1jz swap

[smog]

8)

 

I will post what I have up at the other place, and will be posting my progress as I finish.

 

 

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Well, I was bugged by that too, and my friend helping me, said it wouldnt be a problem cutting the firewall and transmission tunnel out, then moving the engine back a good 6 inches or so, which should give me a better weight distribution than I had before.

 

Tomorrow I plan on going to the parts store to find a new brake booster.

 

here is a paste from sqc. I plan on documenting everything I do. There should be another update in a couple of days

 

Started working on the car a bit today. I decided to cut the firewall since I had the opportunity. This entailed remioving the dash etc, which I needed to do anyways to wire in the new ecu and what not. I figure it would be a good time to get a cage installed among some other things.

 

Its possible to mount the engine without cutting, but I want more than just a straight line monster, so back she goes I am thinking 5-6 inches. The only problem is I will end up running into that brake booster at 4 inches or so. I need to start looking into some kind of replacement. Right now, the engine clears it just fine.

 

 

I cut the front upper brace also, Makes it much easier to pull in and out without that there, I can fix it later..

 

Here are a few pics of the engine just kinda laying in there, There is about 3 inches of space behind the engine right now, so it looks a bit messed up.

 

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/projecto1jz-01.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/projecto1jz-02.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/projecto1jz-03.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/projecto1jz-04.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/projecto1jz-05.jpg

 

 

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Did some more work on the car last night.

 

We cut the firewall out from the bottom of the passenger side front frame well up to the lip, and down to basically 1/2inch from the gas pedal mounting area.

 

Ran into a few problems with moving the engine back. One being, I am actually hitting the front of the oilpan. on the cross member, so I cant move the engine back any farther. I have roughly 3 1/4 inches from the crank bolt to the front of the forward frame member. I wanted another inch or 2, but that cant really happen without extensive work.

 

- as it sits right now in its resting place for the near future, I have 12 1/2inches of engine block in front of the center of the wheels, and 13 1/2 on the back, which isnt as much as I wanted, but it should be manageable. I dont know what my handling will be like, but I will do a write up once I test drive it, wont be for at least a month. Tons of stuff left to do.

 

 

We decided to just go with the stock starion mounts for now, I just need to get this wrapped up and back to my house, so I can get on with the electrical and plumbing. We could have goine with a tubular cross member and moved the engine back more, sat it lower, etc, but that just takes more time than I have right now.

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The way the engine sits right now, it clears everything, and the brake booster too-- I think, havent put it back in yet... But if I wereto move the engine back any farther, I would have to deal with a few variables.

 

Those being the following:

1. I would have to change from a front to mid/rear oil sump, which isnt a big deal, they are bolt on, nd would probably cost me 200 or so.

 

2. The possibility of the mid portion, of the start of the rear sump, hitting the crossmember or steering linkage.

 

3. Shifter location would go back past the cutout of the stock transmission tunnel.

 

4. The gas pedal would have to be worked around, and may have to me moved a little. This was the biggest factor in my decision not to continue going back further. It comes down to the pedal being in the way of some low hanging runners water lines on the back of the head/manifold. The engine sits fairly low, and would hit the mounting area on the firewall for the gas pedal assembly.

 

5. Brake booster will not ctake more than I'd say 3 1/2inches from the front crank bolt to the front frame rail. Anymore and you will be looking for an alternative master, or bb. I planned on ditching it, and adatoing a non brake booster master on there, but it looks like I can keep it.

 

6. You will start to lose sopme passenger foot space from the extended firewall. Especially if you stick with the stock twins. I dont believe this would be as much of an issue witht he correct single turbo setup.

 

7. Figure out a what the hell to do with your heater and blower motor... This may be a problem for me already, since I am basically moving the entire firewall back about an inch from where I cut.

------------

 

The current problems I am looking at with the inch i moved the engine back are as followed.

 

1. Can I still fit the heater core and blower motor under the dash with the modified firewall? I may have to get some sort of aftermarket setup, not sure yet.. If that happens, It will just be set to vent on the windsheild, and have a slider for temp.

 

2. What to do for a radiator with 3 1/4 of space between the front of the engine and the front frame crossmember rail I dont believe the griffin radiator is an option. I am looking into running a 3 core conquest radiator, since it only takes a good inch and 1/4, which should let me shoe horn some electric fans behind it.

 

3. Not really a problem, but I do need a oil filter relocation kit.

 

4. Trying to reassemble my interior, got depressed when I had to thikn about all the crap I had to put back in, after I tore it all out. Will I ever have a nice interior again? May have to get some custom stuff made.

 

5. I dont thikn I can use the stock stabilizer bar due to how low i have the engine set. That damn 1jz front sump oilpan is a huge pig. Its about 3x the size of a g54b is seams. Very wide, not too long, but fairly high.

 

Now for the good, the engine looks pretty awesome the way it is sitting now. Sure looks like it means buisness . I have the shifter in the stock location, but I definately need a c's short throw for this thing, It looks like a damn truck stick sitting in the conquest,

 

What else is good, not sure at the moment, I tihnk my stress level has went up 1000x. The wires coming off the engine harness that go to god knows what make the entire starion wiring harness look like a damn house lamp wiring setup.

 

 

Some misc notes.

 

the 1jz uses 2 knock sensors, I thought that was interesting.

 

- There are 6 mounting holes on the passenger side of the block setiup so you can either move the mount back one set of holes if desired - this must be for the variance between the different cars the engine came in.

 

- engine mounts are super light aluminum.

 

 

Anyways, I will get some pics as soon as I get my digital camera back from the old man. He took it on a camping trip so no pics for a while.

 

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as promissed, pictures

 

Well, took some pics of the car this evening. Engine mounts are done, transmission cross member has been fabbed, well adapted , and the firewall and transmission tunnel are getting welded back in. The engine fits in there nicely, but I wont have any pics of it actually in the car for a few mroe days since dean is in the process of welding up the firewall and tunnel.

 

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-02.jpg

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-03.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-04.jpg

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-05.jpg

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-06.jpg

 

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-enginemount01.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-enginemount02.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-enginemount03.jpg

 

 

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Just a quick update, I will post more later, but the engine and tranny are mounted up, I had a issue with a missing ecu connector that I just received yesterday, so wiring should start real soon.

 

I'm also picking up other misc parts that come along with making more hp, fuel pumps, larger lines, crower cams , new retainers and valve springs for the crazy lift of the new cams, and some cam gears. Also picked up my 2jz water pump, which is required when running either a clutch fan or electric fans, yota thermostat, andsome aluminum underdrive pulleys.

 

Couple pictures.

 

I'm really happy with the way she is sitting in there, just enough room to toss in a griffin I think. I may have to raise the engine 2/8 an inch or so, the oil pan is sitting quite down below the corss member, would be a shame to wipe it out...

 

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in01.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in02.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in03.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in04.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in05.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/1jz-in06.jpg

[smog]

Just a little update. I decided to ditch the stopck ecu and go with a haltech e11v2 ems, which can use all the stock sensors, except of course for a 3 bar map I will be going with.

 

I also may redo the engine mounts and go with some solid mounts. I guess these things are real smooth and many people run a solid mount. Its either that or put some spacers under the stock mounts. I dont feel like wiping out my oilpan on some of the crappy rutted highways around here.

 

I've also started work on fitting the 31x12x3 ebay intercooler I bought on ebay, its not taking too much modification make it fut, just a little cutting around the bumper mounrs. I also decided to cut the bumper up quite a bit and loose a little weight in the front end.

 

This swap would have been done last year if it wasnt for the constant rain since november. I wont make a wohle lot of progress until I get a few decent days on my time off.

[Minagera]

Is that a cusco strut bar I see?

[smog]

yep, I havent put the sticker on it yet, but that be the one from my group purchas 8)

[Minagera]

o____O I want one :-)

[Mango_Motor_Fab]

A little info for ya:

 

multiple engine mounting holes are because front-sump cars such as cressida, chaser, soarer, etc. use different mounting bracket than that of mkIII supra and other mid-sump cars.

 

get rid of the TRC, it only makes the car slower.

 

putting an aftermarket BOV at the stock location is bad. actually, having a stock BOV at the stock location is bad. get it mounted to the IC piping instead.

 

stock turbos will NOT hold up to more than 14psi boost due to ceramic blades coming apart at high boost unless you upgrade the turbo outlet y-pipe. If you look at the stock design, each turbo dumps their exhaust gasses directly at the other turbo, which is what actually causes the stock ceramic blades to crap out. changing out to a better designed y-pipe can allow the stock turbos to put out 18psi (upgrading intercooler is a must though).

 

as for oil filter relocation, you can use an adapter intended for use on a ford motor... the threads are the same.

 

if you install a C's short shifter, you will notice that the shifter is pointed too far towards the passenger side due to japan having RHD.

 

If you intend on using the stock engine wiring harness and still want your ECU in the passenger kick panel, the whole harness needs to be extended 3 feet.

 

make sure you have the resistor box for the fuel injectors. the ones off of a USDM 7mgte or a 2jz won't work with 1jz injectors.

[smog]

reall depends on the turbos for how much they can take, some people are running more than 14, but not much more. As for the rest, yeah I know, I ddi quite a bit of research before buying the engine.

[Matt W]

I will be starting a swap soon and seeing yours brought up a few questions. First off, I will be using a Yamaha SHO V-6 so I shouldn't have to cut up the firewall. Although I'm not sure. I plan on weighing the car at each wheel while mounting the engine/trans. What size/ga sheet metal did you use to fab up the new firewall (looks good btw)? How about tools to cut it?

 

Thanks!

Matt

[smog]

I think we used 18 gauge, cant remember, it isnt very heavy, and a plasma cutter along with a mig for welding.

 

That sho engine is really wide so dont know how it will fit. Speaking of yamaha, they did the heads for the 1jz

[Matt W]

I'm hoping I don't run into any problems with it being wide. After seeing so many guys get away with small block swaps I feel a little more comfortable. The widest thing on the entire engine is the intake manifold. I can't wait to test fit it.

 

I'm sure you will, but please keep posting pics as your progress moves along. The write up you did here is great. Lots of good information.

 

Matt

[redrocketTSI]

Hey smog, looks like your swap coming very nicely! what trans are you gonna be using? You gonna take me for a ride in that thing when it's all done?

 

p.s., i polished that turbo that i bought from you, looks great. Cant want to get my motor put back together so i can feel the boost!

[DJpowerHaus]

I wish you'd do my firewall. I've gotten nowhere with my swap all fall and winter.

[Guest TOYOTA1515]

THIS PROJECT IS AWESOME I WAS GOING TO DO THE SAME BUT I FOUND ME A SUPRA AND I GOT TO STICK WITH IT!

[smog]

Damn, guess I better hurry up and get my swap dpone so I can still say im the first to have a running widebody. I know what im gonna do this weekend. Time to order the rest of my crap from summit and jc whitney too.

 

t66 should be a nice combo, FYI there is a group buy for crower cams on supraforums,. 550 to your door, and they also have a corwer valve train for 300, and then there are some special higher lift cams for a bit more. Cant beat the pricing though.

 

Now if I can just get my damn haltech..

 

Hehe, dean and I got that done in maybe 2/3 weeks working on it a few times a week. Tearing al the interior out probably took as long as fabbing everything else up lol

 

I'm thinking about going with a tilton pedal assembly and blowing away the stock master and brake booster, would clean up the engine bay, and also give me some better braking power I thikn. At least I could run something like 6 piston calipers if I wanted.

[Guest TOYOTA1515]

DONT WORRY I QUIT ON MY PROJECT!

[DJpowerHaus]

I did copy your firewall... much easier than what I had originally thrown together. Mine is a little more symetrical, but I can see the benefits of running the passenger side to the frame rail for downpipe clearance. Thanks for the great idea. It went together much faster your way. My welds dont look as good as yours look (although I'm looking through primer). I'll post mine up (after I paint it of course).

[smog]

the design is mostly Professor not to be confused with profressor quest. He did most of the welding, I did a little, but I really suck in comparison. But yeah, he did a real nice setup, hes been doing this stuff with old muscle cars before I was born, so it was real nice working with him.

 

We just decided it would be easiest to bring it all the way out, since my rear turbo hard pipes comes out the back side of the engine.

 

HI cant wait to see what you cook up with that 4g64/240 front end setup.

 

ps, I started ordering stuff for my swap again. My goal for tomorrow is to find a junkyard driveshaft big with a diameter big enough to fab up the drive shaft, then get my clutch line adapter made. I also need t pull my old rear end out, gonna go 6 bolt 88 rear end, hopefully it isnt too hard to pull.

[Matt W]

I did copy your firewall... much easier than what I had originally thrown together. Mine is a little more symetrical, but I can see the benefits of running the passenger side to the frame rail for downpipe clearance. Thanks for the great idea. It went together much faster your way. My welds dont look as good as yours look (although I'm looking through primer). I'll post mine up (after I paint it of course).

 

Awww c'mon, post the pictures you have now. Not everyone is a professional welder. Besides, if you got ideas from someone elses work don't you think someone might get ideas from yours??

[smog]

guess I made a little progress on the car, but ont the swap

 

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/con...t-stage2-01.jpg

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/con...t-stage2-02.jpg

 

Pulled my old rear end out. I have an 88 rear that will be going in. Its like the perfect time to put bushings in, but I cant afford to do it now and then expect to get this car started anytime soon, so I guess I will wait.

 

The actual suspension linkage is quite light, the torque tube, axels, and calipers definately add up quick thoough.

[Matt W]

Very cool. Progress in any direction on a project this large is always good.

[smog]

Went ahead and had my clutch slave line made today. The one off my r154 was real beat up so i decided tog et a new hardline. Nice thing is, the conquest and supra setup use the same size an fittings which er -3an.

 

So a

15.89 1x 12inch piece of brake grade flex with #3an on both side, then a 3/16 tube

6.06 1x 10mmx1. double inv flange

6.22 2x #3 jic to 10x1mm male fittings

total 28.17

 

heres a pic, I still need to do a 180 bent on the hard line, whihc will be running off the back of the clutch slave cylinder.

http://www.nwstarquest.com/project-1jz/1jz-clutchline.jpg

 

Hopefully I can get this haltech i have been eyeballing for around 650, but I have yet to hear back from the guy. I need a engine management system preferably haltech for around 650, if anyone knows anyone who has a older e6k for this, and wants to sell it, let me know

[SupraOfDoom]

Cool, I'd like to take on this project in the future..

[Maine_TSI]

i am also considering this swap (1JZ)

and not cause i like JDM or any of the flashy crap in the magazines these days.. im all about getto bang for your buck.. (yeah i like my cars to look good, but if comes down to 4k in motor turbo upgades or some flashing interior and a nice paintjob, you can guess which one ill be spending the 4K on

 

+ the faster you make your car look with bodykits and decals and custom paint, the more you will find yourself pulled over by the police wether you are going fast or not.

 

anyways, back to the swap

i am currently torn between my conquest and my 95 240sx

would love to do a 2JZ-GTE swap in them both

but not $$$ for both (not really enough for one)

 

im thinking i might sell the nissan as it is a popular car these days

 

anyhoo here are my general thoughts.

2jzgte from a toyota aristo (luxurey car) with an auto is

probably gonna be about the least beat up 2 jz you can find

(yeah i know autos arent as nice as standards)

 

but seriously, a 2jzgte with a 6 speed is like $6 or 7k thats way to much money. Most drag cars are autos so i figure autos are good enough unless you are planning on drifting, which im not.

 

the 2jz with an auto is anywhere from 1800 motor, ecu, tranny, to a full clip for 2600 or so if you shop around... they can be as high as 4K if you dont shop around.

so the only chance i have of this swap is if i go with the auto, as its just to much $$$ for the manual

 

after reading up on your swap, i realized that the 1jz is still a pretty good motor. I did some reasearch on it. Its not as stout, the turbos dont feed into each other, and it obviously has less displacement. But all in all it still puts out 280 hp (japan limited)

 

Anyone know if there is a wire splice or something that "unlimits" this amount? i have 2 NSR250's that came from japan, that are limited to 45 HP due to regulations in japan. a few snips later some solder and some tape and an instant 52hp...

wondering if this is something that can be done on the JDM 2jz and 1jz motors-- anyone know?

 

so the 1jz.. i currently can get one with an auto for 590 bucks... im thinking this is a pretty good deal compared to 1800 for the 2jz with an auto.. ive heard of 1jz's being built up with single turbo to like 450 -550 hp.. and quite honestly, i have no business with more power then that in the nissan or the conquest.. sure the 2jz can be built to 700 - 800 on pump gas and well over 1000hp on race juice... but seriously, could any of us actually drive somethign like that? i dunno..

 

i mean, you pay about 590 for a 16G, and i see that new hurrican MPI for like just under 2000 dollars... so lets say you bought them both and the various other stuff you needed to get it all to work.. how much power and reliability will you have? the 1jz is 280 HP all day long. im gussing i could buy it and install if for less then the above amount of $2590..

 

Soooooo, how much money did you pay for your 1jz, and how much have you spent in fabrication costs..

if i do this swap, i will be doing all the work myself (although im not too keen on the wiring)

im hoping the be able to fab up everything i need for 1- 2k

 

any balpark on what you have spent? is the single turbo conversion a must to get it to fit? that will certainly up the $$$ to get it in the car.

im not to keen on those autochrome ebay single turbo kits and would be spending 3 - 4 k on a good kit if i do go that route..

 

any idea on what it would cost to convert the auto to a manual later?

different ECU Needed on the 1JZ? i know it is on the 2JZ.

[smog]

First off, few things about the 2 engines. 1jz is just as stout as a 2jz, I wouldnt hesitate throwing the same 2jz setup ona 1jz and boosting 40lbs. The only real benefit to a 2jz is the .5l of displacement. The jdm 2jz aristo ue a ceramic turbo which are as prone to exploding as the 1jz turbos if you boost much over 15lbs. So consider that. You can actually pull 350rwhp on a 1jz pretty easily off stock twins, although I have seen 370.

 

 

The fast supras running auto are running power glides and what not, the stock auto transmissions are ont that strong.

 

They can be rebuilt pretty strong, butthats of course $$

 

A 2jz can bolt up to a r154 5 speed transmission, so you have that option also, just need the 1jz bell housing I believe.

 

Price wise, you can get an aristo clip for around 2k from venus in sacramento.

 

I paid 1708 shipped to the local freight terminal for my 1jz and 5 speed setup.

 

This swap is a ton of work, and the wiring isnt the prettiestm although not too hard once you learn what everything does, and where its suppose to go.

 

Here is a break down.

 

I paid about 300 to a friend for the fab work on cutting my firewall and transmission tunnel out, and moving it back a little. maybe 2 inches. He also helped me with engine and transmission mounts.

 

I've spent

1708 engine set

150 large fmic

30 misc stiuff

29 clutch line

107 for walbro 255 +kit

116 2jz usdm water pump assembly, thermostat

40 cheap ebay 2jz underdrive pulleys, mainly for the water pump pulley

300 for friends help

------------------------

add it up

 

What I still need to do...

400? Driveline with spicer 1310 joints

100 greddy oil filter relocation kit

200? custom front sway bar

100 misc lines fuel fitler, etc..

160 intercooelr piping and couplers+tbolt clamps

180 griffin 2 row radiator

150 exhaust tubing + muffler

 

Optional stuff I want

 

150 chinese ebay y pipe instant 30+rwhp

single manifold eventually

usdm 2jz 550cc injectors 200

haltech e11v2 1500

clutch 600

ssqv bov

wideband 02

apexi avcr

 

soo its expensive, and a ton of work.

 

Having the first widebody 1jz conquest, priceless :)Cant bea thte sound of a 1jz.

 

I thiknt eh fastest stock 1jz stateside on twins is in a mk2 supra running mid 12s

 

There are cheap chinese made single manifolds, whihc are a decent rip off of a supraforums members design. Can get them for around 250/ 321 stainless or around 500 for the supraforums guys 321 with a 316 flange.

[smog]

As for an update to my progress, should have the car fired up thursday if I can dig up a map sensor, doubt I can get her started without it.

 

Picked up a manual transmission jza70 ecu today, along with a jzx81 fusebox.