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87Black_Stallion

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About 87Black_Stallion

  • Birthday 01/01/1971

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Hitting 88mph!
  • Location
    Chesterfield VA
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    23832
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Atlantic Blue
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. What kind of trades are you looking for?
  2. Why does it look like the wastegate hose tee's into the cruise actuator??? http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/StealthSi/2010-09-29_09-57-00_318.jpg
  3. If thats the way he wants to play it then I guess I won't buy the other parts from him.
  4. This gets me every time http://autospans.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/mustang_chains-Medium-doing-it-wrong-fail.jpg
  5. Too late, already pm'd about it 40 minutes before you replied.
  6. Guess this is the cheaper way than using a fuel cell.....Any thoughts about the larger pump and lines being to big when the tank hits vacuum and over powers the vacuum only gas cap?
  7. Same way. Set it to 12 volts and watch the needle jump. Its easier to do it from the back side of the plug.
  8. Less gas means less weight. The gas will go to the rear of the tank when on the drag strip.
  9. Some users take a led and permanently mount it in the interior and then hardwire it to the plug so it can be monitored while driving. No codes it will be on constantly, so I would advise not pointing it directly at your face as it will be bright at night.
  10. p.s. you can use a analog multimeter if you don't have the led
  11. The easiest and cheapest way to check for ECU error codes is to go to Radio Shack and buy a 12v LED for about $2.50. Once you have your LED, it's best to solder alligator clips onto each wire. I've heard you can go without them, but I've never got it to work without them. Once you have your LED ready to roll, it's time to test for codes. I was surprised as to how easy it was to check for these. Open the glove box, and squeeze the sides to drop it all the way down. Get down and look up and you will see a white/yellowish colored plug with nothing plugged into it. Take the LED and hook the red lead up to the most upper right terminal, and the black lead to the most lower left terminal. *** If you pull the plug off its perch it makes it easier. The black wire with a red stripe is positive and the other corner wire that is solid black is negative*** Once you have done this, you're just about done. Just start the car, or turn the key to the "On" position. If there are any errors, the LED will blink a certain amount of times. The amount of blinks determines the error. For example, 1 blink then a pause, then one blink again, is code #1. 3 blinks, then a pause, then 3 blinks, again, and so on and so forth, is code #3. Note - It will always give you a code 1 (o2 sensor) until the car warms up, and the car must be started to test this. Diagnostic Codes Table Diagnostic Code................Diagnostic Item 1......................Oxygen Sensor 2 .....................Engine Speed Sensor 3......................Airflow Sensor 5......................Throttle Position Sensor 6......................ISC Motor Position Sensor 7......................Coolant Temperature Sensor .....(code 4 is for Cordia/Tredia only.) After you've checked the codes, and fixed whatever was wrong, unplug the battery for a minute to reset your ECU. Hope this helps. Diagnostic Code 1 (Oxygen Sensor) If oxygen sensor signal does not change for 20 seconds or more in feedback range, check wiring harness and connector, oxygen sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 2 (Engine Speed Sensor) While cranking engine, if input of ignition signal is not applied to computer for 3 seconds or more, check wiring harness and connector, ignitor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 3 (Airflow Sensor) On all models, if airflow sensor maximum output is 10 cycles per second while engine is idling, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU. On Cordia and Tredia models. if engine stalls and output rises to 100 cycles per second, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 4 (Pressure Sensor) If pressure sensor output is 4 5 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, pressure sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 5 (Throttle Position Sensor) If throttle position sensor output is 2 volt or less, or is 4 volts or higher for one second or more while engine is idling (idle switch on), check wiring harness and connector, TPS and ECU. Diagnostic Code 6 (ISC Motor Position Sensor) On Cordia and Tredia models, if throttle position sensor output is .4 volt with L switch off, check wiring harness and connector, ISC servo and ECU. On all others, if motor position sensor output is 4.8 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, MPS and ECU. Diagnostic Code 7 (Coolant Temperature Sensor) If coolant temperature sensor output is .1 volt or less, or 4.5 volts or more, check wiring harness and connector, coolant temperature sensor and ECU.
  12. Also check the clutch plunger rod to make sure it didn't slip out and is now cocked sideways making the clutch fork sit out farther keeping the two from coming together.
  13. Have you tried inserting the lower longer bolts and using the force to pull them together? "Not starwars force" the lowers have dowel pins.
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