SFBMX88 Flatty buildStarting in May 2008
Posted 18 January 2018 - 08:50 PM
Had everything bolted up in car to help mitigate distortion during welding. Still have to weld up some support on the bottom ends of
the rack mounts. Picked up some Energy Suspension Poly rack bushings.
Stock length S13 steering shaft connected to rack. Gonna cut this down soon.
Heated the steering shaft to pull everything apart. Ended up doing more to it in January, so see those updates later.
Got the 7/8" clutch master cylinder in. Stuby, so it fits in the factory location easily. Wanted to retain the factory
hardware, so I had to modify a couple things.
Swapped the pushrods out so I could retain the metric threaded clevis. Would probably be a better idea to pick up a new SAE clevis...
Gonna need some trimming
FYI 3/8" and 10mm banjo fittings are interchangeable. M10x1 inverted flare to banjo fitting and 3/8" banjo bolt.
Posted 18 January 2018 - 08:51 PM
Heated up the Starion remote reservoir cover and fit it over the Tilton master. Should be fine. Even the adapters that came with
the master cylinder had a tight interference fit.
Starion clutch pedal is about an inch longer than the GTOs. Fulcrum points are almost the same.
Ill be using a 4 pin brake switch I had from my last Starion to take the place of 2 clutch switches from the GTO. The brake switch circuits
do exactly what the GTO clutch switches do in the clutch pedal up and down positions.
Factory Starion clutch switch(left) removed.
Get in there already!
Clutch set got delivered. Monster Stage 2 w/18lb flywheel - seems to be what a lot of GTO owners are using with great results.
Ill get to installing it when the motor and trans get lined up to go in the car.
OEM friction surface vs Monster
Some flywheels: D16 Honda(top), Starion 240mm(right), Monster(left), OEM LS2(bottom)
Got sick, so with lots of Dayquil and Ricola, I worked on the Evap and fuel level sensor. All going on to satisfy Californias engine
change requirements. The GTO actually has very few emissions components(like 2 less) compared to the F-body LS Camaro/Firebird. Just
the basics, but no EGR or air injection to worry about.
1999 Suburban canister was used for the smaller canister to fuel tank fitting.
Cleaned all the dirt out of the vent valve.
Plenty of room!
Tank and fuel lines out. Will be going to a single 3/8" fuel line when the time comes.
Saved the evap canister mount from the GTO.
Posted 18 January 2018 - 08:52 PM
Evap mount spot welded in then painted.
Not a bad fit.
Gonna try to use the quick connect fittings with the rubber hose.
Time for the fuel level sensor.
Finished the sensor and float in January and didnt even use the measurements I took initially. Had a day or two
to think about it, and came up with a pretty good solution. Ill post that next month, sorry for the cliff hanger ending!
Posted 19 January 2018 - 01:57 AM
Posted 19 January 2018 - 09:04 AM
1989 Chrysler Conquest TSi (Project Race Car) Build thread http://www.starquest...opic=147910&hl=
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (Daily Driver)
2002 Discovery II SE7 (Wife's progeny wagon and awaiting head gaskets)
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 8.1 To tow the two hay burners
Second place is S*** place , eh. - Stéphane Peterhansel
Posted 23 January 2018 - 01:31 PM
Probably not gonna have much time to work on the swap in the coming weeks, as I have to do actual work in the shop, so heres a new year photo dump!
After a day or two of thinking about how to mount the fuel sensor, I drew up a diagram on the bench.
Used a coat hanger as a template for the float rod. The bends have to be just right so the whole assemble will fit through the gas tank sender hole. I didnt initially take this into consideration, and got lucky when installing everything back in.
CAREFULLY bent the factory Starion float rod to match the template. These things are brittle. I actually snapped the two GM rods I had originally wanted to use.
Bracket lined up for a few tacks. The part that held the low fuel level light switch works as a mount for the level sensor.
I used a section of the in tank fuel line off the GTO as a conduit for the sensor wires to avoid any chaffing. The nylon zipties are actually safe to use in fuel according to the material safety data sheet.
Float rod maintained the same plane of travel as stock, so after a lot of checking, the float shouldnt hang up anywhere in the tank.
Soldered the in tank GTO wiring to the factory Starion terminals.
I see now why my car would never show a full tank whenever I filled it up.
Added in some new circuits(evap vent+tank pressure) to the tank sub harness. Will most likely use the newer GTO connector in the trunk area to connect everything. Also replaced all the vapor lines while the tank was down.
New fuel line too! Decided to stick with the Walbro 255 that I had previously installed to fuel the LS2, as the factory GTO pump is rated around 190lph.
Edited by SFBMX88, 23 January 2018 - 04:17 PM.
Posted 23 January 2018 - 02:16 PM
Hoses, wires and tank pressure sensor getting situated. I ended up using a P-clamp to mount the pressure sensor on the tank near the fuel pump.
Built up a mount for the evap vent valve. Went right above the canister. Suburban parts save the day again! Vent hose to valve was a perfect fit. Cut the vent mounting tab of the Suburban bracket and welded it to my tank mount.
Using one of the threaded holes for the original fuel/brake line routing, I mounted up a C5 Corvette fuel filter to feed the single "returnless" LS2. 3/8" feed, 5/16" return to tank, and will have a single 3/8" line to fuel rail. Used quick connect adapters to hook everything up.
Leak checked everything, and its passable for a 1995 and older - leak size less than 0.030". For OBD2 cars 1996+, the limit is a leak through a 0.020" size hole. Ill just have to get the swap done so I can drive it to set all the OBD readiness monitors.
Thanks for all the support guys! Hopefully Ill have this motor in by my next post!
Posted 23 January 2018 - 03:32 PM
Posted 23 January 2018 - 04:22 PM
Posted 12 February 2018 - 12:56 PM
Took some measurements of the intermediate shaft and shortened it while trying to retain its collapsibility.
Because I dont trust my Horror Fright chop saw to make a straight cut, I welded the shaft to a piece of angle steel for stability.
Couple more measurements. Cut two inches out of the female side and used the scraps to help clamp the male side down while welding it.
Cut came out pretty good. Took about an inch out of it. Beveled the ends for the connecting weld.
Cut another 5/8" out by removing this length of splines. I found out later that these splines may have an interference fit with the receiving shaft. The modded piece now goes back in too freely. Im just going to put a tack weld to keep the two pieces together. If I ever wreck, the weld should break easily, and the intermediate shaft assembly should collapse....hopefully.
So the S13 lower column housing fits over the Starion upper housing. Gonna have to figure out a lower column to firewall mount and seal.
Measured the two columns side by side to figure out how long the steering shaft needs to be.
To be continued.....
Edited by SFBMX88, 12 February 2018 - 12:58 PM.
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