sdepani_ATL

Do you have the fusible link block located just behind and to the right of the batter, with two white cables to the + terminal? http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Catalog%201/CAT-92.jpg

I need the sub fusible link block that sits close to the battery and has four fusible links in it, two connectors, and a two wire cable that goes to the battery + terminal. The one I want is the one that says ECI in the middle of the picture below with the red wire coming out of it. If you have one, please PM me. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Batt%20Pos/PS-200.jpg

I sourced the bumper cover from Mitsubishi.

Does anyone have the tail light and rear bumper cover for sale for an 88/89 Starion? If so, please PM me. Thanks

David: After years of driving my car without incident, some nimrod decided to hit me in the back, which puts me in need of some replacement body parts. 1988 Starion. Driver's side rear quarter panels (inner and outer), bumper cover, and driver's side tail light. Please let me know what you can do and a package price for the items, shipped to Atlanta, GA. Thanks, Sebastiano

I need the ABS brake modulator, the indoor temperature sensor in the middle of the inside roof panel above the back seat (shoudl be black rectangular with a grey middle cover), and the inside door latch trim piece that goes around the door opening latch if yours is black.

Positive it is not the hose or the core. I have pulled the dash, removed both the core and the valve, and had both leak tested by a radiator shop. Core cam out clean. Valve is leaking through the plunger. They're going to try and reseal it with new rubber, but that failed once. Anybody got a way to mod it out with something else, or a line on where to get a new one?

Mine's started leaking. Does anyone have a good (non-leaking) heater control valve for sale?

Do you have the heater core?

I need the heater core if you're parting out the whole car. I'm offering $50 plus shipping.

It was a pleasure meeting all of you this past Sunday.

I've finally got my Starion rolling and freshly painted, so I would love to attend a meet. Where exactly is this meet being held? What time?

I just did a 1G radio install. I'm very happy with the radio. I already had put aftermarket amps on the car, so I didn't buy the Mitsubishi amplifier. If you haven't bought it, you can do an aftermarket setup as follows; There's a cable made by Soundgate called MITSAMP. It plugs into the back of the radio, and gives you 4 channel output, plus a trigger. It's only a pigtail so you'll need a 4 wire RCA extension cable and some wire to extend the trigger wire to where you mount the amps. I put mine under the driver's seat. http://store.yahoo.com/logjam/soundmitsamp.html The trigger output of the radio wasn't enough to fire both my AMPS, so I put in a PIE LVT. http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pie1vt.html

Heron: With the 87-89 model years, I think higher flow on the primary may not be a good thing. It will cause the car to run rich precisely in the range where testing occurs. For the car to be clean (smog legal), the primary has to be as close to spec as possible so the ECU can keep the car stoich through the smog testing range. I also read up top where you said machining of the Injector/Mixer was involved. How much? Or, alternately, would it be possible to machine the top of the injector so it would fit a stock mixer?