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"Grace Silver" MPI/06SL2-20G/MegaSquirt


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#121 Turbo Cary

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 12:23 PM

When you're setting base timing and using MS, make sure in the ignition settings to lock timing to 10 so the ECU isn't changing timing. Once base timing is set, make sure to unlock it.

Could be why you had it running ok at first then it stalled and needed throttle to stay running.

Edited by Turbo Cary, 24 September 2018 - 12:24 PM.






#122 Preludedude

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 11:05 AM

Opened up the TB a little and it idled with out me giving it gas.

I let it warm up to 182*, and I set the fixed timing at 10*BTDC and I also had it idling around 13.0 AFR, so the required fuel was 14.0. But I had it idling around 1200rpm warm.

But then it started surging and idling back and forth between 900rpm and 1200rpm, and the AFR was moving back and forth so I logged it and sent it to Scott.

Well, I'm making progress. It now idles pretty decent but still some bugs to work out. I went ahead and bled the brakes and the clutch so once I get this idling issue resolved, I will try to pull it out of the garage.

#123 croquest87

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 12:23 PM

You should test real good for vacum leaks and such before you do any major adjustments.

Edited by croquest87, 01 October 2018 - 12:34 PM.


#124 speedyquest

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 12:32 PM

The first thing that sticks out to me is that rquired fuel isn't something to be adjusting to change your afr's or how the engine runs but instead its for scaling your VE fuel numbers correctly. If you know that already then ignore me lol. And as for surging idle there are a few different ways to tune that but the one I used was to lock my VE table down in the idle range by selecting a large area and setting a fixed number (say 50), and then using the timing table to stablize the idle. This worked even though I'm not running an idle control valve.

Just some thoughts.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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#125 Preludedude

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 06:06 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 01 October 2018 - 12:32 PM, said:

The first thing that sticks out to me is that rquired fuel isn't something to be adjusting to change your afr's or how the engine runs but instead its for scaling your VE fuel numbers correctly. If you know that already then ignore me lol. And as for surging idle there are a few different ways to tune that but the one I used was to lock my VE table down in the idle range by selecting a large area and setting a fixed number (say 50), and then using the timing table to stablize the idle. This worked even though I'm not running an idle control valve.

Just some thoughts.

Yes I am just setting up the hot idle rpm currently, so once I get that set, I won't touch required fuel again...

Scott says the surging is the VE table, so I will be doing what you described with the fixed number....

#126 speedyquest

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 07:16 PM

There are a lot of ways to fix that surging idle and you can totally adjust it with either the VE or timing table. There's no wrong answer I don't think. But I'm sorry if this comes off wrong but again you shouldnt be adjusting your required fuel for anything other rescaling your VE table. So for instance if your numbers are just too small down at idle or if your upper load numbers were too high. You should shoot for around 40-60 in your idle area.

Edited by speedyquest, 01 October 2018 - 07:19 PM.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#127 speedyquest

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 02:01 PM

Maybe this will help you :)    https://www.youtube....h?v=eF_uAxpbzCw

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#128 kev

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 02:13 PM

View PostPreludedude, on 02 September 2018 - 01:31 PM, said:



Either way, Im using PTFE hose and fittings. Kev did say his past experience with PTFE was good and he hadn't had any leak issues...

I bought Summit brand PTFE fittings and Summit brand PTFE braided hose.   We shall see how it holds up....

My issue was at the sealing surface.  The hose to fitting connections were fine.   In the end, they just needed a higher torque than what I originally applied but it was much harder to do this with everything installed.

BUT...my Aeroquip socketless hose lines and red horse fittings are now off the car.  Despite Aeroquip saying their hose is good for fuel, I was getting a substantial amount of fuel odor leaching from them.   I'm now going with PTFE lines and stainless fittings.  



#129 Preludedude

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 03:08 PM

My Summit PTFE fittings and braided line is great. No leaks yet......

#130 speedyquest

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 03:35 PM

View Postkev, on 24 October 2018 - 02:13 PM, said:

My issue was at the sealing surface.  The hose to fitting connections were fine.   In the end, they just needed a higher torque than what I originally applied but it was much harder to do this with everything installed.

BUT...my Aeroquip socketless hose lines and red horse fittings are now off the car.  Despite Aeroquip saying their hose is good for fuel, I was getting a substantial amount of fuel odor leaching from them.   I'm now going with PTFE lines and stainless fittings.  

Well something to note, the non-PTFE is totally ok for fuel so they aren't lying. But its common knowledge that they do allow for a fuel smell. That's why running PTFE is typically recommended because its smell free and its also safe for any fuel including E-85.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#131 kev

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Posted 25 October 2018 - 02:26 PM

I expected a little odor but what I got was pretty unbearable.   But the tank is down and the fuel lines are out now.  Going all PTFE including the suction hose and the fuel return to the tank.  Just brazed on AN fittings to my fuel pickup the other day.  This will let me use e85 like you mentioned.  

preludedude,

Sorry to jump in.  Was just taking a look at your status and noted the fuel line convo.  The car is coming along great!




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