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kev's restoration - viper blue tsi


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#21 ekstatixx

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 05:34 PM

this thing has come a long way kev, keep up the good work
89 MPI R04 Starion ESi-R--for sale
86 L05 Olive Grey Starion--RIP
87 B71 Atlantic Blue Conquest--for sale soon
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#22 importwarrior

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 08:11 PM

more pics!!! nice write up!

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#23 kev

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:36 AM

Thanks!

I'm moving along pretty good on the project.  Last week I sprayed the undercarraige, interior, engine compartment, and door jambs.   They came out great!   I love this viper blue color, the way it catches the light is unbelievable.   If you climb under the car with a flourescent light, everything just sparkles!  

I'm currently working on spraying the back sides of the doors, fenders, hood, and other cosmetic parts.   I'll finally be starting to assemble this car in a few weeks!  I'll also be ready to spray the viewable body by the end of November.  However, I'm going to wait until warmer weather to spray it.  I'm not going to rush and fight with the weather.   Come on spring!!!  

6 years in the making and I'm finally ready to screw in the first bolt!!!!


kev

#24 importwarrior

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:38 AM

very good! keep us posted!

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#25 Highly Boosted

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Posted 11 December 2006 - 09:54 PM

any more pics!!!!  looking great
No Jesus No Peace, Know Jesus Know Peace                                                               2JZGTE single turbo soon to be 600WHP    griffen rad,AGX adj struts, chrome cobra R's 83 hood, ACT clutch,A1000 pump, poly everything ect, NOS and much much more

#26 helrazr70

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Posted 26 December 2006 - 10:39 PM

That project makes me really appreciate the rust free cars down here. I now see that I have really taken them for granted!

Great job!
Showroom condition black 1989 SHP Conquest 5spd w/44k original miles. Everything is factory except the fluids/filters, tires, battery, and engine belts. It is a true time capsule.

Working on restoring a black 1988 Conquest automatic with 139k miles, tan interior, and in need of TLC. It will be my "driver".

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#27 yoshi

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 10:22 AM

THAT'S AWESOME WHAT YOU HAVE DONE! THAT JUST AMAZES ME! YOU GONNA REMEMBER HOW TO PUT THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER AGAIN? LOL

WISH I COULD GET YOU TO FIX MY FRONT RIGHT FENDER!

CAN'T WAIT TO SEE MORE PICS

YOSHI
86 silver flatty
87 white widebody

#28 kev

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 07:50 AM

Thanks!

Some more current pictures:   Undercarraige, door jams, engine compartment, back of doors/fenders/hood, etc are painted.   The viewable body on the chassis is about 8 hours of work away from being painted (waiting for nice weather in May).   All the plastic parts and small parts have been painted and all orange peel wetsanded down to 3000 grit and waiting to be buffed.   This paint once buffed looks like a mile deep!   There are 6 coats of high solids clear on these parts!!











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#29 Highly Boosted

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 09:04 AM

WOW that thing is coming along good.  Keep up all the good work
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#30 Crazy larry

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 06:07 PM

SWEET 8)
87 Atlantic blue v-8   89 Fiji blue unmolested stock low mileage.  Daily driver 87 Black. 88 white Drift car..SOLD

#31 speed racer

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 07:56 PM

Seeing all that great work makes me wanna go back and totally strip my car to redo it all.Really inspiring and motivating.
   Since I gota welder I am going back and welding in metal where I FG'd it up.A lot of "aircraft remover" and epoxy primer.Not o mention a LOT of photo documentation of how it goes back together.

   Keep the pics coming.                speed racer
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#32 attack vector

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 08:14 AM

Just amazing. I don't have any of the skills to do this stuff, so I'm always in awe of those who possess all of the metal fabrication, and bodywork skills. It truly is an art form.

Amazing work! I can't wait to see this car finished.

#33 BudweiserJason8

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Posted 03 May 2007 - 08:52 PM

Want to do my car?

#34 kev

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 08:32 AM

Hopefully going to start the painting process this week!  

I found a couple dings on the roof that I missed the other day.  How they got there, I have no clue because they weren't there when I had this car on the road!   Very frustrating considering how many hours I put into blocking this car!!!!!     Maybe they happened after blocking but I don't recall anything hitting the roof???  I also found one slight crease in the hood near the passenger side vent scoop (83 hood).   This will be fixed today.

I also re-wet sanded the entire car with 600 grit last week because it has been six months since I did it last.  It's important to paint as close in time as possible from your last sanding because the primer actually oxidizes and will cause lack of adhesion with your paint.  They say to not paint if it has been over 2 days since you sanding - this is hard to hit though when its a hobby project that you work on in your spare time though.  My own rule of thumb is 2 weeks after sanding.    However, wet sanding the car over again after all this work was done is not a very time consuming thing - its pretty quick - took me about 2-3 hours to do this.

I used finishing putty to fix the dings in the roof with a thin coat of self etching primer (rattle can) over the putty.   I don't like using rattle can primers at all but because this is just to dress up a small confined spot, I'm going to use it.  I may regret this when I shoot the base!  I hope not though.  


If anyone is curious, here are the steps I took for paint prep:

1. Sanded all surfaces to bare metal (used a combination of sandblasting, aircraft stripper, hand sanding, and a 7" scotchbrite pad on my angle grinder) btw this was over a two year process for me!!!!. <==all surfaces had to be sanded to a minimum of 80 grit.
2. Layed two coats of epoxy primer - I used grey Southern Polyurethanes epoxy.
3. Performed all putty work OVER the epoxy.  That's correct, over the epoxy.  This is actually the epoxy manufacturer's preference.  It eliminates rust from forming between the putty and base metal which is the cause of bondo lifting.  
4. Re-epoxied over the bondo. <== again SPI grey epoxy.
5. Applied three thick coats of 2K regular build primer. <== used Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) 2K - buff (could use high build primer too)
6. Applied guide coats using 3M rattle can guide coat - works wonders!
7. Spent countless hours blocking every panel.  Some areas I had to apply more bondo - in this case, the 2K was sanded away until epoxy was shown prior to applying bondo).  If bondo work was performed, I re-applied the 2K to the subject panel.   I started with 320 grit wet - blocked - and reapplied one coat of 2K, then did the same with 400 grit wet(note that if putty work was needed, the process was repeated from the start!, you can now start to understand why this has been a multi-year undertaking).  Some people actuall start their initial blocking with 120 dry.  I did try this as well as 220 dry on a few pieces - I'd recommend 220 over the 120 because its very easy to break through the 2K quickly.
8.  Once everything was wet sanded down to 400 grit and I was confortable with the blocking, I layed a sealer coat.  The sealer coat was just SPI grey epoxy reduced 30% (using slow epoxy SPI reducer - always use the correct reducer for the paint you are using - ie don't use PPG reducer and SPI epoxy! - I did this with the one door and it was not a good thing - had to sand it all down and redo).
9.  Then I wet sanded the sealer coat with 600 grit - and I still found a few dings!!!!!!   Very frustrating!   Dings were fixed with finishing putty and spot primed with self-etching primer and wet sanded with 600 grit.


Application of the paint (this was performed on all my small parts; bumpers, spoilers, etc, and will be performed on the body in the very near future).

1. Lay two to three coats of base over the sealer.  Leave 45 minutes between coats for proper flashing - NOTE: spraying the second coat prior to flashing will give your problems (I know from experience).  Letting each coat properly flash will reduce orange-peal, have a better paint finish, and will most importantly reduce the paint you need for full-coverage!  This helps when the cost of base is $175 a gallon minus reducer (I have used 3 and a half gallons of base for this project!!!!!!!!!!!)
2. Let the car sit overnight and wet sand with 1200 grit.
3. Clean off and respray with two more coats of base.
4. Let sit overnight and spray with three heavy coats of clear - I'm using SPI HS clear (high solids).
5. Let sit overnight and dry sand with 400 grit - yes you heard that right, dry sand with 400 grit!  SPI did extensive testing with wet sanding and dry sanding their clears with all different grits and it was determined that the best depth was from the coarse grit papers!!  This still baffles me but I tried it on the small parts and it works excellent!!!   Plus it takes a fraction of the time than wet sanding with a fine grit paper!   I know I will probably get flamed for doing this but I'm telling you - it works!
6. Clean car off and spray three more heavy coats of clear - SPI HS
7. Let dry and start the wet sanding/buffing process in a few days.

Wet sanding/buffing:
1. Wet sand with 1500 grit - wash car off
2. Wet sand with 2000 grit - wash car off
3. Wet sand with 2500 grit - wash car off
4. Buff with wool pad using Presta Ultra Cutting Creme
5. Buff with wool pad using Presta 1500 Polish - new pad
6. Buff with foam pad using Presta 1500 Polish - new pad
7. Buff with foam pad using Presta Spray & Shine - using same pad as the 1500 polish - the spray and shine thins out the polish.
8. The result - totally scratch and swirl free deep deep deep paint!!!  



kev

#35 Highly Boosted

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 09:11 AM

wow  can wait to see the finished pics
No Jesus No Peace, Know Jesus Know Peace                                                               2JZGTE single turbo soon to be 600WHP    griffen rad,AGX adj struts, chrome cobra R's 83 hood, ACT clutch,A1000 pump, poly everything ect, NOS and much much more

#36 livesTSI

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 10:32 AM

:shock:  wow.....thats amazing man!

#37 emagdnim

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 04:06 PM

I'm destined to get my car on a rotisserie for paint.

I'm in love.
What would an angel say, the devil wants to know.

#38 soulja620

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 09:37 PM

Goodness, you are talented... Or did you just go to school for this?

Great job man, more pics?
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#39 emagdnim

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 09:48 PM

Also... I wanted to ask... have you any experience with soda blasting?

Just wondering if i can use my sand blaster to do it.

Thanks man.
What would an angel say, the devil wants to know.

#40 MontyTSI

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 10:29 PM

KEVS the man....



nuff said

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