't start I bought a cheap 12V coil from the local auto parts store.  Fired right up.  The knock boxes get corrosion around the through hole mounting points where the external wires penetrate the circuit board, when it gets bad enough it shorts out the circuit, you can clean them and resolder which often fixes them, the 88-89 knock boxes are pretty easy to open up and service.  The distributor pickups are pretty reliable but the connections inside the dizzy are not, doesn't hurt to clean the distributor connector either.

Use the 88 FSM on starquest garage, its the same as the missing 89.  Mitsubishi used the same wire colors throughout the model run, the 86 is the only odd one that you'd need the exact wiring diagram.
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#11 Chad

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Posted 21 October 2017 - 01:21 PM

How does the system know to pull timing during knock?

#12 tsi_tom

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Posted 21 October 2017 - 02:03 PM

What does the pickup coil measure in ohms?

Section 8-142 is the circuit diagram

Section 8-155 is the pickup coil inspection

Edited by tsi_tom, 21 October 2017 - 02:09 PM.

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#13 scott87star

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Posted 21 October 2017 - 08:15 PM

Quote

How does the system know to pull timing during knock?

That's why Mitsubishi call it a knock box, not an ignitor.  Knock sensor feeds into the knock box.
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#14 jinx

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Posted 21 October 2017 - 10:36 PM

Quote

I have 12v at the positive side of the coil with the key on
make sure u have 12v while cranking too

#15 Chad

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Posted Yesterday, 02:53 PM

View Postscott87star, on 21 October 2017 - 08:15 PM, said:

That's why Mitsubishi call it a knock box, not an ignitor.  Knock sensor feeds into the knock box.

FYI, Mitsubishi  calls it an "Electronic spark control ignitor".

You have an 89 wiring diagram?  skip to page 8-46 or 8-129 (same diagram).   There are fuseable links s between the coil and the ECI control relay.

It also shows all the wires between the ECI and the Ignitor.  Pages 8-52 and 8-53 show the ECI wiring diagram.

The ECI gets it's timing signal from pin 1 on the larger ECI connector.  Pin 13 is the timing advance adjustment, it also connects to the Igniter.

Pin 11 on the small ECI connector is the injector timing signal from the igniter.

Check those fusable links on 8-46, and the grounds on 8-53.

#16 Chad

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Posted Yesterday, 03:01 PM

Snipped from an old FAQ I made to convert an 86 harness to fit an 87+ ECU (something I did a long time ago).

87-89 TSI large A connector:

W 1: IGN signal (coil)
WB 2: AFS
LR 3: Motor position SW
B 4: GND
GR 5: air Intake temp
YG 6: Coolant temp
YR 7: Idle SW
8: n/c
9: n/c
GR 10: +5 volt power
W 11: O2 sensor
YB 12: ISC – (in)
YB 13: Ignitor advance
LY 14: MPS GROUND backup
GW 15: TPS
BW 16: Barometric sensor
17: n/c
18: n/c
LgB 19:pressure
RG 20: secondary air (catalyst)
BR 21: Diag. Output
WR 22: control relay (fuel pump)
YL 23: ISC + (out)

87-89 TSI small B connector:

R 1: IGN +12 V
B 2: GND
B 3: GND
RW 4: EGR
BY 5: IGN START(cranking)
BW 6: AC switch
R 7: IGN +12 V
BY 8: GROUND
YG 9: Boost gage
YB 10: Injector 1 (primary)
BR 11: Ignitor signal FOR INJECTOR TIMING
YL 12: injector 2 (secondary)
B 13: +12 V CONSTANT




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