ramz28 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Hey guys.. i just installed a walbro 255 and its leaking. I put the stock banjo bolt with fuel damper and it leaks alot. Can i remove the parts and put a bsrb fitting and just cut the hose? Do u have a better solution to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Did you use new copper washers on EACH side of the fitting? If not it will leak, ALOT. Most decent hardware stores carry them, of course auto parts stores should also have them. You can also use aluminum washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Yea i used the copper and the aluminum washers. Tightened them down as m7ch as possible. But it was leaking around the banjo bolt and thw damper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 One type or the other but not both, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 If you want to use a hose barb then remove the stock rubber line. Use a 2' piece of fuel injection hose between the pump and the hard line. Just push the nut back on the hard line and slip the hose over the flared end and clamp it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Also copper washers are better. Aluminum washers can deform when tightened down and cause a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Ok let me tey an explain this better. The walbro came with 2 fittings. The 1st went to the inlet of the pump. It threaded into the pump then the hose with cone filter sliped on and clamped. The outlet of the pump was an adapter. I put a copper washer thw tightened the adapter.then i put a aluminum washer, the stock fuel line, another aluminum washer, then the damper. I tightened all of that and installed it back. When i started the car it was pouring fuel down from the banjo area.it wasnt from the adapter. What i would like to do is cut the ruber line close to the pump and put a barb fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Like I said, REMOVE the stock rubber line. Then run FI hose from the hardline to the pump. The stock rubber line is 24+ years old. Replacing it isn't a bad idea. But first I would try replacing the aluminum washers with copper ones. Aluminum ones are too soft and can deform so bad the spit out the side of the connection leaving a gap for fuel to leak from. Also, throw that cone filter away. It only works with the stock pump. It will partially block the inlet of an aftermarket pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Ok ill remove the cone. So i dont need the damper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 It's not a damper, it's a check valve. You don't need it because the pump has an internal check valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Ahhh i see. Thought i read somewhere it was a damper.. thanjs so much. Im going to order a barb fitting and some hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STARION_NORTH Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 One other thing that helps when using crush washers is to cycle them; tighten the fitting then crack it loose, tighten the fitting again. Maybe even repeat a third time if you still get seepage. Each time you tighten the fitting the washers conform a little bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Dampner http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Catalog%201/FP-22A.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Another pic of the dampener http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Fuel2/FT-42.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) banjo has a nick on face???check surface of check valve face?? are they the right size crush washers??the right ones are metric..ive looked around at auto shops and have only found American sizes....the face of check valve has very thin land ......look at picture..... crush washer must just slip on banjo bolt . the ones that I got from auto zone are to big on ID or to small on ID.. Edited April 11, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 ditch the damper ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 This is a check valve, not a damper. The damper is in the fuel rail under the 2 screw cover. Dampner http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Catalog%201/FP-22A.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) This is a check valve, not a damper. The damper is in the fuel rail under the 2 screw cover. Its weird about that check valve/dampener issue. The book calls it a dampener. And if it is truly a check valve than it would be for what purpose? To prevent drain back into the tank for quick starts? Because with that valve removed there is still fuel at the throttle body after sitting overnight or longer...so I am inclined to believe its a dampener. Also look at the way it is installed on the line. It IS NOT INLINE with the fuel line. Its just off to the side with a spring loaded metal diaphragm. So there is no way for it to be a check valve. Edited April 12, 2014 by JohnnyWadd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Well that is the part. And the banjo and the check valve dampner. Are very rusted and look like theryre in really bad condition. I ordered a 10mm x 1 male thread to barb adapter and some fuel hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 That part only lets fuel flow in one direction. That's a textbook definition of a check valve. You say the "book" calls it a dampener,... please show me where. I've read the fuel chapter and haven't found any references to that part. Even the parts locator manual doesn't identify it. So I identify it by what it does. Mitsu weirdly doubled up in that area. Strainer in the tank, strainer before the pump. Check valve inside the pump, check valve on the pump outlet. There are aftermarket versions too.http://www.ebay.com/itm/9mm-Bosch-044-Fuel-Pump-Outlet-Check-Valve-In-Billet-Aluminium-Banjo-Adapter-/121152467859?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c353ff393&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboat Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 That part only lets fuel flow in one direction. That's a textbook definition of a check valve. You say the "book" calls it a dampener,... please show me where. I've read the fuel chapter and haven't found any references to that part. Even the parts locator manual doesn't identify it. So I identify it by what it does. Mitsu weirdly doubled up in that area. Strainer in the tank, strainer before the pump. Check valve inside the pump, check valve on the pump outlet. There are aftermarket versions too.http://www.ebay.com/...53ff393&vxp=mtr SOS manuals call it a dampener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 SOS manuals call it a dampener The SOS manuals were not written by mitsubishi. They were written by a few members here who were also mistaken about what that part does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Well we can debate the manuals about it but until someone proves otherwise the fact is the car has zero issues with it removed. And often that valve is a problem waiting to happen. So I say ditch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz28 Posted April 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 lol well its removed and the car is running so far. thanks every1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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