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kev's restoration - viper blue tsi


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#361 kev

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 09:37 AM

Just another quick update.  Fired the car up again this past weekend.  The temperature issue is just the sensor for the stock gauge.  The sds sensor showed me the exact engine temperature and it is running nice and cool.  The factory gauge is reading 3/4 at normal operating temperature with a 180 deg t-stat in the car.     It looks like I'm in search of an OEM sensor, MD001380.

I was able to tune in the idle really nice and a few more parameters on the ECU.   I took it on several trips up and down my driveway (which is long enough to pull thru 2 gears)   I only have the 4 psi spring in the waste-gate as of now.  It spools very fast with no lag at all.  

Have some more issues to deal with.  The brakes are spongy, the steering system needs to be bled better, and I have some type of knock in the right rear (sounds like the coil-over).   All in all, it is running pretty good.   I have about 30-40 minutes of run time on it.  Time to change the oil, bleed the steering/brakes better, and finally install the hood so I can get this thing road worthy.    

Kevin





#362 SA22C

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 11:45 AM

Congratulations Kev.

I've read every detail of your build. The level of attention and commitment you have poured into this car is amazing.

#363 jinx

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 08:50 PM

wishing u back to perfect health

this car is too dam clean to drive!
I'd have done it up with a stock(ish) motor n put it on display in a museum or car shows, with a printout of this build thread, blog, etc.
That badboy mpi would live in a hull, that I didn't care much about(but still "nice")... drive it anywhere, anyhow
just thinkin out loud.... what a project! Respect

#364 kev

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 11:43 AM

It has been awhile since I posted an update.  I'm behind on uploading photos, but figured I'd give a quick status on where I'm at:

The first issue that was really bothering me was an extensive fuel odor in my garage.  I found that my aeroquip socketless fuel lines were leaching really bad.   After some research and even a call with Aeroquip, I decided to ditch these socketless lines and redhorse fittings.....over $200 down the trash.   I swapped to stainless braided PTFE lines with summit racing aluminum fittings.   Not only did it stop the smell, I had zero issues with leaks, etc. upon reassembly even with paying very little attention to assembly torquing.   I'll never buy redhorse fittings again!    The other good thing about this change is that I'll be able to run e85 (inspired by a great discussion when I met StarquestRescue a few months before he passed).    

Because I was really bothered by the fuel odor, I decided to pay more attention to my fuel tank venting system.  Prior, I just had a rubber fuel hose running through a check-valve, exhausted near the filler neck.  I can't take credit for this, for I found it on a post in a mustang boards.  But I created a charcoal canister using some pvc remnants, strainers, barbed fittings, and a charcoal packet:

Simply made a short pipe with threaded caps on the end and 1/4" barbed pipe nipples.  The charcoal was purchased at a local pet supply store for $4.   I spent $6 on this setup due to having the PVC components and fittings already.

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Kitchen/bath strainers off the shelf at Walmart:

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Pulling off the stainless band on the strainers:

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Bending sufficiently to fit in the cap..repeating for both sides

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The charcoal already came in this mesh.  so just tossed it in the tube and reassembled:

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Going further, I found a simple bosch purge valve that operates via the same bosch connector as our injectors.  I believe this was oem on a 2000ish VW Passat.   Not much to hooking it up....power and ground.   For power, I tapped it into my relay system for fuel pump power.   When the pump is running, the purge valve is open.   All other conditions, it is closed:

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For assembly, I added back in the roll-over valve making sure that the ball bearings were down in their correct locations keeping the line open unless the car rolls.   From there I went into the factory overflow valve (allows minor pressurization) and then into the charcoal canister.  Then into the purge valve and exhausted up the filler neck near the fuel fill location.  

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In addition to the fuel mods, I cut off that 5" exhaust tip.....I hated it.....and welded on a single 3" in/dual 3" out stainless tip which also allowed me to raise the exhaust about an inch.  Photos to come soon.

I'm sure I'm missing some more minor things that I did this winter.  Oh, the lower tank in the radiator cracked.  Contemplated replacing the radiator, but I ended up just brazing it.  15 minute fix and it is holding well.  

The current issue is an intermittent 'rpm error' on the sds ecu causing a miss.   I added EMI tape to the hall sensor wire, rerouted the wire, adjusted the position a million different ways, etc. but it is still there.   I called SDS and they are working with me to troubleshoot the issue.   They sent me a new chip to upgrade my ecu from an EM3 to an EM4.  Barry at SDS stated that the new chip has much better filtering capability.  Plus, this allows me to have 02 logging which will aide in tuning.    Unfortunately, when I was adjusting my hall sensor trying to remove the error, it contacted one of the magnets on the crank pulley causing it to crack.   I put the magnet back into position to get the car running again but it needs replaced.  

If the chip doesn't solve the issue, I'll be looking at changing the plug wires to a different type to hopefully minimize emi more.   The other thing Barry mentioned was the digital MSD 6AL box that I have.  He stated that one of his costumers experienced similar issues to me and by swapping the MSD box out to an older analog unit cured the issue.  

I'm hoping to have the chip and magnets fixed this weekend...crossing my fingers that it works.

#365 kev

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 11:54 AM

I realized that I never posted pictures of the whole car.   These were taken prior to the work listed above.  Not the best photos, it wasn't the nicest day.  More will follow.

That interior looks pretty good for still having the 35 year old original seats.

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#366 mbruneaux

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 05:14 PM

that looks phenomenal!
Canterbury, CT
1989 Chrysler Conquest TSi (Project Race Car) Build thread http://www.starquest...opic=147910&hl=
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#367 Josh '88

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 09:24 PM

Wow man, 15+ years in the making, amazing.
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Blue 88, 108k, stock
Red 88, 161k, 207hp/292tq, 14G@18PSI
Blue 88 MPI, 186k, 306hp/412tq (old turbo setup)

My pics of SQC Meets, CLICK HERE

#368 TexasQuest

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 10:06 PM

Gorgeous car!!!
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#369 importwarrior

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 03:23 PM

Attention to detail is off the charts.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#370 kev

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 06:53 AM

Thanks guys!  

I had some good luck this weekend.  I received the new chip from sds and swapped it out in the ECU.  Firing it up, still with the broken magnet, resulted in a 400x improvement.  I still had a very occasional miss resulting in an rpm error.  On Sunday, I pulled the crank pulley and swapped out the magnets.  This seemed to do the trick.  I only had time to fire it up and let it run for about 5 minutes but no misses/rpm errors.  Hopefully the problem is resolved.

I need to torque the crank pulley to spec (I need to raise the car higher to get the torque wrench in there) and do a few odds and ends before I try driving her down the road.    



#371 psu_Crash

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 07:34 AM

Soo close! I can't imagine how excited you must be
'86 Starion, MPI with MS2extra, Ebay To4E 57 Trim (in testing), P&P head, OS SS Valves, Wiseco +.030, ARP head/rod, RPW Roller Cam, Crower Rods,AEM H2O/Meth Injection, Mighty Max CAS 4 Direct Fire Wasted Spark, BSE, Tial 38mm, JDL exhaust mani, HKS turbo timer and EVC3, AEM UEGO, 3" DP into 2 1/2" Dual Exhaust, 85# Delphi's, Magna modded by Chad, Accufab FPR, Walbro 255, D2 Coilovers, GNT Poly Bushings and mounts, Autopower 4 point cage, Funk-Lock, LED Tails and Dome ... etc^4
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87 Valencia Gold TSI, The new Project
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#372 Funky Phil

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 09:57 AM

Awesome! Love the tank vent system!

Edited by Funky Phil, 01 May 2019 - 10:03 AM.

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#373 joshtrup

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Posted 07 May 2019 - 10:43 PM

Where did you get that oil cap?
Rory Trup's Son

1) 1987 Chrysler Conquest Red (Runs)   2) 1987 Chrysler Conquest White (Runs)   3)1969 Ford Mustang 302ci Black Jade (Runs)

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#374 importwarrior

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 05:30 AM

seen similar ones on ebay.

search for Mitsubishi oil cap

https://www.ebay.com...9QAAMXQzB5RDJhh

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#375 kev

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 07:54 AM

No, it was from amazon but now it's no longer there.  Was dirt cheap, ~ $11.

this is the same supplier but this example is a thread on version  https://www.amazon.c...sr=8-1-fkmrnull




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