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Ideal Perch Height w Cosmos?


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In the process of installing a set of Cosmo coilovers (single spring) and I'm looking for some advive on the perch height. I completely removed the stock perch and machined some plates (exhaust flanges) to replace the stock perch. My question is what is an ideal height to weld the new perch at? In the pic it's currently 5 5/16" from the top of the housing. That's putting it pretty close to centered on where the stock perch was welded. I'm not looking to go super low. The plan is for a solid autocross setup, but I do actually drive the car so that is a factor too. The old STs were not up to the task. I'm looking for the most travel I can get with the coil overs not maxed out and still be in the ball park of the drop I had with the ST springs. I'd hate to weld those suckers on there and then end up with 2" or less of suspension travel.

Advice is appreciated!

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img909/5118/lVcmPG.jpg

Edited by psu_Crash
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If i remember correctly the rears were fine at stock height but the front could have been lowered about 2" or so. sorry i dont recall exactly.

 

For reference i ran at stock height on mine when i used to race and my front coils were maxed out for lowering.

Edited by AndyW
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Talking with a member tonight who installed this setup years ago, his advice was to put the new perches at the stock height. That still have him adjustability to dial things in and have enough strut travel. Out of town till Sunday so I'll post updates next week. Just in time for the July 11 auto cross
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Fronts welded up and ready to go back in the car. I have a question though. How do you torque down the nut on top of the strut? Before the D shape in the top hat would keep the shaft from spinning but that's gone now. I have a set of pliers with plastic/rubber inserts in the jaws but that doesn't get a good enough bite to hit the torque spec of 50 ft/lbs.

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7821/14HSuo.jpg

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I managed to hit 30 ft/lbs using the rubber jaw pliers. I don't like the idea of vice grips or a pipe wrench on that shaft. I used new nylock nuts on the shock rod so I think I'll call it good as it is and just keep an eye on it.

I have camber plates for the front too but they need a little TLC upon inspection so the isolators go back on for now to get ready for saturday's race.

Edited by psu_Crash
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Once I had the car back on the ground I was able to torque them down. So all is well. They handled great at the autocross yesterday! But I broke more important things ... like transmission :(
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