FastEddie

As for part numbers it is something you have to research, because they are not available at mitsu any longer. The majority of the strut orings are reusable as long as the struts arent leaking. As long as care is taken when removing the shaft from the housing. As for the weight value of the oil used, depends on what the car is being used for... Non-adj struts i use 30wt to keep them very stiff, as for adjustable 10-20wt since you can adjust the valving. You can get wild with the non-adj and play with the valving but 30wt seems to work very well. Thx for the non critorical response Im happy to spread some secrets to save people $1000s, not all the secrets i know though -Edward

Well if you want me to get technical on you and confuse everyone... First off 98% of struts are charged with nitrogen.. Atoms and molecules are "squishy" not "hard spheres", so the"size" of molecules and atoms depends upon how you measure it. For example, the excluded volume constant -- the 'b' term in the van der Waals equation of state for a gas (P+a/V^2)*(V- = RT , which for He and N2 is 0.02370 and 0.03913 liters/mol, respectively. From this you can calculate a volume and from that a radius, assuming the spherical shape for He and N2 -- not a bad assumption. The result is 340 and 220 nanometers for He and N2 respectively.The interatomic distance for N2 obtained from electronic spectra is 109.7 nanometers compared to 298 nanometers for diatomic He2 obtained from quantum mechanical calculation. Quantum mechanical calculation of the orbital radius of He and N atoms is 291 and 521 nanometers respectively. So the physical size of N2 and He is not a quantity cast in stone. It depends upon how the quantity is arrived at. This admittedly crude (approximate) comparison of the two has the nitrogen molecule at about 3 times the size of a helium atom. Being this size it is very easy for the gas to escape out the edges of a warn or even UNUSED seal. The relation was only for novices to understand what happens.. anyways -Edward

Exactly, even the so called "gas charged" the gas lasts maybe 1-2yrs? then its just oil based, ive rebuilt both 8ways and "gas charged" believe what you want...im the one with 40$ rebuild kits not you sooo go get some crapy kybs hahah anyways i love the opinions on here, -Edward oh yah, as for the "mitsu" units that gas leaked out over a decade ago... rubber --> gas = leak, permable, like the old helium balloon that leaks out over time...

Dunno, ive rebuilt maybe 5 sets of struts on these cars..sooo basic its not funny.. my .02 Let the emails flood.. LOL

Just like all mitsubishi electronics, they are crap.. The cause is that the light for the turn signal is wired to closely to the volt meter gauge, so light turns on gauge goes down..and so on... Like all our gauges they are about as accurate as those crapy gauges you get at k-mart, you know "sunpro" 3 gauges, 15$ LOL LOL Like our temp gauge, H = 300 some degrees...already cracked the head... Boost 14psi = blown motor, mine says bout 10psi when i run 25psi..LOL fuel guage works so on and so forth, no need to swap out alts every couple weeks guys... l8tr -Edward

$500?!?!! JEEZUS less than a $1000 you can get a standalone system and play throw the MAS in the dumpster dunno, LOL -Edward

Looks..well CHERRY!! setup you have going on Old school term, but well we have old school cars Cant describe it differently... Man do i wish i didnt get scammed into my mitsu turbo....oh well, lessons are learned throughout life... -Edward

Point being you cant buy a 16" Tire wider than 265.... Just my view... -Edward

I've been running a 2.5" pipe from the turbo back...No muffler, no cats, hella noise. I love it, shotgun noises from 3k-2k rpm during downshifts. Only reget, i should of got 3" pipe, upgrade is in the future... Looks super sleeper from the rear of the car, just a small 2.5" exit...no SUPER MONSTER CHROME muffler with 12inch tip to scare the cops. Just thought i would put some info....most are scared of straight pipes. -Edward

Oh, man. Give it up... I get a speeding ticket, I dont blame the gas station for selling me gas... So dont blame others for some stupid mistake. "Smells like gas" "Better floor it out make sure its not leaking" "Uh oh, FIRE..." Lots-a-Laughs ;D This thread is outta control should put be in "Just Plain ole BS Forum" -Edward

OK, this is my recent project for a CHEAP mpi setup for the quest. Keep in mind im ONLY using this for FUEL ONLY. This is what i have: '90-94 12 valve geo storm/metro ecms engine wiring harnesses 46lb@33psi (51lb@45psi) fuel injectors (bosch type) 2 bar map sensors all other sensors needed homemade fuel injector pulse controllers This ecm has only a few errors codes/sensors, so i dont think that it would be put into OPEN-LOOP do to a fault code. Basically these parts were FREE I'm still not sure if this will work properly, or if i will have to use a newer GM ECM, that is able to be reprogrammed. Ive tried other DIY EFI sites on the net but there isnt alot of information about this ecm. Some have modified it for all kinds of uses, but im trying just to use it for a turbo 4 cylinder project. Not some custom airplane. Any kind of input would be great. Possibly someone has tried a similar setup elsewhere. -Edward

Machine Shop Work: DONT GOTO THE CHEAPEST GUY IN TOWN. You'll reget it latter........ -Edward

Looks like a good cheaper alt to using a full custom intake manifold with mpi... How does it run now? -Edward '87 TSi

What header are you using? I've had the SFP header for 2yrs, but always had to remove the turbo or valve cover to remove #2-3 spark plugs even with my super small TD06H 20g.... I was planning on a t-61 upgrade, but since the 20g hits the hood already...... -Edward

Nice upgrade, is that a kit or did you make your own brackets, and say used mustang hardware? Edward '87 TSi