machquest

Omaha starquest owners, anybody? will be making a trip to the dump tomorrow!

have a "conquest" and a "tsi" sticker from chrysler, new, unused, in original shipping envelopes. $35 for the both, plus shipping or mailing, whichever. will email pictures if wanted. Jim

I need to do some spring cleaning. Anybody around Omaha want to pick up some parts I've got? NO CHARGE, but take one, and take all! They would fit in a minivan, station wagon, small pickup, or gas-hog SUV without a problem. Don't want to toss them if someone can use them. Parts range from the small stuff like relays and fasteners, to medium sized stuff like cassette/radio/eq's, antenna motor, tranny cooler, to larger stuff like rear spoiler parts, a right front fender, tires and rear window louvers. As I said, all or nothing PLEASE. I need to clean out the garage soon, and, besides. they're FREE! If I don't hear from you, I will be hauling them to the Omaha neighborhood collection site within the week. Thanks! email me with questions and phone #.

also came across a factory mitsu brake reservoir for the starquests. New in package with lid and pigtail wiring. $25 includes non-priority shipping.

$25, and that would cover the USPS shipping, like the parcel post (non-priority) delivery.

Sorry I'm behind on replying here. I was getting notifications of some but not all of the individual messages and replying to just those. I will reply individually too when I get a minute, but I'll just give you all an update on the stuff here, too. Looks like the hood is sold. If the money doesn't clear for some reason, I will let you all know, of course, but it sounds like it is pretty much a done deal. Just waiting for paypal to clear the funds. The TSi rear decal is not a separate decal, it is applied to the tail section that joins up with the hatch latch and window. The piece itself is off of a red quest and the decal on it is in good shape. The relay kit is from Top End Performance and I'd have to look again but I believe it does not actually contain any relays, just the wiring and schematic to bypass the cooling fan thermostat relays so that they are always on. I have some other relays, too, though, so when I get a chance (hopefully by the end of the day) I will post any part numbers I can find on what I have. I also borrowed my boss's digital camera and took a couple more pictures of the tranny cooler but he didn't have his camera cable so I could download them, so I'm waiting for him to send them to me. I think that takes care of it? Thanks for your interest and patience! Jim

sent you an email with photos. Omaha, NE. thanks for asking!

Have miscellaneous parts for an '88 Conquest/Starion, including an '83 hood, includes scoops and vents, in excellent condition, just needs a good wet sanding. hood was media blasted, then black primer/sealed, then flat black paint on top to protect/seal the primer. the top coat could use a little sanding to make perfect, but there's plenty of paint on it to work with. Also have stock air canister, 2 225/50/r16 fulda extremo tires that still have some miles left on them, an aftermarket rear window louver in good shape, plus other assorted parts, including a new factory antennae mast, an "always on" engine fan bypass relay kit with instructions, spare tire strap, homemade spare tire cover, bra (no straps), shift console trim, right front electric blue fender with small dent on leading edge, 4 new castrol max pro 3950 oil filters, transmission cooler in very good shape, various underhood relays and hardware, silver rear spoiler, red rear window mount with conquest tsi decal in good shape, radiator overflow tank, inside rear view mirror, back seat vinyl trim piece (passenger side, i believe), good sunroof glass with one latch missing, 2 am/fm/cassette/graphic eq units (cassette not working), power antennae motor (works), '88 factory shop manual in excellent condition (cover faded). Bax is the only company that will ship the hood for me. If you have an airport terminal near you that receives from Bax (I can check if needed), I can ship it to you. Same with the rear window louvers , sunroof and front fender. Otherwise, local pickup only on those items. The tires I will give to someone in the area if they want to pick up. $350 for the hood, $100 for the rear louvers. Other stuff I would like to sell as one, for $150, but might be negotiable. Have pictures, but I have not mastered the art of posting on another website so I can post here. Will forward to you if you email.

if Bax will ship to an airport terminal near you, i can ship my '83 hood to you. $350 plus shipping. scoop and vents included.

i have an '83 hood. if you have an airport terminal nearby check to see if Bax will ship to it. if so, i can ship it. otherwise, local pickup from Omaha. $350, plus shipping, if needed. scoop and vents included. would post pictures but at this point i'm just getting reacquainted with this website again and don't know if that's an option.

question...when welding in the new rails, is it advisable to pretty much gut the interior? i'm imagining heat transfer to at least the carpeting, and possibly other vitals as well, like the computer stuff in the passenger side kick panel, not to mention the driver's side, where i think there's some potential heat issues with brake & gas lines... also, do the old ones come out by sawzall, plasma cutter, torch? what's best? 'preciate it.

on the question of extending mileage on synthetic oil changes, i just finished skimming through a book i downloaded called "the motor oil bible". it has a lot of technical specs on motor oils; synth, blend and full organic. the specs for synthetic oils are really amazing, which supports the extended oil change intervals. one of the main concerns though, especially with turbos, is the oil is still getting filtered properly, that is, does it need changed? the author states that a really good test to determine if your filter needs changing is to drive the car at highway speeds for say, 45 minutes (in other words, make sure it's fully warmed up), and then pop the hood and feel the oil filter. if it's too hot to touch, it's still working, still filtering. if it's cool or just warm (although on our cars i can't imagine anything under the hood NOT being hot), that means the circulation system is bypassing the filter because it's clogged (dirty, in need of replacement). the downside with synthetics is, as already mentioned, the leakage from seals & gaskets on high mileage engines. the synthetic refiners have addressed that issue somewhat, and if you get the book, there are specs that can show you which ones are best at preventing leaks. overall, though, synthetics are the way to go...the specs speak for themselves. the link is www.motor-oil-bible.com