Jump to content



Slow leak on Rebuilt Power Steering Pump


  • Please log in to reply
14 replies to this topic

#1 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 24 August 2017 - 07:53 AM

I rebuilt my power steering pump with a rockauto seal kit.   Upon installation in the vehicle and filling the reservoir, I'm noticing a very small leak that appears to be coming from the seal on the main shaft.  It's noticeable after several days.  Note that the car hasn't been started since the rebuild.

I pulled the pump back a part and saw some minor corrosion near the sealing surface on the main shaft.  I polished this out to practically a mirror finish and reassembled (didn't replace any of the seals).   The leak rate seemed to decrease but there is still a leak!  After about 4-5 days of sitting, just the gravity of the ATF in the reservoir is enough to notice ATF on the bottom of the pump and on the sway bar.  

Next step I guess is to replace the seal but curious if anyone has seen this before?  I'm wondering if I simply need to run the car for a bit to 'seat' the seal?  

Frustrating...





#2 techboy

techboy

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,790 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lehigh Valley, PA
  • Interests:Cars .... duh!
  • Model:Starion

Posted 24 August 2017 - 02:06 PM

I rebuilt mine and had a similar issue. It seemed to ooze where the feed line mates up, which is the same place I think you're describing. I also used a Rock Auto rebuild kit. I thought it was just my pump. It does seem to have slowed though now that I have some milage on the car. It's not really leaving a spot anymore, and it was at first, but I can see a bead hanging off the bracket if I get under the car.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

Posted Image

#3 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,650 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 24 August 2017 - 08:51 PM

The first one I rebuilt had the same issue.

I wish I had a metal lathe and could have cut the shaft I tiny micro bit
To clean the surface to be sure it was smoothe and straight.

The second pump I worked hard to clean the shaft up nice.
When I filled the second rebuilt pump I used atf with stop leak.
I know probably not good but not leaking.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#4 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 25 August 2017 - 07:26 AM

Here is a pic of the shaft during the initial rebuild.  You can see rust but also can see the mating surface of the seal.  At the time I didn't bother cleaning it up.

Posted Image

I've since cleaned up all of this rust and polished it nicely.  There is still a hint of corrosion right up near the pulley which is hard to get manually without a lathe but the area the seal sits is now clean.  Unfortunately I forgot to snap a pic.  

Here is a pic of the seal install.  I used the right tool, lubricated the seal, etc.  

Posted Image

All I can think of is that lip on the dust seal is hitting the part with the slightest bit of corrosion...but that still shouldn't make it leak.  The oil sealing surface is like a 1/4" away from that.  

The fluid is so thin that it leaks out of even the slightest void.  Not sure if it is even worth it to replace the seal.  


My feed line isn't leaking, that side of the pump is dry.  I just get fluid on the front side of the pump.  It use to get the bottom of the bracket all wet, now all I see is a little bead drop on the bracket directly under the pulley that drips onto the cross member.    Previously, it would run down the cross member to the drivers side and drip on the ground.   Now I just have a small pool on the passengerside of the cross member but it has yet to drip on the ground (and it has been about 3 weeks since I redid this).

#5 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 25 August 2017 - 07:33 AM

Just ran through the pics I took on initial rebuild.  Here is the photo on when I installed the seal.  I noticed that I didn't add sealer to the outside edge of the seal like I usually do.  Not sure this is the issue or not, but it may be worth a try with the new seal.

Posted Image

BTW, taking these pics initially was a pain but I've found them so helpful down the road.  I've been slumping on taking pics lately, something I need to stop immediately and get back into the habit of doing.



#6 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,650 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 25 August 2017 - 07:28 PM

That seal where it pressed in. Are you sure the outer edge is not leaking?

I was thinking of using some liquid gasket on the outside of that seal just to make sure
That didn't leak.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#7 tsi_tom

tsi_tom

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,065 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Quakertown, Pennsylvania
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 25 August 2017 - 07:33 PM

View Postkev, on 25 August 2017 - 07:33 AM, said:

Just ran through the pics I took on initial rebuild.  Here is the photo on when I installed the seal.  I noticed that I didn't add sealer to the outside edge of the seal like I usually do.  Not sure this is the issue or not, but it may be worth a try with the new seal.

Posted Image

BTW, taking these pics initially was a pain but I've found them so helpful down the road.  I've been slumping on taking pics lately, something I need to stop immediately and get back into the habit of doing.

I kind of refrain from using a driver like that because it seems to hit the seal.  I like using sockets instead.
Engine
20 over forged pistons
Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#8 Tim_C.

Tim_C.

    Addicted Starquester

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,051 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Western Slope of Colorado
  • Interests:Serving Our Lord Jesus Christ!
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 13 September 2017 - 11:45 PM

Did you figure it out yet? I would run it to see if it stops leaking.
'87TSi .510Roller Cam, JE Forged, TS Rings & plateau honed walls, lightened rods, race prepped crank, mains line honed, balanced, 17C, 3"EX, 2"HardPipes, AlFly, rrfpr, 88trans, 3.90's w/posi plate mods, polyBushings, STSprings, KYBStruts, Camber Plates, CustomAlternator
Traded for new set of tires for my wife's Buick: '87 TSI Gold that needs just about all steering and suspension parts replaced, injectors, a new transmission, clutch, and various electrical gremlins. New owner is a mechanic who is already driving it. I couldn't stand letting it sit any more!
'86 ESiR - OEM Roller Cam, Wiseco Forged 8:1 Pistons, Chad's equal length header, TEP T3/T4 turbo, ACT HD clutch, Fidanza Fly, custom 3" exhaust, 3 core oversized radiator, O-ringed block, AJUSA metal shim head gasket, Dawes Device boost controller
'85 Plymouth Conquest Auto , Wiseco 8:1, super light pins, shaved rods, hi-torque cam, 2.5 Exhaust
'84 Dodge Conquest Parts car
'83 Starion - Gutted stock exhaust with '87 TSi muffler, New engine with: BS Elim,forged Wisecos,balanced,Schneider274H,marnal w/oversized stainless valves
'83 Cannonball Run II Jackie Chan car, Basic ring and bearing job w/less than 6K original miles on body, steering, suspension, & rear end, Lightened stock fly, BS Elim, Walbro 255LPH FP, NEW Clearwater head with all new parts, intercooled, 14G turbo, 2750 car weight
'96 Mitsu Mirage w/rebuilt head. Gets 35+MPG.
'87 Dodge Ram50 4WD Rebuilt engine, fresh stock head, Weber carbed, BS elim. Runs great now!
'97 Buick Ultra (supercharged Park Avenue)

#9 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 15 September 2017 - 07:45 AM

I haven't touched it yet..but it's definitely still leaking.   Haven't even ordered the replacement seal.   I've been working on wiring for the MPI harness.

#10 jonboyb

jonboyb

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,527 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Alpharetta, GA
  • Interests:Not saving money
  • Model:Other

Posted 23 September 2017 - 08:50 AM

In almost 30 years of these cars, never had a ps pump issue until a couple weeks ago...had one start leaking pretty bad around front shaft.  Bought the $10 Gates rebuild kit, took a couple hours start to finish in and out of car, and working like a champ now.  The rebuild is super easy....removal/replacement is the worst part...lol

However, the shaft was spotless on mine....zero corrosion.

Edited by jonboyb, 23 September 2017 - 08:51 AM.

87 Valencia Quest - MPI MSII
84 Mezzon Gold Dodge Conquest - Timecapsule
89 Dodge Raider - Turbo TBI MSII
11 Ecoboost F-150....Cause TT is Better than a V8

Posted Image

#11 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 23 October 2017 - 02:21 PM

Well, I had a chance to revisit this.... I bought a different style seal, and it leaked worse then the one in the gates rebuild kit!  

Here is the shaft after polishing:
Posted Image

The new 'all rubber' seal:
Posted Image

This time installed with sealant:
Posted Image

Posted Image

As soon as I put fluid in the reservoir on assembly, it started to leak out the seal, down the front of the pump, and drip on the floor!   I pulled it back out, tore her a part, and compared the all rubber seal to the gates seal.  The gates seal has a noticeable increase in compressive force against the shaft compared to the rubber seal.   In the research I did prior to buying this rubber seal, I found that the 'replacement' seal was for a 18mm shaft with a 32mm bore.   In measuring the shaft, I get .665" which results in only ~17mm (16.9mm to be exact).  I believe here-in lies the problem.  

Now to find a 17mm x 32mm seal....

kev

#12 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 24 October 2017 - 06:58 AM

With further research:  The seal in the gates kit is made by NOK and is part number ADO750F.  Which is indeed a 17mm x 32mm x 7mm seal.  It is a type TB seal (ground metal casing)  

Because it leaked with the gates seal, I'm going to try a type TC seal (rubber covered metal casing). Like the one in the photos above, just in the correct size this time.  I never did figure out the exact point where it leaked with the gates seal (the ID or the OD).  So hopefully by switching to a different seal brand and with the rubber coated casing, I'll have better luck.

More to come...

#13 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 03 November 2017 - 07:04 AM

Just an update...looks like the issue has been finally corrected.  

I bought an 17mm x 32mm x 8mm type TC seal.   It was 1mm wider than the one in the gates kit.  I knew I had enough room to accommodate this and figured it would change the contact area on the shaft as well...plus it was the only one in this size I could find and get quickly (ok, that was more-so the reason, haha).  

Reassembled the pump last Friday, did a pressure test on the bench this time - SAT, installed it on the car, refilled the reservoir, and cleaned up all the mess from the former leaks.  It has been a week and I don't notice any drips/residue.  

Looking back, I should have just rebuilt the pump with more attention to detail using another gates kit from the start.  Oh well, it didn't hold me up on anything.  I had many other items to address in parallel.  It was just a nuisance.  

kev



#14 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,650 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 03 November 2017 - 08:26 AM

where can we get the seal you used?

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!

The Ark was built by amateurs , the Titanic was built by Professionals.


#15 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,773 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 03 November 2017 - 10:24 AM

I just bought this off of amazon

https://www.amazon.c...6AjL&ref=plSrch




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users