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Bolt-In Roll Bar/Race Harness/Race Seat FULL Install How-To

#rollbar #race #harness #seat

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#1 Fuze

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:06 PM

*UPDATED 12.4.15*

So today we go through the motions of putting an Autopower roll bar, Crow race harness and OMP seat into your favorite Starion. But why?
>Stiffens the chassis, ties into floor and rear shock towers
>Can easily be welded in or bolted in
>Meets/exceeds requirements for most solo race regs
>Allows use of race harness
>Actually allows all interior to be kept installed, with some wrangling
>Keeps the roof from caving in


This bar is a fully welded race bar with bolt on legs. The harness bar and diagonal bar are welded into the hoop. (There are other versions without the cross bar, or with removable bars.) There is about six inches of overlap on the legs, 1.750 x .120 DOM steel tubing is used. Steel backing plates and high grade hardware is included. Autopower also has weld-in kits are available to add the front tubes and make a welded six point cage with door bars, required for tandem drift.

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It comes sprayed black, I decided to paint mine before putting it in.

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At this point, the neighbors are looking at me a little funny...

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So first things first , take out the seats, front and rear, and rear seat trim, to make it easier to work in the small space. Remove the rear seatbelts parts and the front lap belt parts. No turning back, you will have to use harness belts for lap belts even if you keep the stock passenger shoulder belt, there won't be room to mount the retractor assemblies. Possibly 1986 year lap belts can be used. Pull the carpet back.
The rollbar can be finessed into the car fully assembled.

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Wiggle the bar around until you get it lined up with the front legs on the floor a couple of inches in front of the chassis cross bracing, and the rear legs resting on the strut towers. Scrape off any sound material from the surface. Give it one last look and check all clearances. Mark the locations with a marker and grab the drill.
If you want to weld the bar in, you can do that now after you grind the mating surfaces down to metal and be done with it.

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Now the fun part. Drill a hole using each plate as a guide, and put one bolt through and loosely bolt up the backing plate on the other side.
The mount plates may not lay perfectly flat, don't worry. Use a longer bolt to pull it together if needed, the body will conform to the heavy plates sandwiching it. Go around until you get all the bolts in loosely.

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When you get all the bolts tight, double up the nuts and hit it with an under coating spray.

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Tighten down the rear leg bolts. Now step back, admire your handiwork and grab a beer. That's it for the rollbar...

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Now I'm going to mock up my seat bracket bolt holes. Obviously this part of the process is going to vary depending on what seat you are using, how it will mount up, etc.

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Here are the official racing type super special seat belt eyelet bolts that bolt through the floor with a large washer on the other side. Most rules say you should have the lap belt on about a 45 degree angle as it goes through the seat. Just ahead of the rollbar was the spot for me, I bolted the other eyelet across on the tranny side.

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All mocked up, note the lap belt eyelets. Ripping the sound material off the carpet where you cut it will make it look neater afterwards. I also sprayed the bolts on the underside of the car with undercoating.

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Finally got the old seat in there. It's seen a lot... The harness neatly and easily wraps around the bar and straight through the seat on a horizontal angle. The lap belts are right where they should be. I'll get around to putting that submarine belt some other time... maybe!

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The SFI tag is supposed to show on the outer harness lap belt.

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Hopefully you checked and made sure the door would close, in this case it does, barely!

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I put the side trim pieces back in the car and will probably put the back seats back in just for looks. I will also put in a harness for the passenger, trying to decide on a cheap adjustble seat to use with the factory rails. The factory sholder belts and retractor in the center console will be removed, as well as the door-frame mounted tabs and all the other parts.

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All buttoned up. Installing the passenger seat is up to you, but you must use the correct harness install due to the missing factory lap belt retractor, or an 86 year setup.


Now this cage isn't weightless, it's over 70 lbs easy. That said, removing all the factory seatbelt parts adds up to a pretty hefty weight, over 20 lbs easily. Switching out the seat saved a bunch of weight, race seats are light and I didn't use a slider. Swapping out the passenger seat for a race seat may make up for the weight offset. The rear seat parts are light except for the seatbacks, that's up to you.

Analysis:
When strapped into that harness you just aren't going anywhere, you can just focus on driving and not on holding yourself in the seat by bracing against the wheel or ebrake handle. If you have the non-Recaro couch seats, you know. The stiffness of the car improved instantly, the car feels like a tank. Being over 6', it's also nice to sit in a correct driving position with clearance for a helmet and room for your legs to be able to heel/toe, etc. Shorter guys, you take this for granted!

In this car I have some suspension upgrades, D2 coilovers and MK1 sway bars/poly bushings as well as some strut bars front and back. The car is very stiff, when you break rear traction and begin to slide it's a no-drama situation. Most car kids will look at you with jealous envy!

*Update
*60950 is the part # for this exact bar, there are street and bolt together versions also.
*Just an FYI you can use the 86 seatbelt setup to run standard belts on the street....-Sotty Dont


Autopower Roll Bars

CROW Enterprizes

OMP America

Summit Racing Universal Seat brackets (similar to what I made here)

Edited by Fuze, 04 December 2015 - 02:37 PM.

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#2 creakyjoints

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:16 PM

What OMP seat is that? Looks llike a perfect fit.
the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#3 taeisallin

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 05:18 PM

wow. thats great info. very nicely done!!

tae
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#4 NotStock88

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 07:15 PM

awesome!
NOOB

#5 Fuze

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 08:03 PM

View Postcreakyjoints, on 03 November 2012 - 05:16 PM, said:

What OMP seat is that? Looks llike a perfect fit.

I'm not sure, it's from 2001 but I'll check the tag. It fits great but the way it mounts is a nightmare.

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#6 89BananaQuest

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 12:58 AM

By any chance have a part number on the roll bar?

#7 Scotty Dont

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 11:03 AM

Just an FYI you can use the 86 seatbelt setup to run standard belts on the street and the rear bolster can be squeezed in.   I'll post my setup in a bit.
John isn't the only one with a not real StarQuest!

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#8 89BananaQuest

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 11:35 AM

Is the bar for our cars ornis it one for a mustang?  Where and how much for one?  I tried google but it didnt pull any thing up

#9 creakyjoints

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:12 PM

Made for our cars. Call them and see.
the dude in the honda said, i thought you said your car was slow, my response was.. well you said yours was fast so i guess we both lied.. haha

#10 Dred_85.5_TSI

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:17 PM

http://www.autopower...icationlist.asp
Posted Image   1984 Starion ES: Currently running 15psi, Stock block (ARP main and head studs rod bolts, Clevite bearings) BSEK, M28 NJV head with mechanical valve train gasket matched on intake and exhaust, Treadstone exhaust manifold and Holset HX35w with BEP turbine housing, MK1 3" stainless exhaust, Old skool HKS super BOV, 3" GM MAF with MAFT, Artinist's old 4" core intercooler, custom Aluminium hard pipes, S13/SR20 Aluminium radiator w/clutch fan, Innovate LC-1 wide band O2, `83 crank pulley with A/C removed.
   `88 5 speed trans with Stedbani short shifter, Stedbani poly trans mount and engine mounts, drilled and slotted rotors, Joly roger stainless steel braided lines(brake, clutch, oil cooler, and ABS delete).
   KYB GR2, Artinist sleeve coil-overs, MK1 poly bushings, Energy Suspension poly end links, MK1 Adjustable tension rods, Cusco front camber plates, Artinist slotted rear camber plated.
  
ABS, A/C, Cruise control.. deleted, Right hand drive E-brake handle.

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#11 89BananaQuest

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 03:47 PM

60950.  Is that the one you have?  Not a bad price looks like 530$ is what i keep finding.

#12 Fuze

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 07:45 PM

View Post89BananaQuest, on 04 November 2012 - 12:58 AM, said:

By any chance have a part number on the roll bar?

Yes, 60950 is the part # for this exact bar. I'll update the post. You can buy direct from Autopower, takes about a month until it's delivered and the delivery is truck freight, so add another $100 on the east coast.

View PostScotty Dont, on 04 November 2012 - 11:03 AM, said:

Just an FYI you can use the 86 seatbelt setup to run standard belts on the street and the rear bolster can be squeezed in.   I'll post my setup in a bit.

Didn't know about the '86 belts that's good info, I'll update the post. I did cut the foam in the bolsters and got them on with the bar, but the old tired vinyl ripped on one in the process so I left that part out.

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#13 MountainAIR

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 02:06 PM

Great how to, thanks for directing me here @FUZE

#14 Fuze

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 02:32 PM

View PostMountainAIR, on 04 December 2015 - 02:06 PM, said:

Great how to, thanks for directing me here @FUZE

My pleasure. BTW the seat has brackets (aluminum angle stock) that are the same as the ones bolted to the floor, the sides bolt together and you can obviously drill them any way you want. Summit has premade ones for sale too for seats with bottom mounts. Bottom mount seats need less room on the sides of the seat.

Summit universal seat brackets LINK

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